Type: Trad, 220 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Ivan Rezucha, Annie O'Neill, Rod Swartz, Maury Jaffe, 1980
Page Views: 10,805 total · 67/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Mar 1, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappeling Details

Description

Another classic route on a great section of the cliff.

The first pitch of Annie Oh! is a bit runout; the second pitch is mega-classic, steep, exciting face.

People often skip the first pitch of Annie Oh!, climbing the first pitch of Three Doves, Limelight, or Arrow to the GT Ledge, and then climbing the second pitch of Annie Oh! from there. Done this way, the route becomes a four-star classic.

The Annie Oh! access trail is just past some white rocks on the left side of the carriage road, at an open area with a good view of the valley. This is about a 13-min. walk from the Uberfall, and a 9-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road.

At the cliff, spot a huge left-facing corner on the right; this is Easy Verschneidung (Easy V). Annie Oh! starts about 60' left of Easy V and 20' left of Limelight. This is about 15' right of a large block leaning against the wall (Three Doves).

P1: Climb 40' up a runout slab (5.4 R) to a left-facing corner capped by a small overhang. Turn the overhang, continue up past the right side of a scary block, and angle back left past dirty ledges to the obvious ledge. Belay at any of several big trees. 5.8, 100'.

P1 (variations): Climb the first pitch of Three Doves, Limelight, or Arrow to get to the same ledge. (Recommended).

P2: Start by scrambling up some left-facing flakes. The wall steepens here and the climbing gets harder. Climb up the face, following the path of least resistance, traversing right under a shallow overhang, where the scary loose block discussed below used to be (it fell in Nov. 2012). Continue up the bright white face above, with several thin 5.8 moves. At the final roof, either exit right onto Limelight, or move left to a groove near the top of the wall. Make an awkward exit move up the groove to a bolt anchor at the top. 5.8+, 100'.

Descent: Rap from the bolt anchor back to the GT Ledge (one 60m rope, but watch the ends). Downclimb to the big tree with rap slings. Rap 100' to the ground with a 60m rope.

Protection

Standard rack with emphasis on small pro. Small cams useful for the first pitch. Small cams and nuts useful for the second pitch.

Photos