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Routes in h. The Arrow Wall - CCK

Amber Waves of Pain T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Andrew T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Android-Moby Dick link-up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Annie Oh! T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arrow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
CCK Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Cold Turkeys T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Crack' N Up T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Deep Lichen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Diana T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Verschneidung (Easy V) T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Erect Direction T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Face to Face T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Feast of Fools T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hans' Puss T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hawkeye T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jim's Gem T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Keep on Struttin' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Last Will Be First, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Limelight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lost and Found T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Man's Quest for Flight T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Moby Dick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Modern Times T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moonlight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
No Glow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nurse's Aid T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Proctor Silex T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Proctoscope T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Quiver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Red Pillar T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Silhouette T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Smilin' the Hard Way T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Steep Hikin' T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Step Lively T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Strolling on Jupiter T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Supper's Ready T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Three Doves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Vultures T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Traverse of the Clods T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Twilight Zone T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c C1
Unholy Wick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Updraft T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wop Stop T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Willie Crowther, Gardiner Perry, 1960
Page Views: 19,847 total, 139/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Feb 21, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


434 Opinions

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Description

This is one of those destination climbs at the Gunks. There are also other classic moderates in the same area (Three Doves, Annie Oh!, and Limelight).

The Arrow access trail is just past some white rocks on the left side of the carriage road, at an open area with a good view of the valley. This is about a 13-min. walk from the Uberfall, and a 9-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road.

At the cliff, spot the huge left-facing corner of Easy Verschneidung (Easy V) on the right; scramble up on ledges about 20' left of Easy V to start.

P1: Follow face and crack systems up and slightly left to a ledge system under a roof. You will notice a set of rap anchors to your right. A bit runout towards the top. 5.6, 100'.

P2: Angle right through the notch in the roof. After a few hard tugs, you will be below a beautiful white slab. Follow this slab, passing 2 bolts on the way to a final headwall. The crux reach is protected by a final bolt. 5.8, 100'. Bolts on this pitch were replaced in 2015 (see comment).

Rap twice with a single 60M rope from bolt anchors.

70M rope beta: You can combine both pitches for a great 215' lead.

Protection

Standard Rack.
Medic741
Red Hook, New York
 
Medic741   Red Hook, New York
 
Used a single set of cams up to #2 and a set of tricams with C3's down to the red one. Felt this protected the climb fine. If I were to double up I'd bring and extra .75 and .5.

Thank you to the FA climbers who decided to bolt this route. Definitely wouldn't have been able to enjoy this climb without these bolts. Great ethic here too, the distance between bolts really followed ADK/Gunks ethics and the clipping stances were really well thought out. Sep 30, 2015
Turned out the bolts were rotten, presumably caused by galvanic corrosion in a mixed-metal bolt and hanger combination. Today Christian Fracchia of the Gunks Climbers' Coalition replaced them.

Video of rotted bolts on Facebook.

Jul 9, 2015
Meg Grega
Holtsville, NY
Meg Grega   Holtsville, NY
Really beautiful white face after the roof on p2. The crux is super fun. I love the mantle up to the crimp. Arrow is one of my favorite 5.8s in the area. Jun 18, 2015
Will Cohen  
 
I personally find the section between the two bolts to be the crux. I had used my small gear already and had nothing to proctect the section between the bolts and was feeling decently run out by the time I clipped the second bolt. This section is what I feel is 5.8 face climbing. Apr 3, 2015
Benjaminadk
San Pedro, California
 
Benjaminadk   San Pedro, California
 
I'm convinced the crux on p2 is 5.6 for me. Of course -- I'm 6'4. The crux is the overhangs off the GT ... secure but a fall low down would be bad. Nov 11, 2014
ebmudder
Bronx, NY
ebmudder   Bronx, NY
Just onsighted this as my first 5.8 lead yesterday...very exciting. My partner belayed p2 from the rap anchors on the right side of the ledge...this is a nice location if you clip to the top ring of the anchor, since you can nestle into the shade under the roof and you're not in the way of anyone coming down...however you're pretty much out of sight/earshot of the leader.

[spoiler beta]
If you start up the corner right of the notch there's no good pro, but if you then step left about 4' there's a left-facing flake at eye level that takes a 00 cam nicely...just enough to get you under the notch.

