Avg: 3.2 from 199 votes
|Type:||Trad, 210 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Dave Ingalls, Al Rubin, Richie Petrowich, 1968|
|Page Views:||8,469 total · 61/month|
|Shared By:||Tabo on Oct 3, 2006|
DescriptionA beautiful three-star route next to Annie Oh!, Limelight, and Arrow.
P1: 80 feet of classic climbing. The guide says to start on either side of large block; the right side seems easier. Wander up the face above, passing one roof by a notch on its left then moving right under the next small roof. Make a few cruxy moves up the face above, then follow low angle climbing back left to the belay ledge. Use one of several big trees to belay.
P2: 80'. More great climbing! From the tree, follow the path of least resistance to a ledge with a smaller tree ~40 feet up and left. There's not much pro if you go straight up (but it's more fun!); otherwise, head right and then back left for easier terrain and better pro. You'll find a nice move just below a pin, then a couple of thin moves after the pin to a nice rest, under the roof. Traverse right , then up the diagonal crack/notch to the chains. This pitch wanders a lot - beware of rope drag!
The 2nd pitch has some great moves -- it's one of the nicest pitches at the Gunks.
Rappel: Two 60m ropes get you within a few feet of the ground (with stretch - watch the ends). Alternatively, a single rap brings you down to the first pitch tree, and will keep you out of the way of other climbers.