Avg: 2.3 from 11 votes
|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Art Gran, Pete Vlachos|
|Page Views:||1,628 total · 13/month|
|Shared By:||Dana Bartlett on Apr 21, 2010|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
2. Look for a multi-forked tree that is about 10 feet left or so of a short, right-facing corner and about 80-100 feet right of the big Updraft corner. Climb the face (there is a short vertical crack) to an indistinct notch; the face below the notch can't be missed as the crack is obvious and there is a thin layer of dried bird shit on the face. (Not too bad, but your tastes may differ) After the notch go up 10 feet or so, drift right a bit and then back up and left to a prominent, well-chalked horizontal Use this horizontal to move over the bulge (crux), then traverse left and up for about 25 feet to an obvious V notch. After the notch, the top is not too far.
The first 40 feet or so of Pitch 1 is a bit dirty and indistinct, but the face climbing after that, up to the GT ledge, is fun.
The second pitch doesn't follow a line. But the moves are nice, the protection is good, there are some minor route finding challenges that increase the fun factor - and I've rarely seen anyone on it. The guidebook mentions a piton at the crux, but it is no longer there.
Rappel down the bolted line over The Last Will Be First to climbers' right.