Avg: 3.4 from 49 votes
|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Ivan Rezucha, Paul Potters|
|Page Views:||7,695 total · 57/month|
|Shared By:||Denis O'Connor on Jul 16, 2009|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
TOTC begins on the GT ledge, on a 15 terrace to the left of where the first pitch of Andrew meets the GT ledge. The final pitch of Hans' Puss starts from this same terrace.
The pitch begins a few feet right of a large right-facing corner and goes mostly up, with some trending to the right, for about 35 to a small overhang with an old pin above and to the left of it. This section is 5.7 or so and is slightly run-out.
Next, head right past an overhang, then continue to move right and slightly upward for a few feet until you can traverse straight to the right for about 35. A hanging belay can be built at the end of that traverse, at the intersection of a flake and a vertical crack/corner. If you find yourself under a roof with a sling anchor, youve gone too far.
The second pitch goes straight up to a good horizontal a few feet above. If you continue up from there, you will be doing the final, short 5.6 pitch of Twilight Zone.
To continue on TOTC, head directly right with your hands on the horizontal. Your feet will be on a good ledge that will narrow as you continue moving right. When the ledge disappears, you are at the crux.
After that difficulty is resolved, the route finishes around the corner, up a crack through a final overhang with a two-inch gap in it, which is visible from the carriage road.