At the crux I tested the potato chip with my left hand and decided to go right, which definitely was easier...will follow the other beta next time. Aug 4, 2014
Bolted anchors were not there when the route went in and they are there for rapeling the route not as an anchor from which to belay. The first pitch comes up onto the GT ledge left of where the notch in the overhang is. Many climbers set a gear anchor in the right facing corner by Limelight or right in the middle of the face to belay from. From any of those spots the notch is up and right. The best way to do Arrow is to forgo the belay all together and run it in to one long rope stretching pitch. Great 200+ feet of climbing.

With respect to the grade of the crux being 10.b, not even close. I think that is more a matter of not being accustomed to Gunks climbing. There are a number of very solid and secure ways to do that crux at 5.8. If you want a feeling for what Gunks 5.10 thin face is try Never Neverland. Jul 31, 2014
percious
Bear Creek, CO
 
percious   Bear Creek, CO
 
The description says "Angle right to a notch." I think this is confusing. From the rap anchors, you can either step LEFT along the GT and then head up directly under the notch, which is pretty well protected, or you can hop over your belayer's head and angle LEFT up to the notch, I don't think this is as well protected, but others may comment otherwise.

When the going get's thin, there is 1 relatively new pin and 2 3/8ths bomber stainless bolts that protect through the crux. I'd say the crux goes at 5.10b, but I'm a lot closer to Yosemite than the local Gunks climber. Either way, it's protected well. You can also get a small cam in between the bolts.

Left or right at the final bolt? You decide when you get there!

-chris Jul 29, 2014
Josh Smethers
Malvern, pa
  5.8
Josh Smethers   Malvern, pa
  5.8
What a great climb with a fun and happy first pitch. Crux is well protected with a bolt at your chest. Left or right of the bolt are both committing moves on lead. Jul 7, 2014
micah richard
Litchfield, Connecticut
micah richard   Litchfield, Connecticut
Led this onsite, Wow, what a great route! One of my first 5.8 gunks leads. Ape like moves at the roof notch down low were really fun, however, getting up to it risks a bad ledge fall. the lower angle section above is a bit run out, but reasonable. The business comes at the excellent white rock at the top once you reach the pin. Spent quite a while studying the moves at the second bolt, ended up pulling through just to the left. Real exciting! That move is no doubt 5.9, but with a bolt at chest level, who cares? You can bail and escape to the left on a ramp to the top if you can"t do the last move. Jun 23, 2013
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.8
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.8
Great line. Did the same thing AntinJ did...back and forth between the two options and finally settling on the left side. I'm 5'6" and this was a somewhat balancy and reachy move for me. Feet were the key...got 'em up as soon as possible. My 6' friend has no trouble reaching the upper crimp without much effort...SOB! :-) May 1, 2012
TarikaM
New York, NY
  5.7+
TarikaM   New York, NY
  5.7+
I love this climb! I think it's really rated what it is for just the one move by the final bolt, and the climb gets easier towards the right of it, but is more fun on the left. The rest of the climb is smooth, and wayyy easier. If you're anything like me (slighter built female), you're more likely to have a harder time with say a sustained 5.6 like the second pitch of High E, than to struggle too much with this. That's not to say it isn't a tricky move! Oct 18, 2011
Justin Compton
Lafayette, CO
  5.8
Justin Compton   Lafayette, CO
  5.8
Fun to do at night with a headlamp! Jul 19, 2011
Both of my seconds opted for right of the bolt after much consternation. I went to the left and didn't feel like it was too bad.

Note to 6-footers and up, you can reach the key crimp from the rest where you clip the bolt, though it'll be a stretch. Once you've found a comfortable hold for your right foot, it's not too much of a problem to move up to the jug above.

I don't recall three bolts; I remember a piton, then two bolts before the anchors. There is a fairly long (20' ?) runout a little after the roof but before the piton, though it is only 5.5-5.6 terrain. There are two good spots for pro above the roof but after that is the runout. Jun 20, 2011
Zachary W
San Francisco, California
 
Zachary W   San Francisco, California
 
Don't plan on aiding past the bolt or relying on it for a top rope. Climbed the route today and saw TWO bolts total. This and the Dick Williams guide both seem to suggest there are three. The bolt at the crux is completely rusted, protruding, and the hanger spins freely. I paced back and forth on that ledge for quite a while before pulling through on the left for the onsight.

