Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: John Waterman and Al Rubin, 1970
Page Views: 4,114 total · 29/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Aug 18, 2007
Admins: JSH

You & This Route

113 Opinions

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Access Issue: 2019 Peregrine Closure Details
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappeling Details


This often-overlooked route deserves more traffic, especially due to its proximity to various Gunks classics, and for its place on the low end of the difficulty scale.

Mostly an arete/slab climb, Sleepwalk does throw some pleasant vertical face traversing at the climber in the first 20 feet of the climb.

Commence this route by climbing the face about 30' to the left of the massive Ants' Line corner, just left of the tree. Traverse out left to the arete, turn the arete and balance/technique your way up the less-than-vertical face, staying within 5 feet of the arete for the majority of the pitch. End at the shared chain anchors for Ants' Line - you'll lower out over Ants'.

An alternative start is to climb the face on the same side of the arete as the rest of the route.

You can continue up from the top of P1 in several ways; the fault straight above the route is Cool Hand Duke (5.8). From the clifftop, walk right to rappel over Bonnie's Roof or left to rappel the High E line.


30 feet to the left of Ants' Line, on the face. (Note: don't continue straight up the face, as this is Ent Line, PG/R 10+)


Standard rack.


Michael G
Michael G  
The guidebook says to stay to the face just left of the arete, but using the arete at certain points seems to make sense. Any thoughts? Jun 16, 2008
Chris Duca
Downingtown, PA
Chris Duca   Downingtown, PA
Though it's been a few years since I've been on Sleepwalk, I don't recall using the arete at all. Though it probably wouldn't be considered offroute if you did, nor do I think you would be missing any spectacular piece of climb. Jul 29, 2008
I think this is a great "breaking into the grade" 5.7! Easyish climbing, great gear, no route finding issues, ends at bolts. Swain's guide, by the way, says to use the face and the arete, FWIW. I don't think you're violating any rules if you use it, although it really isn't necessary.

I also did the Cool Hand Dukes variation for the second pitch and it was a fun jug haul with very good rock. I think the "questionable" rock mentioned by the earlier poster is in the low angled bit before the real business of this pitch. Easily avoided. Oct 27, 2009
The flake that is shared with Ent's Line is loose - better not use it for pro. My cam expanded it and walked. There is also a loose triangular block at the arete right where you finish the traverse. I ran out the traverse, but that block spooked me. Jul 19, 2010
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
I enjoyed this climb, I agree it's a great "breaking into the grade 7". I also enjoyed Cool Hand Dukes, and I didn't see any loose rock. It has lots of jugs.

I'm not sure how to get off this climb. We did not use the rings/slings to the right; we actually down climbed to the tree and rapped to the Ants' line chains. Apr 9, 2011

Gail, would it have been difficult to walk over to Bonnie's, Ursula, or the High E raps? I haven't done Cool Hand Dukes, so I don't know. Apr 11, 2011
Josh Smethers
Malvern, pa
Josh Smethers   Malvern, pa
Great for the grade with a few thoughtful moves on the slab section after you turn the arête. Jul 7, 2014
P1 may be a good "breaking into the grade" pitch, but IMO that's because it's no harder than 5.6. Sure, you can make it harder by skipping holds, but the reality is there are good holds for every move if you just look a couple feet to either side. Jul 24, 2014
Rob Griffiths
Rob Griffiths  
This is now one of my favorite Gunks routes and would probably be an uber classic if it had more of the Gunks "exposure." It is a great 5.7ish route and was pretty much a face climb/arete. I think i pulled on a few holds of the arete but more or less climbed the face straight up to the ants line anchor. When linked with Cool Hand Dukes (5.8), this is fantastic and runs ~170 ft. in a fairly straight line, albeit angling right. Be ready for a little more "pump" if linking the pitches, as CHD doesn't let off until the tipsy top. The gear is outstanding the entire route although a few smaller cams (C3 red and yellow) helped me at the very top of CHD. The only questionable rock was easily avoided and was found in transition between pitches. Nov 11, 2014
M Bageant
Los Angeles, CA
M Bageant   Los Angeles, CA
Nice climb. Though the traditional start is the shared beginning with Ent's Line, I would recommend starting around the corner and traversing in from left to right. It protects just as well and is probably a bit easier.

For a beginner leader this helps avoid a weird situation where you're placing gear around the arete and potentially creating rope drag. Plus, if there are people on Ent's Line, you won't have to deal with them until you get to the anchor. Apr 18, 2017