Avg: 2.5 from 17 votes
|Type:||Trad, 80 ft|
|FA:||Jack Mileski and Todd Ritter|
|Page Views:||2,159 total · 36/month|
|Shared By:||John Gassel on Sep 4, 2015 with 2 Suggestions|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Even if you get to the GT from a neighboring route, the final 5.8 pitch of this route is a good option for topping out if High E is crowded. Also, it's a logical finish to Ridicullissima or Directississima.
P1 (5.10b): Start as for Doubleissima, up the right-hand 5.8 crack for about 40 feet to a ledge. Then move right about three feet to a small tree and a vertical crack system. Go pretty much straight up the steep face until you reach the roof. The guidebook instructs you to step left and join Doubleissima for a few feet below the roof, but I found this was not necessary. I was able to keep the line completely independent of Doubleissima. Once at the roof, go through the obvious notch about 5 feet to the right of where Doubleissima breaks the roof (crux, 5.10b). Continue straight up the juggy, steep face (5.8) to the GT Ledge.
P2 (5.8): From the GT, start at a crack and get some gear in above you before you pull up on the upper face. The crux of this route comes at you not long after you gain the face, but there are options for gear all through this section. It can be a bit pumpy through this section. Climb mostly straight up. When you near the top of the cliff, skirt just left of a tree (or more likely, a hole where a tree used to be) then jog right a few feet near the very top. There used to be a great tree right at the top, but it's gone now. The best option is probably using the High E rap station as an anchor. If you do, try to use it in such a way that you don't block others from getting on rappel safely.
The pitch above the GT ledge is located about 12 feet right of the final pitch of Directissima, at a weakness in the roof above. It's about 2/3 of the way from the arete to the rap station. There's a spot for a bomber yellow C4 directly under the route.
Rappel the High E bolted line.