For next few days, REI will DOUBLE your gift to the Access Fund - up to $65,000. Donate Now!
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in h. The Arrow Wall - CCK

Amber Waves of Pain T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Andrew T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Android-Moby Dick link-up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Annie Oh! T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arrow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
CCK Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Cold Turkeys T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Crack' N Up T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Deep Lichen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Diana T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Verschneidung (Easy V) T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Erect Direction T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Face to Face T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Feast of Fools T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hans' Puss T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hawkeye T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jim's Gem T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Keep on Struttin' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Last Will Be First, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Limelight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lost and Found T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Man's Quest for Flight T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Moby Dick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Modern Times T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moonlight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
No Glow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nurse's Aid T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Proctor Silex T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Proctoscope T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Quiver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Red Pillar T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Silhouette T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Smilin' the Hard Way T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Steep Hikin' T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Step Lively T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Strolling on Jupiter T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Supper's Ready T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Three Doves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Vultures T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Three Vultures Direct T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Traverse of the Clods T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Twilight Zone T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c C1
Unholy Wick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Updraft T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wop Stop T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Ivan Rezucha, Paul Potters
Page Views: 6,500 total · 60/month
Shared By: Denis O'Connor on Jul 16, 2009
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


40 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: 2018 Peregrine closure: Wisecrack to Scary Area Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Route Closure Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Traverse of the Clods is among the most interesting and unusual routes in the Gunks. It’s thoughtful, balancy, exposed, not too strenuous, not R-rated—yet seldom climbed.

TOTC begins on the GT ledge, on a 15’ terrace to the left of where the first pitch of Andrew meets the GT ledge. The final pitch of Hans' Puss starts from this same terrace.

The pitch begins a few feet right of a large right-facing corner and goes mostly up, with some trending to the right, for about 35’ to a small overhang with an old pin above and to the left of it. This section is 5.7 or so and is slightly run-out.

Next, head right past an overhang, then continue to move right and slightly upward for a few feet until you can traverse straight to the right for about 35’. A hanging belay can be built at the end of that traverse, at the intersection of a flake and a vertical crack/corner. If you find yourself under a roof with a sling anchor, you’ve gone too far.

The second pitch goes straight up to a good horizontal a few feet above. If you continue up from there, you will be doing the final, short 5.6 pitch of Twilight Zone.

To continue on TOTC, head directly right with your hands on the horizontal. Your feet will be on a good ledge that will narrow as you continue moving right. When the ledge disappears, you are at the crux.

After that difficulty is resolved, the route finishes around the corner, up a crack through a final overhang with a two-inch gap in it, which is visible from the carriage road.

Location [Suggest Change]

On the GT Ledge, on a 15' high terrace to the left of Andrew.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Standard rack, with one extra small cam.
Great photos. Can't wait to get on this. Apr 23, 2013
CatChen
Germantown, MD
  5.9 PG13
CatChen   Germantown, MD
  5.9 PG13
Fun and airy. Best to avoid the hanging belay and do it in one pitch. Rope drag with a single 60m wasn't an issue if you sling out your pro. Aug 20, 2014
Logan Schiff
Brooklyn, NY
 
Logan Schiff   Brooklyn, NY
 
Great route. Very nice as one pitch but communication with the second will be tricky and there is some decent spacing between gear at times, so I would want to make sure they are solid. Even if you don't want to do the final pitch, the first pitch is great and you can easily finish on the 5.6 variation. Jun 5, 2015
Kurtz
 
Kurtz  
 
The beta for this great route is excellent and Tricia's pics are outstanding...BUT... you need to read everything including the picture captions and look at the pics carefully (unless you're a bad-ass).

Study this .

IMHO the optional belay is primarily for moral support. I had no trouble skipping it. You may also prefer not to have your second watch as you vacillate and tremble.

3 of the 4 climbers I watched traversed too low at the end of P2 and got stuck. The move to get up onto the traverse ledge is pretty tricky and most sane people will try to avoid it, but that's the way you need to go.

Very small cams (00 & 000 C3s) or BallNutz are all that will fit at the end of the final traverse. They may not hold much but you'll feel safer. Aug 23, 2015

More About Traverse of the Clods

Printer-Friendly