Type: Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches
FA: P1: Dick Williams & Dave Loeks, 1973 P2: Dave Loeks & Walter Bauman, 1973 Struttin’ in the Moonlight: Matt Santisi & Michael Bridge, 2023
Page Views: 11,850 total · 54/month
Shared By: Mike fenice on May 24, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio

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Description Suggest change

This is Gunks must-do, especially for climbers breaking into the grade (but see comments below - Admin.).

P1: The number of variations you can climb to the GT are endless, but this one is well worth doing. Start 30' left of Moonlight. Climb straight up and past a small right-facing flake to some face holds. Move a bit right on the face to hit the belay tree (gear is thin here so watch your step). 5.8, 160'.

P2: Walk right 10' and climb the orange face to a pocket, then straight up past a small overhang to a stance. Diagonal up and left (5.7, PG-R) to a bolt with a good stance, traverse left into the notch at a fixed pin in the roof. Pull the roof on strenuous holds and belay below the right-facing corner. 5.9, 50'.

Use long runners if you combine the next pitch:

P3: Move up the obvious corner to the overhang and step right, 5.9, 40’.

Pitches 2 & 3 can be combined if you are careful about rope drag in the beginning.

Struttin’ in the Moonlight: A direct variation to pitch 2.  Pull past the bolt and gear up the horizontal.  Instead of traversing hard left go straight up using crimps and side pulls.  A big reach gets you to the mega jug.  A blue camalot can be placed out left to protect the final move gaining the ledge.  Finish on Moonlight. 5.11a, 90’.

Descent: Three rappels from bolted anchors over No Glow will get you to the ground with a single rope.

Protection Suggest change

A light single rack will do