Avg: 3.7 from 99 votes
|Type:||Trad, 140 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||FA (crux): John Bragg & Ivan Rezucha - 1975FFA (complete): Mark Robinson & Kevin Bein - 1979|
|Page Views:||20,055 total · 114/month|
|Shared By:||Josh Janes on Feb 21, 2006|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
P1 (5.9, 60'): Begin on the arete just right of the OW corner of Airy Aria, and climb a left-diagonaling finger crack to a nice belay ledge out left. Belay here at two bolts. A decent, well-protected crack pitch.
P2: Climb up and right off of the belay through a wild system of roofs. There are frequent places to rest -- including a no-hands knee bar immediately below the crux. Reach up and clip a bolt, then pull a difficult move (11a -- but I thought it was harder) to a tenuous stance on tiny holds. There's a second bolt here but it's a really difficult clip and the bolt is total mank anyway -- you may consider skipping it. A few more desperate moves up and right will get you to a thank-God stance and #2 Camalot placement in a horizontal. Climb up more roofs (successively pumpier), to a final ass-kicking, cramped, hand traverse right to a belay stance. This feels almost as hard as the crux move, but shorter folks may be able to cruise it.
Bolt was replaced in 2015 (see comment).
It's 35m from the fixed anchor atop Pitch 2 to the ground. With care, it's possible to lower with a 70m rope; otherwise, walk back to the High Exposure rappel line.