Type: Trad, 220 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Slater, Thompson, Strang, Bourque 1982
Page Views: 245 total · 12/month
Shared By: akline on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: JSH

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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

This is a sleeper route in the Trapps! If you climb the grade, you should definitely get on it. The rock is super high quality the whole way, it is however, a bit dirty right now because it probably hasn't been climbed in decades. with a little travel it will clean up nicely.

P1: Start 15 right of Last Will Be First, and climb a low angled rock section up toward a maple tree on a ledge. Follow a shallow left-facing corner system to a vertical face. Wander up the vertical face, following the path of least resistance, aiming for a white, two-foot high, right facing corner under a long roof. At the corner below the roof, get some amazing gear and head up right into the crux section, which involves climbing over the roof, and traversing about 6 feet right on small crimps and a sloper, towards a 2 foot high right-facing flake. Once at the flake, you climb pretty much straight up towards the left side of the orange roofs, step a little left and then join Last Will Be First for the last ten feet to the GT ledge.

P2: Climb up to a pointed block about ten feet up, then follow left-facing corners up towards a small roof. Pull this roof and head straight up towards the big roof (optional #4 BD cam). Then head up and left towards the rap station on top.

Rappel down the bolted line over The Last Will Be First to climbers' left.

Location

15 feet right of Last Will Be First

Protection

This route felt very G-rated on a modern Gunks rack, which includes a full run of micro C3s. Both cruxes are protected well, with good small cams in good rock. The crux gear for P1 is just a little strenuous to place.

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