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Routes in i. High E

50-50 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Alpine Diversions T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ants' Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bonnie's Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cool Hand Dukes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Directissima T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Directississima T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Enduro Man's Longest Hangout T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Ent Line T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
First Trapps Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Groovy T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Exposure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
In The Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
In the Silly T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Insuhlation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lakatakissima T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lichen Forty Winks T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Missing, But Not Lost T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Nose Drops T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Obstacle Delusion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Ridicullissima T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Silly Chimney T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Sleepwalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Space Invaders T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Teeny Face T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Third Trapps Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Throne, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ursula T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: P1: Hans and Bonnie, 1949. P2 var: Chris Moratz, 2000
Page Views: 2,251 total, 23/month
Shared By: JSH on Oct 5, 2009
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


36 Opinions

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Description

P1: Climb the crack, corner, and face until you can move left around the arete. Follow the path of least resistance up the ledges above to a tree with rap rings in an alcove. 5.5, 90 ft.

P2: Original: thrash and swim up the gully to the cliff top. 5.5
Var: Climb the white face on the left side of the alcove behind the belay tree. Follow sharp rock, meandering a bit past a short white blunt arete, and eventually up to the GT and cliff top. 5.4

Rap from the first belay with one 60m rope. From the clifftop, either rappel Obstacle Delusion or the High E rap line, which is ~100 ft. to climber's left.

Location

Right of the alcove where Obstacle Delusion and Alpine Diversions start; left of Lichen 40 Winks and Sleepwalk. The route starts where a crack rises from the ground, and the rock forms a ceiling with the sloping ground immediately below, also just below a right-facing corner.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos

Dan.G. yorlig
Queens, NY
 
Dan.G. yorlig   Queens, NY
 
P1: The first pitch crux is not straight forward. Definitely took a second to figure out the moves, though an enjoyable crux in the mid 5 range once you find the holds.

P2: I will note that as of this past weekend, the white face is totally covered in lichen. Don't let this intimidate you. This pitch was super fun and the lichen made a bit of an adventure. In my opinion, this 2nd pitch was more fun than the second pitch of Ursula. It is fairly similar jug hauling/ladder climbing, though the holds are not as obvious as those on Ursula. This effect was probably exaggerated by the amount of liken on the route. This said, the lichen added a gnarly "adventure element". P2 is a nice long vertical climb with great holds and solid gear.

the P2 gully variation was way overgrown and did not look like anyone has climbed it in a good long while. Bring a machete if you are really hurting to send this one... Jul 5, 2016
First half of P1 was fun, and I didn't think the gear was too bad if you had small cams, but then it just turned into ledges with pine needles and rock with a little bit of green lichen with less interesting climbing. I think I ended up off route on P2, going through a bunch of spiderwebs and dirtiness. At one point I looked down an saw where I was probably supposed to go but didn't want to down climb. If you go about 50 ft to climbers right you can find the Ursula rap. Sep 16, 2012
PG gear in places, but still easily protected. The crux on pitch 1 is a committing move for the new leader with smeary/stemming feet to get up and over the small overhang. BUT lots of good smaller pro can be placed under the flake just before the crux, and it's a beautiful move that gives the 5.5 leader a good challenge that is safely protected. Keep moving and don't hang out on the crux.

Note: At P1 crux, even though it seems easier to move right around the small overhang further out onto the face, you will find fewer holds and create potential for swinging fall. You can safely go directly up the overhang or only slightly right of it - the holds are all there, and you won't see them until you make the move above the small hang. So reach up, find your feet and GO FOR IT!

Second pitch is equally interesting with good gear - from belay ledge, facing the rock, start a little left behind the big pine tree with the rap rings and it's more committing off belay ledge, but easily to protect and fun. Good "teaching" route for the new leaders. Watch the large loose block on the second pitch. May 23, 2010
JSH

 
JSH    
 
The latest book lists this as G/PG - I felt it was on the more-serious side of PG, and would not put a newer leader on it. The crux involves several slabby face moves, a good couple of feet above and to the side of gear. Oct 5, 2009