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Routes in h. The Arrow Wall - CCK

Amber Waves of Pain T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Andrew T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Android-Moby Dick link-up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Annie Oh! T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arrow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
CCK Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Cold Turkeys T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Crack' N Up T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Deep Lichen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Diana T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Verschneidung (Easy V) T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Erect Direction T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Face to Face T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Feast of Fools T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hans' Puss T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hawkeye T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jim's Gem T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Keep on Struttin' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Last Will Be First, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Limelight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lost and Found T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Man's Quest for Flight T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Moby Dick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Modern Times T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moonlight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
No Glow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nurse's Aid T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Proctor Silex T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Proctoscope T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Quiver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Red Pillar T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Silhouette T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Smilin' the Hard Way T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Steep Hikin' T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Step Lively T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Strolling on Jupiter T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Supper's Ready T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Three Doves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Vultures T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Traverse of the Clods T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Twilight Zone T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c C1
Unholy Wick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Updraft T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wop Stop T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dick Williams, Art Gran, 1965
Page Views: 19,357 total, 136/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Feb 28, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

Limelight is another mega-classic on this great wall, along with Three Doves, Arrow, and Annie Oh!. Limelight is the easiest, so it may be the best choice for your first climb in this area.

The Limelight access trail is just past some white rocks on the left side of the carriage road, at an open area with a good view of the valley. This is about a 13-min. walk from the Uberfall, and a 9-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road.

At the cliff, spot the huge left-facing corner of Easy Verschneidung (Easy V) on the right. Limelight starts about 40' left of Easy V and 20' left of Arrow.

Scramble up 15' to a ledge below a groove. Directly above you'll see huge right-leaning flakes that are 50' up the wall.

P1: Climb up the groove and face to the huge flakes. Follow the flakes up and right to the GT Ledge. 5.6 and a bit PG, 80'.

P2: Climb up more or less right above the first pitch, to a ledge. Continue up easy rock aiming for a left-facing corner. Pass a small overhang and make a dicey step left into a thin, left-facing flake at the start of the corner. Climb up the corner and traverse left under a roof (crux). Continue up a crack to a ledge, and go left to a bolt anchor. 5.7, 100'.

Descent: Rap from the bolt anchor back to the GT ledge (stretches a 60m rope - watch the ends). Downclimb to a big tree with rap slings. Rap 100' to the ground with a 60m rope.

Protection

Standard Rack. Small passive and active gear is useful on the second pitch.
This climb is soft! It's not hard enough to be a Gunks 5.7. Pitch Two is less than vertical, and not that tricky. May 22, 2017
Brice Ruiz
5.8+
Brice Ruiz  
5.8+
Guide book's rating is 5.8+ and I do not disagree. Second pitch, flake crux is no joke. May 10, 2017
I just wanted to reiterate that there is still a very loose suitcase sized block above the first overhang to the right. It scared the hell out of me when I put a hand on it. After that block, the climbing is simply amazing. Aug 3, 2016
Medic741
Red Hook, New York
  5.7+
Medic741   Red Hook, New York
  5.7+
Was happy to have micronuts for the p2 flake. Well protected if you've got a piece or two ~bd#4 nut. Biggest can I used was a #3 Jul 2, 2016
Meg Grega
Holtsville, NY
 
Meg Grega   Holtsville, NY
 
I agree that the traverse looked harder then it was. I also think that the flake looked harder then it was. I absolutely love p2 of this climb, p1 isn't as good in my opinion. If I recall correctly I believe there's a bit of a runout on P1. Jun 18, 2015
Dan Africk
Brooklyn, New York
5.8- PG13
Dan Africk   Brooklyn, New York
5.8- PG13
My partner led this a few weeks ago, and I'd call this an exciting but very sandbagged climb. Granted I only lead 5.6, but the second pitch crux has a few moves where the only holds are tiny crimps for a few fingers, and nothing but smear for your feet- That does not seem like 5.7 to me.

Note about rappelling: With several trees and deep flakes, it's very easy to get your rope stuck- lower carefully. Also the first person down should swing left of the giant flake, and aim towards a big tree with rap anchors. It's hard to see until you're almost there.

Warning about fixed pro: There was a fixed nut at the crux, that I tried to clean just for fun. I spent a long time getting it loose, but it was getting dark so I had to leave it. It ended up in a much less secure position than I originally found it, so use caution before trusting it! Jun 9, 2015
brostin
  5.7
brostin  
  5.7
super loose suitcase sized block just above the first overhang on pitch 2. Oct 14, 2013
superkick
West Hartford, CT
 
superkick   West Hartford, CT
 
I would definitely agree the flake is harder than the traverse moves. I thought getting under the roof / traverse was pretty easy.

The flake isn't hard, just intimidating. I was able to get a bomber nut in it though, which makes it less heady considering your prior cam is below the start of that flake and there's only a pin once you're on it. Sep 29, 2013
Jaysen Henderson
Bronx NY
 
Jaysen Henderson   Bronx NY
 
i linked the 2 pitches and came up 20 feet short of the anchors! It's doable with a 70 and so much fun. Super cruiser climbing a great gunks moderate for sure. I ended up going straight up through the roof at the end instead of breaking left. Feb 28, 2012
doligo
 
doligo  
 
P2 has more quality moves than P2 of Arrow, IMO. Oct 4, 2010
JSH

JSH    
The beautiful white rock at the top of P2 really is a special feature. Jun 23, 2010
Jason Antin
Golden, CO
  5.7
Jason Antin   Golden, CO
  5.7
A great route to bring Gunks first timers - Aug 10, 2009
slim

  5.7 PG13
slim    
  5.7 PG13
i would call this a somewhat serious route for the grade (2nd pitch). not the thickest flake, slippery crux moves, and your last piece below the flake is a ways (mine was at least, there is a good chance i wasn't paying attention and missed some). maybe not the best route to break into the grade, but a very good route none-the-less. Jun 8, 2009
Spiro
  5.7 PG13
Spiro  
  5.7 PG13
i tend to agree that the thin crack to the travese was more the crux for me. The traverse looked hard but wasnt that bad. good route Apr 10, 2008
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.7+
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
  5.7+
Stellar route; second only to Arrow as my favorite lead this trip! The second pitch is fantastic, but I enjoyed it from top to bottom. NOTE: If you're using the Williams "Select" guide, don't get suckered into following the retarded beta of doing the short scramble up the boulders as a separate pitch. Sep 26, 2007
Jeff Welch
Denver, CO
 
Jeff Welch   Denver, CO
 
Also thought that the thin flake/groove leading up to the overhang was harder than the traverse itself, but that may just be my skill set.

Great route, I only wish the first pitch was as good as the second. It's not bad, just mediocre compared to P2. It's also worth noting that there is some runout climbing on P1, but not too horrible. May 10, 2007
GoBotRocker
Spfld, Ma
GoBotRocker   Spfld, Ma
Great climb, That pin IS still there at the top of the vertical crack before the crux traverse. Jul 4, 2006
Good description. A few notes on descending:

The first rap goes right over Annie Oh!, and the second rap goes right over Three Doves - be careful about throwing a rope. It sucks to get hit by a rope as you pull either crux. The anchor over at Arrow is an alternative and that one doesn't interfere with climbers as much.

You can get down on a 50m rope just fine - you have to swing left at the bottom to get on easier rock but it's no big deal.

The area gets a lot of weekend traffic - when it's crowded I prefer to rap over by Hans' Puss since that's all air. Definitely need two ropes for that. Mar 1, 2006