Carbs and Caffeine
Avg: 3.7 from 70 votes
|Type:||Trad, 140 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||FA (crux): John Bragg & Ivan Rezucha - 1975FFA (complete): Mark Robinson & Kevin Bein - 1979|
|Page Views:||15,519 total · 107/month|
|Shared By:||Josh Janes on Feb 21, 2006|
DescriptionAnother super-classic route in the Yellow Wall area. This begins just right of The Yellow Wall itself and shares a belay with Airy Aria.
P1: Begin on the arete just right of the OW corner of Airy Aria, and climb a left-diagonaling finger crack to a nice belay ledge out left. Belay here at two bolts. A decent, well-protected crack pitch. 5.9, 60'.
P2: Climb up and right off of the belay through a wild system of roofs. There are frequent places to rest -- including a no-hands knee bar immediately below the crux. Reach up and clip a bolt, then pull a difficult move (11a -- but I thought it was harder) to a tenuous stance on tiny holds. There's a second bolt here but it's a really difficult clip and the bolt is total mank anyway -- you may consider skipping it. A few more desperate moves up and right will get you to a thank-God stance and #2 Camalot placement in a horizontal. Climb up more roofs (successively pumpier), to a final ass-kicking, cramped, hand traverse right to a belay stance. This feels almost as hard as the crux move, but shorter folks may be able to cruise it.
Bolt was replaced in 2015 (see comment).
ProtectionStandard Rack, two bolts, some pins, and a crucial #2 Camalot above the first crux.
It's 35m from the fixed anchor atop Pitch 2 to the ground. With care, it's possible to lower with a 70m rope; otherwise, walk back to the High Exposure rappel line.