Type: Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Jack Mileski and Todd Ritter 1978
Page Views: 3,591 total · 34/month
Shared By: John Gassel on Sep 4, 2015 · Updates
Admins: Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

The first pitch gets no stars in the guidebook (and isn't included in the Gunks App) but it is excellent! It features the same kind of steep climbing as Doubleissima and Ridicullissima. Watch out for loose rock; there is a little bit, but it is easily avoided.

Even if you get to the GT from a neighboring route, the final 5.8 pitch of this route is a good option for topping out if High E is crowded. Also, it's a logical finish to Ridicullissima or Directississima.

P1 (5.10b): Start as for Doubleissima, up the right-hand 5.8 crack for about 40 feet to a ledge. Then move right about three feet to a small tree and a vertical crack system. Go pretty much straight up the steep face until you reach the roof. The guidebook instructs you to step left and join Doubleissima for a few feet below the roof, but I found this was not necessary. I was able to keep the line completely independent of Doubleissima. Once at the roof, go through the obvious notch about 5 feet to the right of where Doubleissima breaks the roof (crux, 5.10b). Continue straight up the juggy, steep face (5.8) to the GT Ledge.

P2 (5.8): From the GT, start at a crack and get some gear in above you before you pull up on the upper face. The crux of this route comes at you not long after you gain the face, but there are options for gear all through this section. It can be a bit pumpy through this section. Climb mostly straight up. When you near the top of the cliff, skirt just left of a tree (or more likely, a hole where a tree used to be) then jog right a few feet near the very top. There used to be a great tree right at the top, but it's gone now. The best option is probably using the High E rap station as an anchor. If you do, try to use it in such a way that you don't block others from getting on rappel safely.

Location Suggest change

P1: Start as for Doubleissima.

The pitch above the GT ledge is located about 12 feet right of the final pitch of Directissima, at a weakness in the roof above. It's about 2/3 of the way from the arete to the rap station. There's a spot for a bomber yellow C4 directly under the route.

Protection Suggest change

Pro is good throughout the route, but the rock quality leaves a little bit to be desired. Not dangerous though.

Rappel the High E bolted line.