Avg: 2.3 from 30 votes
|Type:||Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Willie Crowther, Bill Homeyer, Mike Levin, 1961|
|Page Views:||2,396 total · 16/month|
|Shared By:||Artem Lebedev on Sep 4, 2008|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
P2: Continue straight up to a ledge and climb a pillar (V1, V2) to the base of a flaring crack. Climb the crack to the ceiling and then hand traverse ~15' right to a small ledge with a bush. (5.9-, 110 ft.) Belay from here to avoid a rope drag.
- V1 Climb the overhang left of the crack to join V3. 5.10 PG. FA: John Myers, Mike Freeman, 1980.
- V2 Move out right from the arch then angle left across the wall to the top. 5.10 PG. FA: Rich Romano, 1970s.
- V3 From the top of the crack, climb a roof to the foot of an arch. Swing out left, then on to the top. 5.10 PG. FA: Rich Perch, John Bragg, 1970s.
P3: Climb an obvious corner up to an anchor (5.8, not recommended). Also see comments below for better options.
Descent: Three rappels from bolted anchors over No Glow will get you to the ground with a single rope.