Type: Trad, 195 ft, 2 pitches
FA: P1: J. McCarthy and R. Goldstone 1969 Complete: R. Goldstone, D. DuMais, R. Schrag 1969
Page Views: 2,695 total · 20/month
Shared By: Ross Fadely on Jan 11, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


46 Opinions

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Description

Great face climbing and surprisingly pumpy. A must do!

P1- Climb the wide crack to the ledge. Step right and climb the thin fault and face above to the small roof utilizing small, rounded face holds. Once here, go left to the Feast of Fools bolt anchors. Most rap here.

P2- Climb up straight up to the obvious overhang and pull it. Then head up to the next, step left and up to the GT. Rap at Arrow, which is to climbers' left.

Location

About 25 feet downhill and right of the huge Hans' Puss corner at a obvious 6" wide crack.

Protection

Standard rack to 2", small cams helpful.

Photos

BTodd
 
BTodd  
 
the thin fault was scary, I wish I could have put more gear in. However, its a great climb. I've seen people use this to top rope the 5.10 to the left that looks like fun...just put a directional in. May 26, 2008
Joe M
Beckley, wv
  5.9+
Joe M   Beckley, wv
  5.9+
Nice exposed moves on it, worth doing. Jun 2, 2008
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
I seconded this climb and found it rather reasonable. As a leader, I am sure it give some pause for thought on the face below the little roof. Fun climb. Sep 13, 2009
Pawel Janowski
WA
  5.9
Pawel Janowski   WA
  5.9
Beautiful, beautiful climb! Only wish the face/crack crux section were longer! Good gear (C3 and small cams). On top of that you have an unprotected offwidth start (you can avoid making it offwidth but without big gear it's still unprotected for the first 10-15ft) and classic gunks horizontals on vertical rock to finish.

PS: had heard of a fixed nut. As of 9/14 only fixed gear is a good piton at the start of the crux. Sep 29, 2014
JSH

JSH    
I've seen fixed nuts come & go in that small crack - that should be a warning to anyone leading it. Sep 29, 2014
The third pitch is completely overgrown and that's too bad. The climbing is different from the usual 'Gunks fare. Oct 20, 2015
chewtoynj
NJ
  5.10a
chewtoynj   NJ
  5.10a
The Gunks App has the start of this route about 10 feet left of that pictured wide crack. I did the App's version of the first 1/2 of the 1st pitch. It was super fun, steep, and very well protected. The face climbing above was classic Gunks 5.9+. Meaning it is probably 5.10a. Sep 8, 2017