Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Ivan Rezucha, Annie O'Neill, 1984
Page Views: 1,535 total · 15/month
Shared By: Dana Bartlett on Apr 21, 2010
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

1. Climb pretty much straight up the face 20 feet left of Moonlight to the GT ledge. 5.6, 130 feet.

2. Follow Moonlight to the start of its traverse. Go up and slightly left (crux) to the base of a short open book with clean, white rock. Go straight left around the corner and reconnect with Moonlight. 5.10a, 100 feet.

Descent: Three rappels from bolted anchors over No Glow will get you to the ground with a single rope.

Location

Start 20 feet left of Moonlight.

Protection

Standard 'Gunks rack.

Photos

- No Photos -
JSH

JSH    
I (think I) mistakenly started on this when climbing Moonlight. There's a short fissure/crack not far off the ground, that is perhaps only 5.6+ but certainly R. So, Step Lively's P1 is not a great first pitch for a moderate leader. Oct 12, 2010
SethG  
You know, Julie, you may have been on Moonlight. The traditional start to Moonlight is really lacking in pro until you reach the base of the left-facing corner. Oct 13, 2010
JSH

JSH    
Well, that's certainly what I thought at the time! :)

Most ropes/parties I've seen on Moonlight seem to get/scramble easily up to the ledge at ~10', step right around the left-facing corner at that level, then go up for ~10-20' before stepping back left into the corner proper. Or do what this guy's doing:

mountainproject.com/v/new_y…

What I climbed was the same ~10' up, but ~15' left of the start of the left-facing corner, then face climbed up and over to the corner. It's the faint crack almost hidden behind leaves, on the left in the picture, at the same level as the climber shown. Oct 15, 2010
SethG  
Your way is the way I've started Moonlight too. I remember a few steps up that you couldn't protect, and then an easy does it couple of moves to the corner. The first time I was there a person who seemed wise in the ways of the cliff told me it was the way to go. The other way you are talking about is Dick's 5.2 variation 1 start, isn't it? Oct 16, 2010
JSH

JSH    
Likely, yes ... Oct 18, 2010
lucander
Stone Ridge, NY
  5.9
lucander   Stone Ridge, NY
  5.9
Climbed this the way it's written up on this page and it felt 9ish. The Grey Dick description and picture seems to have the climb blasting through the series of hanging corners and not going "straight left" (which seems the obvious way to go once you're up there). The way it climbs is more of a Moonlight variation, the Grey Dick write up has it taking a wholly independent line through the lichen between Moonlight and Erect Direction. Apr 24, 2014
SethG  
The way Dana describes the route here is (I believe) the way Swain describes it. You make some committing moves up a couple of tiers of overhangs to the base of the white open book and then traverse left (somewhat delicate, I thought 10a was fair) around the corner.

Dick Williams and the Trapps App instead say to go up the white open book. I considered it but it looked to be harder than 5.10. Will have to try it that way some time. Oct 30, 2017