Twilight Zone (Free)

Russ Clune and Jordan Mills freed the roof-traverse crux at 13b in 1993, 30 years after Art Gran and Phil Jacobus aided it with pitons. Apparently in 2009ish, Brian Kim broke a critical hold while trying to free The Best Things In Life Aren't Free which is now free thanks to the young phenom, Will Moss at 14d. After the break 5.13c has been tossed around. It is also recommended as a good route for practicing clean aid, because it's safe but wildly exposed -- lots of hang time.

Buckle up buttercup! Twilight Zone is certainly the most spectacular 5.13 in the Gunks with the exception of Ozone now that it has been downgraded.  Big air cruxes, giant falls, rich history, and the best rock the Gunks have to offer is what this one is all about. Twilight Zone is a reasonable safe free climb but it sports the opportunity for some massive rides especially at the second crux. It's not too uncommon to take a 40 footer from pulling over the lip before the chains!  Let it be known that to my knowledge, Twilight Zone has never seen an actual redpoint. I believe every free ascent has had the gear fixed because cleaning is kind of a nightmare.  It is a tough climb to work due to the traversing nature. Essentially if you want to work it, you have to lead it.

Start off the GT ledge and pretty much solo 50 or 60 feet over very easy terrain to the base of the chimney. Traditionally people would climb the easy right facing corner of Ozone but it has become incredibly over grown after Ozone cuts out left. I opted for climbing Andrew to where it starts traversing right. Traverse left instead here and plug a piece or two with some 4 foot slings.  Climb up in to the chimney and plug a couple more pieces with long slings to avoid rope drag later. A revolver here might be a good idea. The rock quality in the chimney is a little suspect.  Once established in the chimney, chalk up again, check your knot again, and swing around the arete and onto the face. There are currently 2 fixed wires here (2025) but DEFINITELY back them up. I used a 000 C3 but a green Z4 would probably work as well. Swinging onto the face to get to the start of the first crux is probably V4 or 12a ish. A few more moves gets to a better fixed nut (2025) and a great .5 cam. A smaller .5 might be better. I used a .5 X4. Test out your lock off strength on the V8 crux traverse eventually getting to a good jug rest. Get a few more pieces (.2 - .4 are best if they are not fixed) and pull the final lip boulder. Some people find this lip boulder easy ish with good beta but I believe it to be every bit of 12d. It's a good idea to where pants or knee pad here because the knee bar is rather sharp. I have some scars a year later. Shake out on the big victory jug for a while and pull one more 5.11ish move to clip the anchor.

P2: Go left to another right-facing corner, pull an overhang moving right, and step up to the top (25 feet, 5.9 PG).

(*YMMV of course.)

Starting from the GT ledge to the right of Andrew P1, the route goes up near the hollow corner, trends left under the prominent roof. then escapes through a left-leaning diagonal crack. Cleaning the route on descent would be difficult. From the top, it's a short walk to the rap anchors on Arrow or Three Doves.

Bring full rack of RPs and a single rack of cams to .75.  Bolted anchor as of October 2024. Gear for the lip crux is frequently fixed for Ozone.