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Routes in i. High E

50-50 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Alpine Diversions T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ants' Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bonnie's Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cool Hand Dukes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Directissima T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Directississima T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Enduro Man's Longest Hangout T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Ent Line T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
First Trapps Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Groovy T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Exposure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
In The Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
In the Silly T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Insuhlation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lakatakissima T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lichen Forty Winks T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Missing, But Not Lost T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Nose Drops T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Obstacle Delusion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Ridicullissima T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Silly Chimney T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Sleepwalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Space Invaders T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Teeny Face T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Third Trapps Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Throne, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ursula T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: FA: Felix Modugno, Rich Strang, John Goobic, April 1981
Page Views: 3,142 total, 23/month
Shared By: Mike fenice on Jul 17, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


39 Opinions

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Description

Start in the same place as for Groovy. After 15' bust around the corner and angle up right to a good horizontal. Move up through the obvious crimper section and into the crack. Pull the crux moves ... I say plural because the crux section is more than one move; it's a couple of hard moves linked together. Once you pull up over the bulge, place a critical #1 Camalot; there's no gear after this and you still have some 5.8 climbing that's not all that obvious, up and left to the shared anchor.

Location

40' right of Bonnie's Roof at a left-facing corner capped by a roof (Groovy).

Protection

Small wires and a single set of cams up to a #2 Camalot.

Photos

Daniel Affsprung
New Paltz, NY
 
Daniel Affsprung   New Paltz, NY
 
Adding my 2 cents because I think the route is cool and worth more traffic. BETA AHEAD

I made an onsight attempt of the direct today, following the arete into the face holds, not using the crack at all. It is 10+ or 10d, and the gear is there, but small. One BD .3 cam fits into the pocket you can see from the ground in the middle of the face. The climb probably is pg13 relative to others at the Trapps, but my X4 with no backup (no place to put another piece) held a solid 15 foot fall, from the last crux move. A tricam might also fit there. Long story short, if you want a bouldery, fun, 10+ with somewhat spicy gear, go for it, its all there. Sep 6, 2015
Rob Burnett
Rahway, New Jersey
  5.10c
Rob Burnett   Rahway, New Jersey
  5.10c
I led space invaders direct this past Monday. It seems pg/g with a clean fall, and you can get a green alien to fit nicely in the crack left and up from the corner jug. I think it's probably 10c and it's definitely good fun! More people should climb this great little route!!! Aug 26, 2015
Pawel Janowski
WA
  5.10c
Pawel Janowski   WA
  5.10c
Right, Groovy Direct and Space Invaders Direct are two different lines. Confusion is added by the Gunks App which shows Space Invaders Direct as Space Invaders.

Any consensus on the grade for Space Invaders Direct? I felt it easier than 10d. Gear is pumpy to place and a bit spaced but very solid and the fall is clean. Jun 15, 2015
Anthony Baraff
Paris, France
 
Anthony Baraff   Paris, France
 
Groovy "direct" and Space Invaders "direct" have nothing to do with one another. I've done them both. Groovy "direct" goes directly up through the Groovy roof. Space Invader's direct version goes right of this through a series of pockets and crimps. I've led the Groovy version but only done the Invaders version on TR. I don't think the gear on the Space Invaders direct version is particularly good. Aug 4, 2013
kenr  
Variation? Perhaps need to get clear on "Space Invaders Direct" versus "Groovy Direct". Williams guidebook gives a direct 10a variation for Groovy. Other climbers have found it too -- see Comments under Groovy .

So do we have two names for the same line, or is there a separate "Space Invaders Direct" line in between the Groovy Direct variation and Space Invaders proper?

The direct variation I did was fairly juggy and fun, seemed like 10a. I would not have guessed there was space on the rock for another distinct line between that and Space Invaders 10d proper.

. (If there's only one direct line, then my feeling is that it makes more sense to call it "Groovy Direct", because if think of it as a variation of Space Invaders than you get the odd result that the "direct" variation at 10a is easier than the main route at 10d.) Aug 4, 2013
I top roped the "direct" version today. Pumpy crux for a few moves with one good rest in the middle. Gear possible in crux, but I'd say it goes at 5.10ish PG. Oct 22, 2012
akline
  5.10d
akline  
  5.10d
JSH-
i checked with a very prominent local who told me that someone had top-roped it before as "space invaders direct" May 13, 2012
JSH

JSH    
Akline, none of my guidebooks give a name to that set of moves. Jan 16, 2012
chris_vultaggio
The Gunks
 
chris_vultaggio   The Gunks
 
Some nice movement, committing moves above gear but the crux protects. Cool moves at the start too. Oct 5, 2011
akline
  5.10d
akline  
  5.10d
what is the face to the left of this? anybody know? you do the crimper section on space invaders, then instead of moving right to where the climber in the picture is, you go strait up on more small holds. gear wasn't too good... Sep 24, 2011
bheller
SL UT
bheller   SL UT
After I climbed this and read the William's description, I couldn't stop saying "exquisite." That is the adjective he chose to describe the climbing on this one... I offer an adjective... forgettable. Sep 18, 2010