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Routes in i. High E

50-50 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Alpine Diversions T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ants' Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bonnie's Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cool Hand Dukes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Directissima T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Directississima T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Enduro Man's Longest Hangout T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Ent Line T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
First Trapps Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Groovy T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Exposure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
In The Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
In the Silly T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Insuhlation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lakatakissima T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lichen Forty Winks T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Missing, But Not Lost T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Nose Drops T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Obstacle Delusion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Ridicullissima T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Silly Chimney T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Sleepwalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Space Invaders T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Teeny Face T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Third Trapps Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Throne, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ursula T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 130 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dave Loeks and Claude Suhl (1973)
Page Views: 2,585 total, 22/month
Shared By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 24, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

This is a great climb. It's an excellent choice if you have someone who can easily follow 5.9 but still needs some easier climbs to lead because P1 is only 5.4, but nice climbing.

P1 - Climb the flake or the face just right of the flake to the large ledge and a belay below the 2 overhangs (5.4).

P2 - Climb up to the right side of the first overhang, then step up and left (scary, crux) to a stance below the second overhang. Step left again, then climb a short red/orange corner to another stance and diagonal up and right to the pine tree belay/rap.

Location

About 150 right of High Exposure, at the left side of a 15-foot high, right-facing flake, just left of the Alpine Diversions crack, and just right of Third Trapps Chimney.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack.

Photos

We did not have small springy things back in the day. If you were short, the length between placements was often more 'R' than 'pg'. Jun 17, 2014
Pawel Janowski
WA
  5.9
Pawel Janowski   WA
  5.9
By far one of the best 5.9 at the Gunks and one of my favorite lines period: a cool roof problem followed by thought-provoking, sustained 5.8ish moves to the top. Much more interesting than its sister, Insulhation.

I don't understand the PG13 rating though. The entire climb is super well-protected with cams and c3's. G in my book. Jun 8, 2014
See comments for Teeny face RE Martine face. Apr 26, 2014
Simon Thompson
New Paltz, NY
  5.9
Simon Thompson   New Paltz, NY
  5.9
Easily linked both pitches with two ropes and running out most of the first pitch. The crux is pretty standard gunks 5.9 steep overhang and face. Overall the last 50ft are somewhat sustained. One of my favorite routes! Nov 24, 2013
divnamite
New York, NY
  5.9 PG13
divnamite   New York, NY
  5.9 PG13
For me, the crux is route finding. First pitch is simple enough. The first roof of the second pitch is harder than a 5.9 and protection after the roof isn't as easy to place.

I climbed what Chris Duca described, the shallow red corner on the left of the arete, because of all the chalk marks. It was definitely harder than a 9. Jun 3, 2013
wonderwoman  
 
I didn't think this was PG-13. Maybe PG? May 1, 2013
Alex Mitchell
Cincinnati, OH
 
Alex Mitchell   Cincinnati, OH
 
Such a great route! A per pump fight. Not really any hard moves just super overhung. I did not think it was that runout. I was able to get gear every 8 feet or so. Just a bit hard to place gear because of the pump. Oct 29, 2012
I don't remember a shallow arete that was/seemed to be 5.10, but that doesn't mean you aren't right. But now that I think of it, I suppose the first roof on the second pitch (mentioned in a previous post) was a bit hard for 5.9 Apr 20, 2011
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
  5.9+ PG13
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
  5.9+ PG13
It's been a while, Dana, but I recall a shallow corner close to the arete that took some mighty small brass wires. pulling the roof seemed way more difficult than the neighboring 5.9, Insuhlation. And from what I recall, doesn't one of the variations go at 5.10?

Apr 18, 2011
I recall pulling pretty hard around the first roof of the "second" pitch... It's a pretty big roof, and I traversed to the right hand side of the roof... nevertheless, I was slapping at some marginal/ok holds... I would put it at 5.10.. (I can't think of any 5.9 that compares). Apr 5, 2011
Hi Chris,

Could you explain? The original start is 5.10 and the way the climb is commonly started now is 5.9. But either you choose, the lines converge fairly quickly and it's hard for me to imagine any 5.10 up there.

Cheers,

Dana Apr 2, 2011
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
  5.9+ PG13
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
  5.9+ PG13
I feel like it is pretty easy to get off route on this one and land yourself on some 5.10 climbing. Anyone agree?
Mar 31, 2011
Fat Paul
Central, NJ
 
Fat Paul   Central, NJ
 
Power through the first roof at the small horizontal crimp and up the runout face above. Move left on the clean orange face below a nice horizontal crack. Aim for the bush at a thin seam and up to the pine tree belay. Small cams needed to protect this route. A new favorite! Nov 24, 2009