Type: Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches
FA: P1: Dick Williams & Dave Loeks, 1973 P2: Dave Loeks & Walter Bauman, 1973
Page Views: 10,625 total · 57/month
Shared By: Mike fenice on May 24, 2006
Admins: RJ B, Morgan Patterson

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details


This is Gunks must-do, especially for climbers breaking into the grade (but see comments below - Admin.).

P1: The number of variations you can climb to the GT are endless, but this one is well worth doing. Start 30' left of Moonlight. Climb straight up and past a small right-facing flake to some face holds. Move a bit right on the face to hit the belay tree (gear is thin here so watch your step). 5.8, 160'.

P2: Walk right 10' and climb the orange face to a pocket, then straight up past a small overhang to a stance. Diagonal up and left (5.7, PG-R) to a bolt with a good stance, traverse left into the notch at a fixed pin in the roof. Pull the roof on strenuous holds and belay below the right-facing corner. 5.9, 50'.

Use long runners if you combine the next pitch:

P3: Move up the obvious corner to the overhang and step right, 5.9, 40'.

Pitches 2 & 3 can be combined if you are careful about rope drag in the beginning.

Descent: Three rappels from bolted anchors over No Glow will get you to the ground with a single rope.


A light single rack will do