Avg: 3.9 from 42 votes
|Type:||Trad, 150 ft (45 m)|
|FA:||Jim Damon and Felix Modugno, 1984|
|Page Views:||13,261 total · 74/month|
|Shared By:||JJ Schlick on Oct 23, 2006|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Start up the face and corner of Hans' Puss. You can climb the corner, or just left of it, for ~60 feet. When the corner turns roofy and heads left, look up and out behind you for a line of chalked holds. Bouldery moves get you established on the tiers, then lead to long static or dynamic moves between jugs until you reach the final lip encounter. At the lip, some bouldering strength is helpful to pull over via small crimps. Just after the lip make a great dyno for a good bucket, and then follow weakness and horizontals to the GT ledge and a wire belay around a tree. 150 feet, 12a PG.
There is a second pitch that goes at 12a as well, though it did not look like it sees much action.