Avg: 3.7 from 148 votes
|Type:||Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||FA: Bill Goldner & Dennis Mehmet - 1966FFA: John Stannard & John Bragg - 1973|
|Page Views:||24,652 total · 140/month|
|Shared By:||Josh Janes on Feb 21, 2006|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Erect Direction is a roof climb -- and one of my favorites at the Gunks -- right up there with The Yellow Wall, Carbs and Caffeine, and Fat City Direct.
The Erect Direction access trail is about 15 minutes walking from the Uberfall, and 10 minutes from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road. Look for a huge boulder (with problems/chalk) on the left. The access trail starts just past the boulder.
At the cliff, go right and up to get to the start of the route. Locate a huge right-facing corner; this is the route Updraft. Erect Direction starts at a hand crack on the left wall of this corner, about 20' left of the start of CCK.
P1 (5.8, 80'): Climb the nice, varied hand crack to the GT Ledge. This is a good solid 5.8 pitch on its own.
P2 (5.10c, 70'): Above you (you may need to move the belay to the left) is a massive roof system. Climb up juggy terrain to some powerful moves up a vague right-facing corner (5.10c, crux) to a cramped stance under a large roof. A few underclings to the right lead up into the massive, obvious right-facing corner with a bomber 0.75 Camalot. At the top of this corner, and below the biggest series of roofs, a cramped hanging belay is available, but I recommend running the pitch into the next one - this will require extensive backcleaning and lots of runners however.
P3 (5.10a, 60'): This is the crazy pitch on the route - make sure you get to lead this! Trend left off of the belay via some finger tip buckets, then reach back over your head to a jug at the lip. Begin working your way up a series of outrageous roofs with jugs galore. Plenty of opportunity for cutting your feet loose, heel-hooking, and hanging from gear. The roofs can be tackled more or less directly, but the easiest path is to traverse slightly left along the lip of the first roof, then back right on the second roof. A short corner with thin gear leads to the top of the wall.
Descent: Walk right about 100' to a notch, and scramble down the notch to the bolted rappel route by The Last Will Be First. 3 rappels with one rope get you back down. Or, to the left/south, three rappels from bolted anchors over No Glow will get you to the ground with a single rope.