Type: Trad, Aid, 100 ft (30 m)
GPS: 41.74396, -74.17964
FA: FA: Art Gran & Phil Jacobus, 1963 FFA: Russ Clune & Jordan Mills, 1993.11.23
Page Views: 44 total · 7/month
Shared By: Chad Silva on May 29, 2025
Admins: Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio

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Description Suggest change

For us mere mortals, or those just looking for some exciting aid practice - Twilight Zone provides an excellent outing that explores one of the most iconic hard-climbing features at the Gunks.

The traverse is not especially long, but a reasonable rack (and liberal use of fixed gear) is required. Your follower will need to re-aid it... so don't backclean! There are only one or two places where the cam placements are tenuous, and the final seam can use small nuts.

Location Suggest change

Starting from the GT ledge to the right of Andrew P1, the route goes up near the hollow corner (5.4 free climbing, very doable in approach shoes) to a fixed anchor in the corner. You may choose to belay the meat of the climb from there (for proximity to the leader) - or just clip the anchor and start the aid traverse (to allow the belayer to remain comfortably on the GT ledge).

Either way - the route trends left under the prominent roof., then escapes up through a left-leaning diagonal crack up to a bolted anchor. Even if belayed from the ground, it's possible to lower the leader back to the GT ledge with a 70m rope.

Protection Suggest change

Aid rack, primarily small cams and nuts.  Bolted anchor.

Photos

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