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Routes in i. High E

50-50 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Alpine Diversions T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ants' Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bonnie's Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cool Hand Dukes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Directissima T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Directississima T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Enduro Man's Longest Hangout T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Ent Line T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
First Trapps Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Groovy T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Exposure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
In The Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
In the Silly T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Insuhlation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lakatakissima T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lichen Forty Winks T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Missing, But Not Lost T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Nose Drops T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Obstacle Delusion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Ridicullissima T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Silly Chimney T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Sleepwalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Space Invaders T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Teeny Face T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Third Trapps Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Throne, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ursula T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: 1972 Art Reidel and Greg Lee
Page Views: 994 total, 23/month
Shared By: dragons on Jun 8, 2014
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

Climb a thin ramp, which diagonals up and right to a large pebbly block and forms a roof overhanging the corner (the corner is where the climb In the Groove starts). Continue up over this block a few feet, then move to the right a few feet around a short corner. You'll see a chimney. Climb to the top of the chimney, passing a small tree about halfway up. At the top, exit right onto a small prow. Stand up, and climb approximately straight up to the rap station, moving left or right to wherever the holds and pro look good.

When I climbed it, the large rap station oak tree appeared to be hollow and dead. It was covered in old tat and had rap rings. It may be wise to find a different rap tree, or head south to the Ursula rappel.

Location

About 50 ft to the right of Ursula. Look for a free-standing triangular pinnacle about 10 feet tall, close to the cliff face. Just right of that you'll see a thin ramp diagonaling to the right, up the cliff.

Protection

There are good opportunities for pro almost everywhere. It gets a little more difficult to find good spots once you exit the chimney, but the climbing is fairly easy here. Standard Gunks rack.

Photos

There's only one tree up there now - and it's alive - so Imagine the infamous "dying tree" is gone. Also, the pitch is now a good 125' long rather than the 100' given in the guidebook (and here). A 60m rope still suffices for the rap. Sep 18, 2016
1738  
the rap tree on the top of this climb is still dead and very hollow. I continued up fifteen feet to another tree on top of the cliff.

would not recommend a belay or rappel from the dead tree, seems like it may let go any day. Aug 24, 2015