Type: Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
GPS: 41.74396, -74.17964
FA: Cody Sims, 2010
Page Views: 336 total · 30/month
Shared By: Jerome St-Michel on Jun 1, 2025 · Updates
Admins: Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Four distinct boulder cruxes that on their own would each be carriage road classics capped by the epic final roof.

Start up an easy ramp up to a large block with a sling, cut straight left through an easy traverse with some gear along the way until you are below a bolt. This bolt can be stick-clipped by hanging on gear, which is generally recommended as the first boulder is somewhat of a runout. Complete the first boulder (V4) to a decent rest below the first bolt.

Knock out another boulder (V5) to yet another good rest at the second bolt.

Punch through the lower half crux boulder (V6) and then adopt a decent stance for your final rest before plugging some gear in.

The next lip can feel anywhere between V3 and V6 depending and includes some wild beta. Pulling past it gets you a full rest (on uncomfortable feet) just below the Twilight Zone anchor. The variation Low Zone (5.13c) ends at this point.

From here, bust out the French Connection roof on good holds until you get to the last exit moves. Some more inverted positioning gets you over the final lip and to victory.

Location Suggest change

Start in the easy dihedral left of Andrew.

Protection Suggest change

Cams to a number 4.  2 bolts.

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