Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: 1972 Art Reidel and Greg Lee
Page Views: 1,302 total · 22/month
Shared By: dragons on Jun 8, 2014
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures 2019 Details

Description

Climb a thin ramp, which diagonals up and right to a large pebbly block and forms a roof overhanging the corner (the corner is where the climb In the Groove starts). Continue up over this block a few feet, then move to the right a few feet around a short corner. You'll see a chimney. Climb to the top of the chimney, passing a small tree about halfway up. At the top, exit right onto a small prow. Stand up, and climb approximately straight up to the rap station, moving left or right to wherever the holds and pro look good.

When I climbed it, the large rap station oak tree appeared to be hollow and dead. It was covered in old tat and had rap rings. It may be wise to find a different rap tree, or head south to the Ursula rappel.

Location

About 50 ft to the right of Ursula. Look for a free-standing triangular pinnacle about 10 feet tall, close to the cliff face. Just right of that you'll see a thin ramp diagonaling to the right, up the cliff.

Protection

There are good opportunities for pro almost everywhere. It gets a little more difficult to find good spots once you exit the chimney, but the climbing is fairly easy here. Standard Gunks rack.

Photos

1738  
the rap tree on the top of this climb is still dead and very hollow. I continued up fifteen feet to another tree on top of the cliff.

would not recommend a belay or rappel from the dead tree, seems like it may let go any day. Aug 24, 2015
There's only one tree up there now - and it's alive - so Imagine the infamous "dying tree" is gone. Also, the pitch is now a good 125' long rather than the 100' given in the guidebook (and here). A 60m rope still suffices for the rap. Sep 18, 2016