Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Willie Crowther, Bill Homeyer, Mike Levin, 1961
Page Views: 2,396 total · 16/month
Shared By: Artem Lebedev on Sep 4, 2008
Admins: RJ B

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

P1: Move past a difficult boulder problem (crux) to get to a thin crack about 7 feet above the ground. Follow the crack to a bulge, and then climb the easy face above to the GT ledge. (5.9+, 100 ft.)

P2: Continue straight up to a ledge and climb a pillar (V1, V2) to the base of a flaring crack. Climb the crack to the ceiling and then hand traverse ~15' right to a small ledge with a bush. (5.9-, 110 ft.) Belay from here to avoid a rope drag.

- V1 Climb the overhang left of the crack to join V3. 5.10 PG. FA: John Myers, Mike Freeman, 1980.
- V2 Move out right from the arch then angle left across the wall to the top. 5.10 PG. FA: Rich Romano, 1970s.
- V3 From the top of the crack, climb a roof to the foot of an arch. Swing out left, then on to the top. 5.10 PG. FA: Rich Perch, John Bragg, 1970s.

P3: Climb an obvious corner up to an anchor (5.8, not recommended). Also see comments below for better options.

Descent: Three rappels from bolted anchors over No Glow will get you to the ground with a single rope.

Location

Start ~100 feet right of Andrew, below a short thin crack that starts just above head height.

Protection

Big cams and long extenders are useful.

Photos