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Routes in h. The Arrow Wall - CCK

Amber Waves of Pain T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Andrew T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Android-Moby Dick link-up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Annie Oh! T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arrow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
CCK Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Cold Turkeys T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Crack' N Up T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Deep Lichen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Diana T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Verschneidung (Easy V) T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Erect Direction T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Face to Face T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Feast of Fools T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hans' Puss T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hawkeye T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jim's Gem T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Keep on Struttin' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Last Will Be First, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Limelight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lost and Found T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Man's Quest for Flight T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Moby Dick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Modern Times T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moonlight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
No Glow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nurse's Aid T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Proctor Silex T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Proctoscope T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Quiver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Red Pillar T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Silhouette T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Smilin' the Hard Way T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Steep Hikin' T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Step Lively T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Strolling on Jupiter T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Supper's Ready T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Three Doves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Vultures T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Traverse of the Clods T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Twilight Zone T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c C1
Unholy Wick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Updraft T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wop Stop T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: P1: Dick Williams & Dave Loeks, 1973 P2: Dave Loeks & Walter Bauman, 1973
Page Views: 8,238 total, 59/month
Shared By: Mike fenice on May 24, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

This is Gunks must-do, especially for climbers breaking into the grade (but see comments below - Admin.).

P1: The number of variations you can climb to the GT are endless, but this one is well worth doing. Start 30' left of Moonlight. Climb straight up and past a small right-facing flake to some face holds. Move a bit right on the face to hit the belay tree (gear is thin here so watch your step). 5.8, 160'.

P2: Walk right 10' and climb the orange face to a pocket, then straight up past a small overhang to a stance. Diagonal up and left (5.7, PG-R) to a bolt with a good stance, traverse left into the notch at a fixed pin in the roof. Pull the roof on strenuous holds and belay below the right-facing corner. 5.9, 50'.

Use long runners if you combine the next pitch:

P3: Move up the obvious corner to the overhang and step right, 5.9, 40'.

Pitches 2 & 3 can be combined if you are careful about rope drag in the beginning.

Descent: Three rappels from bolted anchors over No Glow will get you to the ground with a single rope.

Protection

A light single rack will do
Eric Bluemn
Worcester, MA
  5.9+ PG13
Eric Bluemn   Worcester, MA
  5.9+ PG13
Like many of the routes on this part of the wall, p1 has some thoughtful moves above your pro with potential ground-fall in places. Keep your head up, or hook up with p2 from the GT ledge. P2 and P3 have generally good pro and absolutely stellar climbing. Aug 20, 2017
M Bageant
Cambridge, MA
M Bageant   Cambridge, MA
Found it stout but surprisingly good. P1 was some thoughtful routefinding and interesting movement. P2 had a great variety of moves, including some excellent cranking. P3 felt much easier than P2 with only a few technical moves in the corner right off the belay. It is tough to link them while avoiding rope drag and the P3 belay is a nice spot, takes small cams/med nuts for an anchor, so next time I'd say split them.

Shorties beware, if your reach is ~5'5" or below, this climb will be somewhat harder for you. Big reaches between horizontals with thin gear below your feet on P1, and one big reach at the section with the bolt on P2 will reward the tall.

On P1, keep an eye out for the bomber 0.5 Camalot sized pocket off to the left about 30' below the top; it's one of the last bomber gear placements before a big but easy runout and I found myself climbing a little to its right and almost missing it.

The "PG-R" section of 5.7 before the bolt is runout but not committing. Apr 18, 2016
On pitch 2 good gear is in a pocket about 10 feet up, and then more good gear in horizontals at the overhang. If you can sling everything long on this it makes for a fantastic link up of pitches 2 and 3 into one great long pitch of 5.9. May 9, 2015
Pawel Janowski
WA
  5.9
Pawel Janowski   WA
  5.9
P2-P3 linkup makes for a super-classic climb that reminds me of Arrow only harder: steep roofy section followed by fun technical climbing in beautiful white rock and a fun memorable finishing move.

Didn't feel the middle section of P2 was very run out (purple C4 sits well after the first little roof) though a bit strenuous to place gear. Nov 18, 2013
lucander
Stone Ridge, NY
  5.9+ PG13
lucander   Stone Ridge, NY
  5.9+ PG13
THE 5.9 if you ask me. First pitch is fun and long, second pitch throws more at you in 50 feet than most any other climb, and the last move is a stinger! Mar 7, 2012
It's a fine route, although not one I'd recommend for "breaking into the grade." It starts interesting right off the ledge, and there are only a few placements before the bolt at 30'. The move above the bolt is tricky for 5.9, and there's no fixed pro (as of 11/2006) on the strenuous traverse -- you have to hang on to place a cam.

The third pitch is not sustained, but its last moves give one more crux. Nov 27, 2006
Mike fenice
Boulder, CO
 
Mike fenice   Boulder, CO
 
Obstacle Delusion is 10b and Bonnie's Roof Direct is a one-move wonder. Not to mention Bonnie's is completely different climbing then Keep on Struttin'. Both climbs protect very well and are safe. May 25, 2006
Breaking into the grade? What grade are you talking about? This climb is (a) somewhat spicy and (b) pumpy as hell...

If you want to break into the 9+ grade, go throw yourself at Bonnie's Roof Direct or Beatle Brow Bulge or Obstacle Delusion... better protected climbs in my opinion... it's been awhile since I have climbed this, but I found it quite hard... May 25, 2006