Traverse of the Clods
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British PG13
Avg: 3.5 from 90 votes
Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
FA: | Ivan Rezucha, Paul Potters |
Page Views: | 9,772 total · 52/month |
Shared By: | Denis O'Connor on Jul 16, 2009 |
Admins: | Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio |
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Description
Traverse of the Clods is among the most interesting and unusual routes in the Gunks. Its thoughtful, balancy, exposed, not too strenuous, not R-ratedyet seldom climbed.
TOTC begins on the GT ledge, on a 15 terrace to the left of where the first pitch of Andrew meets the GT ledge. The final pitch of Hans' Puss starts from this same terrace.
The pitch begins a few feet right of a large right-facing corner and goes mostly up, with some trending to the right, for about 35 to a small overhang with an old pin above and to the left of it. This section is 5.7 or so and is slightly run-out.
Next, head right past an overhang, then continue to move right and slightly upward for a few feet until you can traverse straight to the right for about 35. A hanging belay can be built at the end of that traverse, at the intersection of a flake and a vertical crack/corner. If you find yourself under a roof with a sling anchor, youve gone too far.
The second pitch goes straight up to a good horizontal a few feet above. If you continue up from there, you will be doing the final, short 5.6 pitch of Twilight Zone.
To continue on TOTC, head directly right with your hands on the horizontal. Your feet will be on a good ledge that will narrow as you continue moving right. When the ledge disappears, you are at the crux.
After that difficulty is resolved, the route finishes around the corner, up a crack through a final overhang with a two-inch gap in it, which is visible from the carriage road.
TOTC begins on the GT ledge, on a 15 terrace to the left of where the first pitch of Andrew meets the GT ledge. The final pitch of Hans' Puss starts from this same terrace.
The pitch begins a few feet right of a large right-facing corner and goes mostly up, with some trending to the right, for about 35 to a small overhang with an old pin above and to the left of it. This section is 5.7 or so and is slightly run-out.
Next, head right past an overhang, then continue to move right and slightly upward for a few feet until you can traverse straight to the right for about 35. A hanging belay can be built at the end of that traverse, at the intersection of a flake and a vertical crack/corner. If you find yourself under a roof with a sling anchor, youve gone too far.
The second pitch goes straight up to a good horizontal a few feet above. If you continue up from there, you will be doing the final, short 5.6 pitch of Twilight Zone.
To continue on TOTC, head directly right with your hands on the horizontal. Your feet will be on a good ledge that will narrow as you continue moving right. When the ledge disappears, you are at the crux.
After that difficulty is resolved, the route finishes around the corner, up a crack through a final overhang with a two-inch gap in it, which is visible from the carriage road.
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