Really awesome climb though. Just don't test that bolt. Nov 15, 2010
JohnWesely
Red River Gorge
 
JohnWesely   Red River Gorge
 
Way overrated. Three Stars for the first pitch, two for the second. Aug 6, 2010
Tradiban
  5.8
Tradiban  
  5.8
I linked both pitches with a 60m and rapped once with 60m doubles. Pretty cruiser not much gear needed. May 20, 2010
rgold
Poughkeepsie, NY
rgold   Poughkeepsie, NY
Left of the bolt is where the original route went. I've climbed that a few different ways. I think they are all 5.9, and no one would even think twice about calling them 5.9 if the bolt was ten feet below the move rather than in top-rope position. But the difficulty really does boil down to a single move.

This is one of many examples of the persistence of historical grading at the Gunks---the Arrow started out at 5.8 and that's where it stayed. Art Gran, in the first Gunks guide, seemed to have a bit of a thing about assigning high grades to routes done by climbers he didn't think were "good enough" to climb at that level; grading by climber rather than by intrinsic difficulty. The most famous example of this is a short, poorly protected lead called Jacob's Ladder (led by Phil Jacobus way back in the day; you could probably count the onsight leads in the intervening fifty years on one hand). Gran fell off on a top rope but still rated it 5.8 because that was his judgment of Phil's "ability." Enough good climbers fell off on top-ropes that that particular historical grade did not persist; the route is now understood to be 5.10.

Gran seemed to have it in for Willy Crowther, who made the first ascent of the Arrow, so 5.8 it was, and 5.8 it remains. With a top rope from the bolt, it really doesn't matter too much what the rating is.

Enjoy. May 13, 2010
Jason Antin
Golden, CO
  5.8
Jason Antin   Golden, CO
  5.8
I spent what felt like an eternity shuffling back and forth across that small ledge trying to decide which side of the bolt to pull the move on...classic! Aug 10, 2009
Justin Dansby
GA
  5.8
Justin Dansby   GA
  5.8
Brian is right. The key foothold definetly makes the difference. You can't totally see it once you commit to the crimp but if you miss it this climb will feel grades harder. Oct 31, 2008
Brian
North Kingstown, RI
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
To the right of the bolt is 5.8. To the left is 5.8 Gunks. ;-) Cheating beta for left move... Bring your right foot up almost directly below the bolt where there is a small foot placement. Mantle off your left hand which is palm down on the obvious hold to your left. Squirm up and reach the crimper with your right hand. Oct 6, 2008
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
By "full 5.8 grade," do you mean solid 5.10? Oct 3, 2008
Left of the bolt gives you the full 5.8 grade. Right of the bolt is a bit easier.

Trust your feet ! Oct 2, 2008
Great route! Just did it 3 days ago. The crux at the final bolt took me four tries. I tried the left twice and didn't make it, then went over to the right and checked out the moves there. The chest high bulge made it feel awkward. The left seemed to me like the only choice, most likely because it's one of the hardest things I've climbed. I put my left hand on the "potato chip," my right hand on the low crimper and my right toe on a little knee-high chip and levered up, lifting my left foot up to a small slopey ramp, then slapping my right hand high for an edge. Then I could bring my right foot up to a solid, almost palm-sized ledge and I was home. Great. Jul 5, 2008
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.8+
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
  5.8+
When I led it, I went right; if I recall correctly, I found a small sidepull to the right and rocked up on that to reach the ledge. Since I haven't made the move to the left that Guy describes, I can't say which is harder.

Afterward, I did ask Richard Goldstone (my partner for the day) if I'd been off route by going right. He told me he and some other long-time Gunks climbers got on Arrow one day to see how many different ways there were to make the crux move; they came up with 26. Heh!

JL Jul 1, 2008
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
If you go slightly left of the final bolt, there is key crimp. If I remember correctly, you mantle and rock up for a long reach with the right hand. You can see the crimp in the first photo on this page. It is directly under the rope. Jun 30, 2008
Michael G  
 
Can anyone give an definitive answer to this question: Left or Right at the final bolt? To the right feels easier to me, but maybe I'm missing the "key crimp" when I make the move to the left... Jun 30, 2008
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.8+
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
  5.8+
This is a spectacular route! Onsighting it was the highlight of my 07 Gunks trip. Sep 28, 2007