Ken's Blind Hole
5.5 YDS 4b French 13 Ewbanks IV+ UIAA 11 ZA MS 4a British PG13
Avg: 1.8 from 4 votes
Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | 1948 Ken Prestrud and Hans Kraus |
Page Views: | 211 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | gunkie X on Jun 4, 2023 |
Admins: | Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio |
Description
Only did the money pitch (P2). Climb straight up the left side of a block 12 feet up, same as for Unholy Wick. Instead of continuing straight up as for Unholy Wick (5.6 R), traverse left and up from the block quite a distance (~25 feet?) with little gear, but on very easy terrain. Step up left to an old 2 inch angle piton. Traverse more or less straight right to another piton, visible, and a notch in the overhang. Climb through the notch with good gear and follow Last Will Be First to the shared top bolted anchor/rappel station. I actually traversed back left and unclipped the old 2 inch angle and back up cam and then climbed back right. I'm not sure there is too much 5.6 on the pitch. But it was fun and interesting with good quality climbing. Protection is not abundant, but good where you get gear. Maybe not R, but distinctly PG13.
1 Comment