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Annie Oh!

5.8+, Trad, 220 ft, 2 pitches,  Avg: 3.4 from 202 votes
FA: Ivan Rezucha, Annie O'Neill, Rod Swartz, Maury Jaffe, 1980
New York > Gunks > Trapps > h. The Arrow Wall - CCK
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

Another classic route on a great section of the cliff.

The first pitch of Annie Oh! is a bit runout; the second pitch is mega-classic, steep, exciting face.

People often skip the first pitch of Annie Oh!, climbing the first pitch of Three Doves, Limelight, or Arrow to the GT Ledge, and then climbing the second pitch of Annie Oh! from there. Done this way, the route becomes a four-star classic.

The Annie Oh! access trail is just past some white rocks on the left side of the carriage road, at an open area with a good view of the valley. This is about a 13-min. walk from the Uberfall, and a 9-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road.

At the cliff, spot a huge left-facing corner on the right; this is Easy Verschneidung (Easy V). Annie Oh! starts about 60' left of Easy V and 20' left of Limelight. This is about 15' right of a large block leaning against the wall (Three Doves).

P1: Climb 40' up a runout slab (5.4 R) to a left-facing corner capped by a small overhang. Turn the overhang, continue up past the right side of a scary block, and angle back left past dirty ledges to the obvious ledge. Belay at any of several big trees. 5.8, 100'.

P1 (variations): Climb the first pitch of Three Doves, Limelight, or Arrow to get to the same ledge. (Recommended).

P2: Start by scrambling up some left-facing flakes. The wall steepens here and the climbing gets harder. Climb up the face, following the path of least resistance, traversing right under a shallow overhang, where the scary loose block discussed below used to be (it fell in Nov. 2012). Continue up the bright white face above, with several thin 5.8 moves. At the final roof, either exit right onto Limelight, or move left to a groove near the top of the wall. Make an awkward exit move up the groove to a bolt anchor at the top. 5.8+, 100'.

Descent: Rap from the bolt anchor back to the GT Ledge (one 60m rope, but watch the ends). Downclimb to the big tree with rap slings. Rap 100' to the ground with a 60m rope.

Protection

Standard rack with emphasis on small pro. Small cams useful for the first pitch. Small cams and nuts useful for the second pitch.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Marco Dees on the final crux move of Annie Oh! Oct. 2017
[Hide Photo] Marco Dees on the final crux move of Annie Oh! Oct. 2017
Breanna following the amazing p2 of Annie Oh!
[Hide Photo] Breanna following the amazing p2 of Annie Oh!
Annie Oh 1st pitch.  The first gear is nearly halfway up the pitch -- roughly where I'm standing.
[Hide Photo] Annie Oh 1st pitch. The first gear is nearly halfway up the pitch -- roughly where I'm standing.
Tanya passes scary detached block on pitch 2 of Annie Oh! Fantastic climb. One of the best at this grade at the Gunks.<br>
<br>
This is the block that fell in November of 2012.
[Hide Photo] Tanya passes scary detached block on pitch 2 of Annie Oh! Fantastic climb. One of the best at this grade at the Gunks. This is the block that fell in November of 2012.
Annie Oh!
[Hide Photo] Annie Oh!
gblauer getting closer to the scary flakes (not shown)
[Hide Photo] gblauer getting closer to the scary flakes (not shown)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

eric larson
aurora, co
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] i climbed the first pitch of arrow to get up here.. much nicer first pitch imo.. definitely be careful of that loose block, tempting to pull on it, but there plenty of holds before/past it! Apr 22, 2008
slim

  5.8 R
[Hide Comment] found the second pitch fairly serious. a spooky loose block, hairy flake, no pro, not a very steep clean fall, and crux climbing seemed R rated in my book. Jun 8, 2009
rgold
Poughkeepsie, NY
[Hide Comment] That picture of Tanya yarding on the block with flat feet scares the daylights out of me. I've done the route a bunch of times and really like it, but I have never so much as touched that block. Perhaps it is 5.9- there without the block, but well worth a little extra difficulty to avoid stressing a feature as detached as that. Dec 7, 2009
doligo
  5.8-
[Hide Comment] BETA to avoid loose block: Having never been on this climb before, touching the loose block on lead scared daylights out me, so I downclimbed to the nearest good footing and traversed a foot or two to the right (almost lichen-covered holds get you above the block in a couple of 5.6ish moves). One of the easier 8s in the Gunks, Limelight is a far more serious lead, IMO. May 16, 2011
lucander
Stone Ridge, NY
  5.8
[Hide Comment] That block on pitch 2 is going to sever a rope and take out a belayer one day, hope I'm a long way from the Trapps when it happens. There's another "bongo" flake that few mention - it's got the green alien (circa 2005) stuck in it. We all put a .5 camalot or so in the horizontal above. No imminent, but give that a while and it will be in the talus.

