Type: Trad, 70 ft (21 m), 2 pitches
FA: 1948 Ken Prestrud and Hans Kraus
Page Views: 211 total · 11/month
Shared By: gunkie X on Jun 4, 2023
Admins: Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Only did the money pitch (P2). Climb straight up the left side of a block 12 feet up, same as for Unholy Wick.  Instead of continuing straight up as for Unholy Wick (5.6 R), traverse left and up from the block quite a distance (~25 feet?) with little gear, but on very easy terrain.  Step up left to an old 2 inch angle piton.  Traverse more or less straight right to another piton, visible,  and a notch in the overhang.  Climb through the notch with good gear and follow Last Will Be First to the shared top bolted anchor/rappel station.  I actually traversed back left and unclipped the old 2 inch angle and back up cam and then climbed back right.  I'm not sure there is too much 5.6 on the pitch.  But it was fun and interesting with good quality climbing.  Protection is not abundant, but good where you get gear.  Maybe not R, but distinctly PG13.

Location Suggest change

Only climbed P2.  Start at the bolted rappel anchor for the Last Will Be First rappels on the GT ledge.   

Protection Suggest change

A couple of old fixed pins which are easy to backup and some normal sized gear up to maybe a #3 Camalot. But you will not get a lot of gear in the first half of the pitch.

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