Easy Verschneidung (Easy V)
Avg: 2.6 from 102 votes
|Type:||Trad, 260 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Fritz Weissner and Hans Kraus|
|Page Views:||8,293 total · 65/month|
|Shared By:||Taino Grosjean on Aug 16, 2007|
DescriptionThe first pitch of Easy V is beautiful, easy climbing; it's a new favorite of mine for beginner climbers. The holds are generally buckets, and the feet are always there. There's an obvious crux half-way up, but with a little thought a beginner would have no problem. The belay anchor is best built off to the climber's right, even though the route comes up to the climber's left. There's a bolted rappel station climber's far left; a 60m rope will bring you back to some ledges above the pathway, with an easy scramble down.
P1: Go up right and follow the huge corner to the GT Ledge. Observe the fixed ring piton left by the first ascent party (it's now over 60 years old).
P2 involves walking about 60 feet to the right along the GT Ledge. P3 begins after you round a corner on the GT ledge in a small grove of pine trees. Look for an off-width with a small roof overhead.
P3 is a frikken joke at 5.3. Any 5.3 leader attempting this pitch is going to have the everliving bejeezuz scared out of them. It's an interesting sequence, and the two cruxes are protected, but I'd give the moves at least 5.5 due to the awkwardness.