Type: Trad, 260 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Fritz Weissner and Hans Kraus
Page Views: 9,836 total · 63/month
Shared By: Taino Grosjean on Aug 16, 2007
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

The first pitch of Easy V is beautiful, easy climbing; it's a new favorite of mine for beginner climbers. The holds are generally buckets, and the feet are always there. There's an obvious crux half-way up, but with a little thought a beginner would have no problem. The belay anchor is best built off to the climber's right, even though the route comes up to the climber's left. There's a bolted rappel station climber's far left; a 60m rope will bring you back to some ledges above the pathway, with an easy scramble down.

P1: Go up right and follow the huge corner to the GT Ledge. Observe the fixed ring piton left by the first ascent party (it's now over 60 years old).

P2 involves walking about 60 feet to the right along the GT Ledge. P3 begins after you round a corner on the GT ledge in a small grove of pine trees. Look for an off-width with a small roof overhead.

P3 is a frikken joke at 5.3. Any 5.3 leader attempting this pitch is going to have the everliving bejeezuz scared out of them. It's an interesting sequence, and the two cruxes are protected, but I'd give the moves at least 5.5 due to the awkwardness.

Location

Same start as Arrow.

Protection

Good protection throughout the route, with the majority being smaller pieces. Gear anchors at each belay. From the top, make the final topout and then walk back (left) over to the Arrow area to rappel its bolted line.

Photos