Avg: 3.5 from 436 votes
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Willie Crowther, Gardiner Perry, 1960|
|Page Views:||19,975 total · 138/month|
|Shared By:||Guy H. on Feb 21, 2006|
DescriptionThis is one of those destination climbs at the Gunks. There are also other classic moderates in the same area (Three Doves, Annie Oh!, and Limelight).
The Arrow access trail is just past some white rocks on the left side of the carriage road, at an open area with a good view of the valley. This is about a 13-min. walk from the Uberfall, and a 9-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road.
At the cliff, spot the huge left-facing corner of Easy Verschneidung (Easy V) on the right; scramble up on ledges about 20' left of Easy V to start.
P1: Follow face and crack systems up and slightly left to a ledge system under a roof. You will notice a set of rap anchors to your right. A bit runout towards the top. 5.6, 100'.
P2: Angle right through the notch in the roof. After a few hard tugs, you will be below a beautiful white slab. Follow this slab, passing 2 bolts on the way to a final headwall. The crux reach is protected by a final bolt. 5.8, 100'. Bolts on this pitch were replaced in 2015 (see comment).
Rap twice with a single 60M rope from bolt anchors.
70M rope beta: You can combine both pitches for a great 215' lead.