Type: Trad, 260 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Fritz Weissner and Hans Kraus
Page Views: 8,860 total · 64/month
Shared By: Taino Grosjean on Aug 16, 2007
Admins: JSH

You & This Route

107 Opinions

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The first pitch of Easy V is beautiful, easy climbing; it's a new favorite of mine for beginner climbers. The holds are generally buckets, and the feet are always there. There's an obvious crux half-way up, but with a little thought a beginner would have no problem. The belay anchor is best built off to the climber's right, even though the route comes up to the climber's left. There's a bolted rappel station climber's far left; a 60m rope will bring you back to some ledges above the pathway, with an easy scramble down.

P1: Go up right and follow the huge corner to the GT Ledge. Observe the fixed ring piton left by the first ascent party (it's now over 60 years old).

P2 involves walking about 60 feet to the right along the GT Ledge. P3 begins after you round a corner on the GT ledge in a small grove of pine trees. Look for an off-width with a small roof overhead.

P3 is a frikken joke at 5.3. Any 5.3 leader attempting this pitch is going to have the everliving bejeezuz scared out of them. It's an interesting sequence, and the two cruxes are protected, but I'd give the moves at least 5.5 due to the awkwardness.


Same start as Arrow.


Good protection throughout the route, with the majority being smaller pieces. Gear anchors at each belay. From the top, make the final topout and then walk back (left) over to the Arrow area to rappel its bolted line.


Decatur, GA
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
Very fun route for the grade, nicer than some of the 5.5 pitches I've been on at the Gunks. Agree that the final pitch would be a real rude awakening for a 5.3 leader. Sep 29, 2007
John Peterson
John Peterson  
There's plenty of 5.3 leaders at the Gunks! It's probably the only climbing area where anyone would argue about whether a route is 5.3 or 5.4.

One thing about the last pitch of Easy V is that it scares seconds as well as leaders. Even though the crux is inside a chimney with almost no exposure it's scary. I've seen a number of seconds turn into screaming, blubbering, moaning wrecks there after having no problem with the first pitch. The move is only 5.3 but it's not a normal "reach up for the next hold" sort of place. Sep 26, 2008
Robbie Flick
Baltimore, MD
Robbie Flick   Baltimore, MD
As a beginner trad leader, I absolutely loved this route. Well within my ability with many opportunities to practice placing pro. Long, easy, fun, and well-protected. Unlike many other beginner routes, this one is still loads of fun despite the grade. A great introduction to leading at the Gunks. Sep 5, 2010
Alicia Sokolowski
Brooklyn, NY
Alicia Sokolowski   Brooklyn, NY
I thought this climb was super easy. I am a complete beginner (First year climbing) and to me, P3 was actually easier than P1. However, when I was up there, we had real trouble finding the start. What I think is that the actual P3 (what seems to match the written description in the gray Dick) looks less traveled (not quite as clean) than a variation which appears to match the photo in the gray Dick. The two starts are only about eight feet apart, and we went with the one on the left. It was a cakewalk. The one on the right was clean as a whistle, so it sees a lot of traffic, but it seems much harder looking up from the bottom. Nov 16, 2010
Did this one today- P1 was wet but otherwise has nice climbing; seems if you stay left there's better pro. P3 is definitely a good way to get a beginning leader to soil his pants! I totally agree with the original description that 5.3 "is a frikken joke" (and my old copy of Swain calls it a "5.2+"!). The crux move out of the chimney felt harder than any 5.4 I've done at the Gunks, harder than Horseman or Sixish for that matter. Overall has nice climbing, good exposure on P3, and clean rock. Apr 30, 2011
Fort Collins, CO
Kurtz   Fort Collins, CO
It's easy to stop too soon on P3. It seems you're at the top then, after you build your anchor, you notice there's another 25 ft. of climbing. Jun 21, 2015
New York City, NY
RichBeBe   New York City, NY
I agree with the "oops" finish. I did P1+2 together to GT ledge. Then I did P3, and as a new leader I was hesitant in the chimney, but it wasn't hard, just heady. Sadly I stopped before the top on a ledge and built an anchor and brought my second up. Then I realized there was no way down, so did the last 25 feet, and walked to the Arrow anchors. Nov 14, 2015
Oma Kassim  
This route was great! I did P1&2 together to the GT ledge (didn't realize it was 2 separate pitches), which was a nice corner climb but P3 is definitely the money pitch. Loved pulling out around the corner on P3. I'm a newer leader and I thought it was totally fine and true to the grade. I did get a little lost up top - the tree that it says to belay at is definitely dead. What I did was top out (the true top, so you're near level with the arrow rappels which are climber's left) and slung a giant pine tree. From here, you can lower yourself 20' back down on a munter so you can belay up/communicate with your follower. Mar 14, 2016
P3 (really P2) crux is very unique, but not very physically strenuous, so I think the rating is reasonable. I found it useful to press my shoulders into the rock to jam myself into the opening while I placed a sweet green camalot sized piece into a horizontal and felt around for holds before rounding the corner. I don't think anyone should have bejeezuz scared out of them leading it as the route descriptions says. The gear is great. Last pitch is as safe of a lead as they come. Much more so than the pitch to the GT ledge. Aug 27, 2017
Fan Zhang
Washington, DC
Fan Zhang   Washington, DC
As of 9/1/17, there is (still) a loose block on the first pitch the size of a mini-fridge. It's roughly 3/4 of the way up the pitch and is extremely loose. Sep 5, 2017
Jonathan Keller
Fresh Meadows, NY
Jonathan Keller   Fresh Meadows, NY
Climbed this yesterday. My friend told me to stay off the corner, and to stay on the face to the left. From images and descriptions, it seems that that is actually slightly off route? It was my first lead in Trapps (had only led some easy stuff in Peterskill prior), but climbing the face seemed a little stiffer than 5.3 would imply? Oct 12, 2017
Albi Eds
Brooklyn, NY
Albi Eds   Brooklyn, NY
Sent a first timer up this first pitch. He managed but didn't retain the beta of an anchor to the right, managed to place a mediocre anchor just above the top-out on the GT Ledge, but yeah, go to the right after topping out, nice big fist size crack to place all the pro you have left.

2nd pitch was fun for the two moves under the roof, can easily top out from there. Good 5.3, not the best, but good. Sep 24, 2018