Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappeling
Please use the bolted rappel anchors to descend whenever possible.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
1. Climb the large, right-facing flake to a ledge, move right to a large pine tree and belay at the bolted rap station. 60 feet, 5.4
2. Go easily to a large roof that is 20-25 feet or so above the tree. Once over the roof, climb a shallow open book and a crack system that leads to a 20-foot headwall. Up the headwall (crux) to a ledge, then diagonal up and left, simple climbing, to the bolted rap station. 70 feet, 5.9
Two raps to the ground with a 60m rope.
Go the base of High Exposure, then walk right for 150 feet or so and look for the large, obvious, right-facing flake.