All that said, climb with caution and enjoy yet another truly awesome Gunks. 5.8 Jan 10, 2012
Steve Moulding
New York
  5.8+ R
[Hide Comment] Traumatic memories of this one. While being a solid 5.8 leader at the gunks, P2 completely freaked me out. I found it super steep, run out, and I very nearly went for a very long whipper when both feet popped. I slapped them back on to god-knows-what and they held. I finished, but was not happy. May 31, 2012
Simon Thompson
New Paltz, NY
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Climbed this route for the first time this past weekend. The "scary loose block" had me pretty spooked on lead. After a lot of poking around I discovered a clutch finger pocket right of the block that makes pulling on the thing completely avoidable. Someone should probably take a crowbar up there and pry it off before it kills someone... Aug 16, 2012
[Hide Comment] 11/9/2012

I didn't realize it until a couple minutes ago but I knew something felt off when I climbed Annie oh yesterday. The block is GONE. I don't think it changes the climb much, other than making it less "thrilling." Nov 10, 2012
CatChen
Germantown, MD
[Hide Comment] We skipped P1 so I can only comment on P2. I thought the pitch was decently protected (no more than 10 ft between gear) and easier than P2 of 3 doves. Maybe it seems easier without the scary loose block? Don't be scared off by the comments. Fun pitch. Go climb it. May 6, 2013
micah richard
Litchfield, Connecticut
[Hide Comment] This was my very first 5.8 lead at the gunks. And I'm glad it was! I did the first pitch of Limelight to get to the GT. The second pitch of Annie O is really good. Gear is p.g but what you get is solid for the most part. Several thin committing moves keep it very interesting! There is a loose block near the top right before the last few moves. Put this one on your list. Jun 18, 2013
[Hide Comment] That "other" scary loose block near the top is REALLY REALLY loose and it is quite large. I went around it to the left but that thing is very likely going to hurt someone. The block in question is oriented horizontally, around 12-14" tall and 5' or so long. Watch out for it, go around it, don't touch it.

Amazing climbing otherwise. Lots of fun. Aug 20, 2013
Luc-514
Montreal, QC
  5.8+ PG13
[Hide Comment] That large flake is pretty spooky on P2, there's a stuck alien under it.
I don't know what imbecile places a cam in the back of a 4'x3' hollow sounding flake...
There's a small offset nut placement right above on the right side of the flake. Sep 22, 2014
Emmett Lyman
Boston, MA
 
[Hide Comment] I've always climbed P1 of Three Doves to access P2, but finally gave P1 a whirl this weekend due to the holiday crowds. Holy moly, that is serious and runout R for sure. I'm not sure if I missed a placement or two (all too shallow to my mind), but the runout after the loose flake/block was quite serious and I'd say more like 20-25'. Broken ankles would have been a good outcome. Still, the climbing itself was fantastic, and the movements thoughtful. Absolutely great pitch, but terribly spooky. I probably won't do it again. Oct 12, 2015
Danny
Golden, CO
 
[Hide Comment] i enjoyed this climb from the ground up, but i found P2 spicier and more sustained the neighboring Three Doves. I wouldn't have wanted to lead it when i was breaking into the 5.8 grade. it is really fun and beautiful and aesthetic, but you navigate serious hazards up there while you're on thin holds. This second pitch is a great metaphor for climbing in general. Thrilling, exhilarating, but undeniably dangerous. Oct 2, 2017
[Hide Comment] Light-colored flake below the crux of p1 is loose. Significantly harder to protect without it. Oct 23, 2017
Jack Reills
  5.8+ R
[Hide Comment] P1 was good climbing but pretty run-out, and much of the gear is very small until 3/4 of the way up the wall. Definitely R rated, but more like 5.5 or 5.6R than 5.4R I thought -- it looks like the route may have changed a bit protection wise semi-recently? I wouldn't recommend P1, especially as there are viable alternatives to get to the 2nd pitch. P2 is super classic, with safe gear IMO. I thought the awkward move up left at the top was very cool. Nov 13, 2017
[Hide Comment] There is a decent runout on the 2nd pitch right when it starts getting hard with potential to take a big whipper. If your not 100% on the grade beware. Sep 3, 2018
Ostap Vidov
mamaroneck
  5.8+ R
[Hide Comment] I think the first pitch is way spicier then the second. The beginning 40' 5.4 run out is not too bad but the next 60' of 5.7-5.8 climbing has very little gear. I think i only found 4 good placements after the beginning 5.4 run out. Definitely adds a spice factor & in my opinion the first pitch is way better then the second. Like a shot of adrenaline. Jun 2, 2019