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Routes in h. The Arrow Wall - CCK

Amber Waves of Pain T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Andrew T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Android-Moby Dick link-up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Annie Oh! T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arrow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
CCK Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Cold Turkeys T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Crack' N Up T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Deep Lichen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Diana T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Verschneidung (Easy V) T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Erect Direction T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Face to Face T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Feast of Fools T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hans' Puss T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hawkeye T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jim's Gem T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Keep on Struttin' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Last Will Be First, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Limelight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lost and Found T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Man's Quest for Flight T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Moby Dick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Modern Times T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moonlight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
No Glow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nurse's Aid T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Proctor Silex T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Proctoscope T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Quiver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Red Pillar T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Silhouette T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Smilin' the Hard Way T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Steep Hikin' T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Step Lively T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Strolling on Jupiter T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Supper's Ready T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Three Doves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Vultures T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Traverse of the Clods T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Twilight Zone T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c C1
Unholy Wick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Updraft T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wop Stop T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: P1: Jim Munson, Morris Hershoff, Hardie Truesdale, 1983. P2: John Stannard, John Bragg, 1973.
Page Views: 1,154 total, 18/month
Shared By: Nicola Masciandaro on Aug 29, 2012
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

P1, 5.9: Start at the base of the Andrew corner. Climb up of the left wall of the Andrew corner, then head left around the arete and up to the GT ledge.

P2, 5.11-: Go up the face right of the Silhouette corner to a roof. Move left over a small ceiling by a thin crack to the base of the final corner capped by the large roof. Get a piece in the corner and move up into it (crux), then exit out left and up to tree belay.

Location

Arrow Wall

Protection

standard rack, tcu's

Photos

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JSH

JSH    
I succumb to that temptation whenever I can! Jul 13, 2015
SethG  
OK so I was curious and I did pitch one of Man's Quest on Saturday. I ended up doing the 5.6 start because I found gear that way. The 5.8 start diagonals up to the arete a little quicker but the holds are sandy/slippery and I didn't want to smack right back down onto the ledge, so I just made the extra move up before traversing left to the main face.

Once you get around onto the main face there are some nice 5.7/5.8 moves and it's a little bit dirty. The gear is pretty good. If it got more traffic and cleaned up a bit it would be a fine pitch.

On the main face Silhouette is always just a few feet to your left and it takes some commitment to stay off of Silhouette all the way to the GT Ledge, since Silhouette is a beautiful climb and it is clean. Julie, I'd say if you did some "genuine crack motion" then you succumbed to the temptation and moved onto Silhouette, since there is no vertical crack on Man's Quest. Jul 12, 2015
JSH

JSH    
Hm. Years, likely 5 of them. We started as for Andrew, on top of the scrambling ledge. I remember an interesting move or two up a R-facing corner (and something about bees), moving up it and then left to get out onto the Silhouette face. Nice climbing up that face, some genuine crack motion, steeper than you'd expect. A bit dirty then, but not terrible. Give it a whirl! Jul 7, 2015
SethG  
How long ago did you do pitch one, Julie? I've looked at it a few times and each time I've walked away because it looked pretty dirty from the ground. Also which start did you do? The guidebook has it two different ways IIRC. Jul 7, 2015
JSH

JSH    
We've climbed P1 of this on its own -- pretty worthwhile! Jul 6, 2015
Colin Porter
Norwalk, CT
 
Colin Porter   Norwalk, CT
 
(p1) Did Protor Silex for pitch one

(p2) Start the pitch on top of the large block. Climb 5.7 moves up and right under small roofs. After about 30-40 feet, go straight up under the large roof on the left side. The crux is getting into and past a small seam on the left side of the large roof (a #2 C4 at your feet and a .75 C4 in a pocket/hand hold can be used to protect the crux). It's 2 moves of 10b to get into the seam, then a side pull/undercling fingertip crux at 10d/11a. After the crux, you get a bomber .4 C4. Then exit the roof out left, and belay at the tree.

It's a very short crux, just 1 move at 11a, and an excellent first 11a lead in the Gunks. Jul 4, 2015