Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Ivan Rezucha, Paul Potters
Page Views: 6,784 total · 59/month
Shared By: Denis O'Connor on Jul 16, 2009
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


43 Opinions

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Description

Traverse of the Clods is among the most interesting and unusual routes in the Gunks. It’s thoughtful, balancy, exposed, not too strenuous, not R-rated—yet seldom climbed.

TOTC begins on the GT ledge, on a 15’ terrace to the left of where the first pitch of Andrew meets the GT ledge. The final pitch of Hans' Puss starts from this same terrace.

The pitch begins a few feet right of a large right-facing corner and goes mostly up, with some trending to the right, for about 35’ to a small overhang with an old pin above and to the left of it. This section is 5.7 or so and is slightly run-out.

Next, head right past an overhang, then continue to move right and slightly upward for a few feet until you can traverse straight to the right for about 35’. A hanging belay can be built at the end of that traverse, at the intersection of a flake and a vertical crack/corner. If you find yourself under a roof with a sling anchor, you’ve gone too far.

The second pitch goes straight up to a good horizontal a few feet above. If you continue up from there, you will be doing the final, short 5.6 pitch of Twilight Zone.

To continue on TOTC, head directly right with your hands on the horizontal. Your feet will be on a good ledge that will narrow as you continue moving right. When the ledge disappears, you are at the crux.

After that difficulty is resolved, the route finishes around the corner, up a crack through a final overhang with a two-inch gap in it, which is visible from the carriage road.

Location

On the GT Ledge, on a 15' high terrace to the left of Andrew.

Protection

Standard rack, with one extra small cam.
Great photos. Can't wait to get on this. Apr 23, 2013
CatChen
Germantown, MD
  5.9 PG13
CatChen   Germantown, MD
  5.9 PG13
Fun and airy. Best to avoid the hanging belay and do it in one pitch. Rope drag with a single 60m wasn't an issue if you sling out your pro. Aug 20, 2014
Logan Schiff
Brooklyn, NY
 
Logan Schiff   Brooklyn, NY
 
Great route. Very nice as one pitch but communication with the second will be tricky and there is some decent spacing between gear at times, so I would want to make sure they are solid. Even if you don't want to do the final pitch, the first pitch is great and you can easily finish on the 5.6 variation. Jun 5, 2015
Kurtz
Fort Collins, CO
 
Kurtz   Fort Collins, CO
 
The beta for this great route is excellent and Tricia's pics are outstanding...BUT... you need to read everything including the picture captions and look at the pics carefully (unless you're a bad-ass).

Study this .

IMHO the optional belay is primarily for moral support. I had no trouble skipping it. You may also prefer not to have your second watch as you vacillate and tremble.

3 of the 4 climbers I watched traversed too low at the end of P2 and got stuck. The move to get up onto the traverse ledge is pretty tricky and most sane people will try to avoid it, but that's the way you need to go.

Very small cams (00 & 000 C3s) or BallNutz are all that will fit at the end of the final traverse. They may not hold much but you'll feel safer. Aug 23, 2015
Danny
brooklyn, ny
Danny   brooklyn, ny
This is a 4-star pitch of 5.9 climbing unlike any other that i have done at the Gunks. It's the opposite of what climbing MF or Apoplexy feels like, with no chalked jugs or fixed gear. It was super fun, exposed, and adventurous, and not a casual route. The traverse is an "out there" experience at the Gunks, ie a slab crux on crimps and micro footholds, with mucho air beneath you. I linked both pitches into one without too much drag, but placed nearly all the pro and slings i had. The leg-dangling ledge at the top of the cliff is a glorious belay seat to cap it all off.
The gear anchor at the top takes hand-sized cams - and don't worry, you won't be needing those for the route itself :) Nov 12, 2018