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Routes in h. The Arrow Wall - CCK

Amber Waves of Pain T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Andrew T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Android-Moby Dick link-up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Annie Oh! T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arrow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
CCK Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Cold Turkeys T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Crack' N Up T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Deep Lichen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Diana T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Verschneidung (Easy V) T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Erect Direction T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Face to Face T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Feast of Fools T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hans' Puss T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hawkeye T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jim's Gem T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Keep on Struttin' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Last Will Be First, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Limelight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lost and Found T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Man's Quest for Flight T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Moby Dick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Modern Times T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moonlight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
No Glow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nurse's Aid T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Proctor Silex T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Proctoscope T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Quiver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Red Pillar T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Silhouette T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Smilin' the Hard Way T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Steep Hikin' T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Step Lively T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Strolling on Jupiter T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Supper's Ready T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Three Doves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Vultures T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Traverse of the Clods T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Twilight Zone T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c C1
Unholy Wick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Updraft T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wop Stop T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Willie Crowther, Bill Homeyer, Mike Levin, 1961
Page Views: 1,808 total, 16/month
Shared By: Artem Lebedev on Sep 4, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

P1: Move past a difficult boulder problem (crux) to get to a thin crack about 7 feet above the ground. Follow the crack to a bulge, and then climb the easy face above to the GT ledge. (5.9+, 100 ft.)

P2: Continue straight up to a ledge and climb a pillar (V1, V2) to the base of a flaring crack. Climb the crack to the ceiling and then hand traverse ~15' right to a small ledge with a bush. (5.9-, 110 ft.) Belay from here to avoid a rope drag.

- V1 Climb the overhang left of the crack to join V3. 5.10 PG. FA: John Myers, Mike Freeman, 1980.
- V2 Move out right from the arch then angle left across the wall to the top. 5.10 PG. FA: Rich Romano, 1970s.
- V3 From the top of the crack, climb a roof to the foot of an arch. Swing out left, then on to the top. 5.10 PG. FA: Rich Perch, John Bragg, 1970s.

P3: Climb an obvious corner up to an anchor (5.8, not recommended). Also see comments below for better options.

Descent: Three rappels from bolted anchors over No Glow will get you to the ground with a single rope.

Location

Start ~100 feet right of Andrew, below a short thin crack that starts just above head height.

Protection

Big cams and long extenders are useful.

Photos

teresamatrix
Los Angeles, CA
teresamatrix   Los Angeles, CA
"A better option seems to be Three Vultures Direct which cuts left after the initial flake crack/layback and finishes on p3 of Face to Face but avoiding that routes p3 initial vertical seam crux. Haven't done it yet but looks high quality and around 5.9."

I did this today. It is indeed the best thing to do if you want more fun than that boring 5.5 finish. It is really fun! Once you start marching up the flake, it will be obvious when you want to trend left into the finish of Face to Face. In the Dick Williams book, this is called variation 2a and it is given 5.10b. Nov 6, 2016
Alec Orenstein
Gallup, NM
 
Alec Orenstein   Gallup, NM
 
The Trapps App calls v3 described above "Three Vultures Direct." Go to the top of the flake, and then pull the roof into a stance in the arching corner. Then head up and left over the white arete into the final roof of Amber Waves of Pain.

It's a fantastic pitch, but the crux roof is quite strenuous (very solid 10c). Highly recommended. Nov 29, 2015
The Trapps app has P3 at 5.5 and that's about right. In any case it is dirty and I don't recommend it.

A better option seems to be Three Vultures Direct which cuts left after the initial flake crack/layback and finishes on p3 of Face to Face but avoiding that routes p3 initial vertical seam crux. Haven't done it yet but looks high quality and around 5.9. Jun 15, 2015
SethG  
Hey Gail I think you mistakenly wrote No Glow in your comment when you meant to say Face to Face, as you did the first time.

Did all of Three Vultures yesterday. The first pitch crux is literally the first step up off the ground. If you are tall you'll be able to reach the good edge while standing at the base; if you're 5' 7" like me you'll need to boulder up to it. Then a couple thin moves get you to the pro and easier climbing. Really mellow to the GT Ledge, a bit dirty/vegetated as you go from the first ledge with the tree to the actual GT Ledge.

Second pitch is awesome-- unusual climbing for the Gunks. Off-widthy flare. For me this was the crux just below the pin. For my partner on lead (I led pitch one) for pitch two I think the crux was committing to the traverse. As a follower, if the leader has protected the traverse well, I think it feels easy for 5.9.

Final pitch is nice enough. We combined pitch 2 and 3 and I don't think the drag was too bad. Aug 14, 2011
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Linked P1/P2 of Three Vultures with P3 of Face to Face. P1 crux is right off the ground, the climb eases up considerably into a ladder like experience to the GT leadge. P2 is amazingly cool. If you are doing P2, don't stop at the first tree with rings and slings, go all the way to the ledge with the pinnacle. Belay P2 from there. Climb the pinnacle to the right angled off width. It's akward, fun, juggy. Jam some gear at the ceiling and traverse right on HUGE hands and smallish feet. Create a belay 15 feet to the right. We finished up on No Glow. It's a great link up; another great airy traverse with big hands and a huge throw (I am only 5'2") to get over the roof. ONce over the roof you are on some very strange rock; it's hollow. It's like a giant flake sitting on top of the rock underneath. Very strange. Aug 14, 2010