Avg: 3.5 from 116 votes
|Type:||Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches|
|FA:||P1: Dick Williams & Dave Loeks, 1973 P2: Dave Loeks & Walter Bauman, 1973|
|Page Views:||10,004 total · 57/month|
|Shared By:||Mike fenice on May 24, 2006|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
P1: The number of variations you can climb to the GT are endless, but this one is well worth doing. Start 30' left of Moonlight. Climb straight up and past a small right-facing flake to some face holds. Move a bit right on the face to hit the belay tree (gear is thin here so watch your step). 5.8, 160'.
P2: Walk right 10' and climb the orange face to a pocket, then straight up past a small overhang to a stance. Diagonal up and left (5.7, PG-R) to a bolt with a good stance, traverse left into the notch at a fixed pin in the roof. Pull the roof on strenuous holds and belay below the right-facing corner. 5.9, 50'.
Use long runners if you combine the next pitch:
P3: Move up the obvious corner to the overhang and step right, 5.9, 40'.
Pitches 2 & 3 can be combined if you are careful about rope drag in the beginning.
Descent: Three rappels from bolted anchors over No Glow will get you to the ground with a single rope.