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Routes in h. The Arrow Wall - CCK

Amber Waves of Pain T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Andrew T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Android-Moby Dick link-up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Annie Oh! T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arrow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
CCK Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Cold Turkeys T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Crack' N Up T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Deep Lichen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Diana T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Verschneidung (Easy V) T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Erect Direction T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Face to Face T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Feast of Fools T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hans' Puss T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hawkeye T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jim's Gem T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Keep on Struttin' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Last Will Be First, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Limelight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lost and Found T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Man's Quest for Flight T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Moby Dick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Modern Times T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moonlight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
No Glow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nurse's Aid T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Proctor Silex T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Proctoscope T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Quiver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Red Pillar T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Silhouette T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Smilin' the Hard Way T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Steep Hikin' T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Step Lively T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Strolling on Jupiter T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Supper's Ready T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Three Doves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Vultures T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Three Vultures Direct T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Traverse of the Clods T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Twilight Zone T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c C1
Unholy Wick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Updraft T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wop Stop T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 195 ft, 2 pitches
FA: P1: J. McCarthy and R. Goldstone 1969 Complete: R. Goldstone, D. DuMais, R. Schrag 1969
Page Views: 2,489 total, 21/month
Shared By: Ross Fadely on Jan 11, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

Great face climbing and surprisingly pumpy. A must do!

P1- Climb the wide crack to the ledge. Step right and climb the thin fault and face above to the small roof utilizing small, rounded face holds. Once here, go left to the Feast of Fools bolt anchors. Most rap here.

P2- Climb up straight up to the obvious overhang and pull it. Then head up to the next, step left and up to the GT. Rap at Arrow, which is to climbers' left.

Location

About 25 feet downhill and right of the huge Hans' Puss corner at a obvious 6" wide crack.

Protection

Standard rack to 2", small cams helpful.

Photos

chewtoynj
NJ
  5.10a
chewtoynj   NJ
  5.10a
The Gunks App has the start of this route about 10 feet left of that pictured wide crack. I did the App's version of the first 1/2 of the 1st pitch. It was super fun, steep, and very well protected. The face climbing above was classic Gunks 5.9+. Meaning it is probably 5.10a. Sep 8, 2017
The third pitch is completely overgrown and that's too bad. The climbing is different from the usual 'Gunks fare. Oct 20, 2015
JSH

JSH    
I've seen fixed nuts come & go in that small crack - that should be a warning to anyone leading it. Sep 29, 2014
Pawel Janowski
WA
  5.9
Pawel Janowski   WA
  5.9
Beautiful, beautiful climb! Only wish the face/crack crux section were longer! Good gear (C3 and small cams). On top of that you have an unprotected offwidth start (you can avoid making it offwidth but without big gear it's still unprotected for the first 10-15ft) and classic gunks horizontals on vertical rock to finish.

PS: had heard of a fixed nut. As of 9/14 only fixed gear is a good piton at the start of the crux. Sep 29, 2014
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
I seconded this climb and found it rather reasonable. As a leader, I am sure it give some pause for thought on the face below the little roof. Fun climb. Sep 13, 2009
Joe M
Beckley, wv
  5.9+
Joe M   Beckley, wv
  5.9+
Nice exposed moves on it, worth doing. Jun 2, 2008
BTodd
 
BTodd  
 
the thin fault was scary, I wish I could have put more gear in. However, its a great climb. I've seen people use this to top rope the 5.10 to the left that looks like fun...just put a directional in. May 26, 2008