Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 220 ft (67 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||Slater, Thompson, Strang, Bourque 1982|
|Page Views:||669 total · 14/month|
|Shared By:||akline on Nov 7, 2017|
|Admins:||RJ B, Morgan Patterson|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
P1: Start 15 right of Last Will Be First, and climb a low angled rock section up toward a maple tree on a ledge. Follow a shallow left-facing corner system to a vertical face. Wander up the vertical face, following the path of least resistance, aiming for a white, two-foot high, right facing corner under a long roof. At the corner below the roof, get some amazing gear and head up right into the crux section, which involves climbing over the roof, and traversing about 6 feet right on small crimps and a sloper, towards a 2 foot high right-facing flake. Once at the flake, you climb pretty much straight up towards the left side of the orange roofs, step a little left and then join Last Will Be First for the last ten feet to the GT ledge.
P2: Climb up to a pointed block about ten feet up, then follow left-facing corners up towards a small roof. Pull this roof and head straight up towards the big roof (optional #4 BD cam). Then head up and left towards the rap station on top.
Rappel down the bolted line over The Last Will Be First to climbers' left.