Avg: 2.1 from 154 votes
|Type:||Trad, 80 ft (24 m)|
|FA:||John Waterman and Al Rubin, 1970|
|Page Views:||5,431 total · 32/month|
|Shared By:||Chris Duca on Aug 18, 2007|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Mostly an arete/slab climb, Sleepwalk does throw some pleasant vertical face traversing at the climber in the first 20 feet of the climb.
Commence this route by climbing the face about 30' to the left of the massive Ants' Line corner, just left of the tree. Traverse out left to the arete, turn the arete and balance/technique your way up the less-than-vertical face, staying within 5 feet of the arete for the majority of the pitch. End at the shared chain anchors for Ants' Line - you'll lower out over Ants'.
An alternative start is to climb the face on the same side of the arete as the rest of the route.
You can continue up from the top of P1 in several ways; the fault straight above the route is Cool Hand Duke (5.8). From the clifftop, walk right to rappel over Bonnie's Roof or left to rappel the High E line.