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Routes in h. The Arrow Wall - CCK

Amber Waves of Pain T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Andrew T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Android-Moby Dick link-up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Annie Oh! T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arrow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
CCK Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Cold Turkeys T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Crack' N Up T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Deep Lichen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Diana T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Verschneidung (Easy V) T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Erect Direction T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Face to Face T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Feast of Fools T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hans' Puss T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hawkeye T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jim's Gem T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Keep on Struttin' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Last Will Be First, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Limelight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lost and Found T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Man's Quest for Flight T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Moby Dick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Modern Times T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moonlight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
No Glow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nurse's Aid T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Proctor Silex T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Proctoscope T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Quiver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Red Pillar T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Silhouette T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Smilin' the Hard Way T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Steep Hikin' T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Step Lively T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Strolling on Jupiter T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Supper's Ready T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Three Doves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Vultures T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Three Vultures Direct T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Traverse of the Clods T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Twilight Zone T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c C1
Unholy Wick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Updraft T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Vanishing Point T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Wop Stop T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: McCarthy and Stan Gross (FA, 1954) Art Gran (FFA, 1960s)
Page Views: 1,456 total · 14/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Apr 17, 2010
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


24 Opinions

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Description

The first pitch wanders up the face left of Modern Times. This pitch is seldom climbed; The Last Will Be First is a good alternative path to the GT ledge.

The second pitch is one of the "Waiting for High Exposure" alternatives. It is quite good, with an excellent crux. Climb into a major corner below the Jim's Gem tree (large pine lower than the others, about 100' left of High Exposure). The crux is moving right under the small roofs.

Location

100' left of High Exposure.

Rappel down the bolted line over The Last Will Be First to climbers' left.

Protection

Standard gunks rack

Photos

The latest guide lists two options for climbing the second pitch, and the first one seemed quite a bit harder than 5.8. Mar 21, 2011
Rob Albert  
 
If you do the low traverse, and clip the nasty old pin, DO NOT FALL. There is a nasty potential to hurt yourself on the ledge below. The pin is questionable if it will hold. Fun pitch otherwise. Apr 9, 2012
SethG  
The low traverse is the first one listed in Dick's guide. So I think that I did the same variation as both Dana & Rob, and I disagree with Dana a bit--I thought it was fairly graded at 5.8, but it's a pumpy move across and then up to the roofs.

I do agree with Rob about the pro. That pin does not inspire confidence-- it is rusty and the eye seems a bit eaten through-- and there is no other pro for the crux. I won't be going back for low traverse unless the pin is replaced. I might go back to try the high road, continuing up the corner and doing delicate moves across. Jun 30, 2012
P1 is at least as enjoyable as Modern Times. Maybe a bit dirty up high (exit to the GTL at the short, left-facing corner) but definitely a good ride. Oct 27, 2015
JSH

JSH    
Mike, feel free to provide a better description for P1 than what's here, if you feel it's worthwhile! Oct 28, 2015
Logan Schiff
Brooklyn, NY
 
Logan Schiff   Brooklyn, NY
 
Did the upper traverse from under the roof on P2. Pro is pretty good, though would be a bit of a swing if you fell on the one move, but not terrible. Very fun short route with some nice exposure. Jul 18, 2016

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