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Insuhlation

5.9, Trad, 2 pitches,  Avg: 3.1 from 68 votes
FA: Dave Loeks, Claude Suhl, 1973
New York > Gunks > Trapps > i. High E
Access Issue: 2019 Peregrine Closure Details
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappeling Details

Description

1. Climb the large, right-facing flake to a ledge, move right to a large pine tree and belay at the bolted rap station. 60 feet, 5.4

2. Go easily to a large roof that is 20-25 feet or so above the tree. Once over the roof, climb a shallow open book and a crack system that leads to a 20-foot headwall. Up the headwall (crux) to a ledge, then diagonal up and left, simple climbing, to the bolted rap station. 70 feet, 5.9

Two raps to the ground with a 60m rope. 

Location

Go the base of High Exposure, then walk right for 150 feet or so and look for the large, obvious, right-facing flake.

Protection

Standard 'Gunks rack.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Josh Byford nearing the top.
[Hide Photo] Josh Byford nearing the top.
The start of Insuhlation
[Hide Photo] The start of Insuhlation
Working up the face.
[Hide Photo] Working up the face.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Chris Duca
Downingtown, PA
 
[Hide Comment] In my opinion, this is by far one of the THE best 5.9s the Gunks has to offer! Mar 21, 2011
Dana Bartlett
CO
  5.9
[Hide Comment] I'll definitely second the previous comment. Mar 27, 2011
[Hide Comment] The "headwall" at the top of the climb is the crux: Move slightly left onto the gorgeous orange face. Rapping/lowering with a single 70m rope leaves you 20+ feet above the ground - rap/lower to the tree on the ledge and then again to the ground. Feb 24, 2012
Dana Bartlett
CO
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Perhaps I have a 70 that's longer than 70; we made it to the ground in one rap. Mar 20, 2012
divnamite
New York, NY
  5.9 PG13
[Hide Comment] I feel this route is way way easier than Obstacle Delusion. Excellent climbing with great pros. Jun 3, 2013
Suburban Roadside
Abovetraffic on Hudson
[Hide Comment] The crux described is part of the route I led after cleaning, and called Martinie face (Teeny Face), after Martine Suhl, the niece of Claude Suhl, who did the first ascent of Insuhlation, which crosses under the face to the right to continue up the steep corner.a different route. Apr 26, 2014
[Hide Comment] We had a 70 meter rope, but could not lower the leader all the way to the ground. Maybe like 15 - 20 feet short. The line was pretty straight. On rappel, you probably can get a little closer to the ground, but I still don't think it will reach it. Apr 28, 2014
Dana Bartlett
CO
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Some 70s are longer than others, I suppose. We had room to spare when we abseiled from the tree. May 1, 2014
Pawel Janowski
WA
  5.9
[Hide Comment] This climb is nice but somewhat boring (typical Gunks juggy overhanging crux) compared to the sibling Obstacle Delusion. The roof is quite easy and crux definitely at the top.

60m got us to the intermediate tree rappel station, 70m gets you to the ground. Jun 8, 2014
[Hide Comment] Don't get confused for Teeny Face. The app has the lines clearly drawn. Sep 23, 2014
[Hide Comment] The description is spare (in Dana's customary fashion) but since he mentions the shallow open book I think he is correctly describing Insuhlation not Teeny Face. Sep 24, 2014
Dana Bartlett
CO
  5.9
[Hide Comment] The description is spare (in Dana's customary fashion) but since he mentions the shallow open book I think he is correctly describing Insuhlation not Teeny Face.

As usual, Seth is correct. Sep 24, 2014
Kalil Oldham
Brooklyn, NY
 
[Hide Comment] RAPPEL BETA:

I think this rap must be around 38 meters. Here's why: I've rappelled this line from the tree at the top several times with an Edelweiss 9.5mm 70m rope, even after I cut about a foot off each end, and it's close but it gets me down. However, last month, my new BD 9.6mm 70m left us with both ends about 10 feet off the ground, weighted. I've noticed some confusion about this in the comments as well. So, I measured the BD rope in my apartment with a yardstick and I got 65m. I sent the BD rope back and they measured it to 72m. Reluctantly, I trust their measurement more than my own. So, the rappel from the tree is more than 36 meters, and I'm estimating it's about 38m, making my older Edelweiss 9.5mm around 76 meters with stretch. I can only conclude, as other commenters have suggested, that some 70m ropes are longer than others. And some are longer than 70 meters. Watch your ends! Jun 20, 2017
losbill
  5.9
[Hide Comment] So, I measured the BD rope in my apartment with a yardstick and I got 65m. I sent the BD rope back and they measured it to 72m.

Kalil please refer to Annex 2 Informative Annex on measuring ropes in this document.

The standard came to my attention last year. I had borrowed a light weight 60 meter line for an alpine adventure from a friend. I had the foresight to lay it out in the driveway and measure it before the trip. There was a rap on the planned route that would require all of 200 feet. It came to 184 feet.

I mentioned the event to a friend who is on the UIAA committee and he pointed out the standard. The measurement standard seems a little weird to me. But it will very likely account for the "shortage" in you line. My friend indicated that manufacturers for the most part err on the long side of rope length to reduce the number of inquires and returns associated with apparent "short" ropes. Jun 20, 2017
[Hide Comment] Bill you laid a rope down in your driveway?? Car oils are bad for ropes. I'm just saying, you are going to die. Jun 21, 2017
losbill
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Hey Seth we all have to go sooner or later. Hope your neck is feeling better. See you down there soon. Jun 21, 2017
chewtoynj
NJ
 
[Hide Comment] This route, and Teeny Face, are two fantastic routes that get so little hype. Great rock, great moves, great gear, and a beautiful ledge to belay from with views of the second pitch of High E. Every time I lead it, it makes me feel like a hero. Sep 1, 2017