Type: Trad
FA: Mike Schneider
Page Views: 5,848 total · 53/month
Shared By: Dana Bartlett on Apr 16, 2010
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


80 Opinions

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Access Issue: 2019 Peregrine Closure Details
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappeling Details

Description

Halfway up the second pitch of Insuhlation, traverse straight left on good holds to a short, right-facing corner. Make a reach to a huge horizontal, then climb the face (crux) straight to the bolted rap station.

Most people would consider this to be a variation to Insuhlation rather than a separate route, but who cares; the climbing is great.

Location

Go right past the High Exposure buttress to the start of Insuhlation.

Protection

Standard 'Gunks rack.

Photos

Suburban Roadside
Abovetraffic on Hudson
Suburban Roadside   Abovetraffic on Hudson
It is a whole route. From the ground, boulder up the face of the flake to the ledge. Continue up yellowish face through the double overhang to the stance follow shallow corner right to the steep face. Make the reach to the horizontal, and climb the clean boulder problem-like face.

This was very 80’s three or four pieces of gear but always at the hard bits. With today’s small cams it must be G/PG.

edit: - 4/12/18 - Doh!
(Frank,no not this route)At the time
I was going out with Marteine Suhl, the niece of Claude - who was on the FA of Insuhlation-.Thus the play on her name matching up with the small orange face at the top (Mar) Teeny Face, next to her uncles route !
It had never been climbed before I cleaned out a ton of loose rock. 2 huge standing flakes, that were "teeter-totter" stacked & never climbed past took some "persuading" . That spot is now the short shallow "sentry box"
Go climb it and reward yourself with a Gimlet or a Martini Apr 26, 2014
Eugene Kwan  
 
One of the best routes at the gunks. Not sure why it's not a classic. A yellow camalot is very useful after the second crux. Bring extra small cams. Can descend with one 60 m rope with two rappels. Jun 3, 2014
Pawel Janowski
WA
  5.10a
Pawel Janowski   WA
  5.10a
Very beautiful face climbing. Jun 8, 2014
frank minunni
Las Vegas, NV
frank minunni   Las Vegas, NV
I remember doing this thing with Patty Matteson around 82 or 83 after doing insuhlation. Both are really good. Nov 12, 2015
Systematic  
 
It's not a classic because the start is poorly protected 5.4 climbing and the good stuff is high up. It's a great route.
Best done going up the middle roof, closest to the arete, at a left facing notch. This keeps the grade more consistent and the line more independent of Insuhlation.

  • *Gear beta**

Small cams from #00 to #1 metolius + green alien
#2 camalot bomber for the high crux... looks like a long ride. Oct 31, 2016
artem Vasilyev
New York, NY
  5.10a
artem Vasilyev   New York, NY
  5.10a
X/R rated start for about 30-40 feet if you lack a truly large cam (which pretty much everybody does at the gunks) - not bad but definitely don't slip. Found my first solid piece of gear at the end of the first pitch (5.4). Link the pitches.

Great gear at both cruxy bits on the face, bring your c3's and brassies. Bomber #2 protects the high crux - if you mess up the beta get ready for some great air-time. Amazing face climb, really enjoyed it.

Anchor for second rappel is super old and crappy - would recommend just doing one rappel if you have a single 70m. Aug 7, 2017
cjdrover
Watertown, MA
 
cjdrover   Watertown, MA
 
There is a decent #4 placement halfway up the first pitch. That said, it's 5.4 and if you are contemplating leading the 5.10a above the 5.4 should not be an issue. Overall a great route, but just link the pitches.

A standard 70 m rope will just barely not make it for the rap. If you have a 70 on the longer side... maybe. Ours did. Sep 14, 2017
Nicolas Falacci
Pasadena, CA
Nicolas Falacci   Pasadena, CA
I thought I was on Insuhlation when I did this.

Awesome orange rock.

In this photo, you can see that clean orange face.



Oct 23, 2017