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Routes in i. High E

50-50 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Alpine Diversions T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ants' Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bonnie's Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cool Hand Dukes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Directissima T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Directississima T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Enduro Man's Longest Hangout T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Ent Line T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
First Trapps Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Groovy T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Exposure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
In The Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
In the Silly T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Insuhlation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lakatakissima T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lichen Forty Winks T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Missing, But Not Lost T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Nose Drops T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Obstacle Delusion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Ridicullissima T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Silly Chimney T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Sleepwalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Space Invaders T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Teeny Face T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Third Trapps Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Throne, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ursula T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Jack Mileski and Todd Ritter
Page Views: 1,195 total, 44/month
Shared By: John Gassel on Sep 4, 2015 with updates
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Description

The first pitch gets no stars in the guidebook (and isn't included in the Gunks App) but it is excellent! It features the same kind of steep climbing as Doubleissima and Ridicullissima. Watch out for loose rock; there is a little bit, but it is easily avoided.

Even if you get to the GT from a neighboring route, the final 5.8 pitch of this route is a good option for topping out if High E is crowded. Also, it's a logical finish to Ridicullissima or Directississima.

P1 (5.10b): Start as for Doubleissima, up the right-hand 5.8 crack for about 40 feet to a ledge. Then move right about three feet to a small tree and a vertical crack system. Go pretty much straight up the steep face until you reach the roof. The guidebook instructs you to step left and join Doubleissima for a few feet below the roof, but I found this was not necessary. I was able to keep the line completely independent of Doubleissima. Once at the roof, go through the obvious notch about 5 feet to the right of where Doubleissima breaks the roof (crux, 5.10b). Continue straight up the juggy, steep face (5.8) to the GT Ledge.

P2 (5.8): From the GT, start at a crack and get some gear in above you before you pull up on the upper face. The crux of this route comes at you not long after you gain the face, but there are options for gear all through this section. It can be a bit pumpy through this section. Climb mostly straight up. When you near the top of the cliff, skirt just left of a tree (a bit awkward) then jog right a few feet near the very top. There used to be a great tree right at the top, but it's pretty dead now (2015). The best option is probably using the High E rap station as an anchor. If you do, try to use it in such a way that you don't block others from getting on rappel safely.

Location

P1: Start as for Doubleissima.

The pitch above the GT ledge is located about 12 feet right of the final pitch of Directissima, at a weakness in the roof above. It's about 2/3 of the way from the arete to the rap station. There's a spot for a bomber yellow C4 directly under the route.

Protection

Pro is good throughout the route, but the rock quality leaves a little bit to be desired. Not dangerous though.

Photos

John Gassel
Boston, MA
 
John Gassel   Boston, MA
 
Awesome, thanks for the update Seth and Dana. I'll have to check it out next time I'm there. May 1, 2017
SethG  
As usual, Dana knows what he's talking about. I did pitch one of Lakatakissima (5.10b) today, and I thought it was great! Very similar in style to the other climbs on this wall. Good steep climbing followed by an awesome roof problem. I have submitted a description of pitch one to improve this page. Apr 8, 2017
The first pitch is not of the quality of Directississima or Ridiculissima, but I have done it several times and it is worth at least two stars. Nov 15, 2015