Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dick Williams, Art Gran, 1965
Page Views: 22,941 total · 130/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Feb 28, 2006
Admins: RJ B

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

Limelight is another mega-classic on this great wall, along with Three Doves, Arrow, and Annie Oh!. Limelight is the easiest, so it may be the best choice for your first climb in this area.

The Limelight access trail is just past some white rocks on the left side of the carriage road, at an open area with a good view of the valley. This is about a 13-min. walk from the Uberfall, and a 9-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road.

At the cliff, spot the huge left-facing corner of Easy Verschneidung (Easy V) on the right. Limelight starts about 40' left of Easy V and 20' left of Arrow.

Scramble up 15' to a ledge below a groove. Directly above you'll see huge right-leaning flakes that are 50' up the wall.

P1: Climb up the groove and face to the huge flakes. Follow the flakes up and right to the GT Ledge. 5.6 and a bit PG, 80'.

P2: Climb up more or less right above the first pitch, to a ledge. Continue up easy rock aiming for a left-facing corner. Pass a small overhang and make a dicey step left into a thin, left-facing flake at the start of the corner. Climb up the corner and traverse left under a roof (crux). Continue up a crack to a ledge, and go left to a bolt anchor. 5.7, 100'.

Descent: Rap from the bolt anchor back to the GT ledge (stretches a 60m rope - watch the ends). Downclimb to a big tree with rap slings. Rap 100' to the ground with a 60m rope.

Protection

Standard Rack. Small passive and active gear is useful on the second pitch.

Photos