Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: John Waterman and Al Rubin, 1970
Page Views: 4,796 total · 31/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Aug 18, 2007
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

This often-overlooked route deserves more traffic, especially due to its proximity to various Gunks classics, and for its place on the low end of the difficulty scale.

Mostly an arete/slab climb, Sleepwalk does throw some pleasant vertical face traversing at the climber in the first 20 feet of the climb.

Commence this route by climbing the face about 30' to the left of the massive Ants' Line corner, just left of the tree. Traverse out left to the arete, turn the arete and balance/technique your way up the less-than-vertical face, staying within 5 feet of the arete for the majority of the pitch. End at the shared chain anchors for Ants' Line - you'll lower out over Ants'.

An alternative start is to climb the face on the same side of the arete as the rest of the route.

You can continue up from the top of P1 in several ways; the fault straight above the route is Cool Hand Duke (5.8). From the clifftop, walk right to rappel over Bonnie's Roof or left to rappel the High E line.

Location

30 feet to the left of Ants' Line, on the face. (Note: don't continue straight up the face, as this is Ent Line, PG/R 10+)

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos