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Routes in h. The Arrow Wall - CCK

Amber Waves of Pain T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Andrew T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Android-Moby Dick link-up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Annie Oh! T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arrow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
CCK Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Cold Turkeys T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Crack' N Up T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Deep Lichen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Diana T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Verschneidung (Easy V) T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Erect Direction T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Face to Face T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Feast of Fools T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hans' Puss T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hawkeye T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jim's Gem T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Keep on Struttin' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Last Will Be First, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Limelight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lost and Found T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Man's Quest for Flight T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Moby Dick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Modern Times T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moonlight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
No Glow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nurse's Aid T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Proctor Silex T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Proctoscope T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Quiver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Red Pillar T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Silhouette T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Smilin' the Hard Way T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Steep Hikin' T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Step Lively T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Strolling on Jupiter T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Supper's Ready T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Three Doves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Vultures T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Three Vultures Direct T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Traverse of the Clods T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Twilight Zone T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c C1
Unholy Wick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Updraft T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wop Stop T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Jim Damon and Felix Modugno, 1984
Page Views: 10,028 total, 74/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Oct 23, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

Supper's Ready is one of the Gunks' definitive multi-tiered roof routes, if not the granddaddy of 'em all.

Start up the face and corner of Hans' Puss. You can climb the corner, or just left of it, for ~60 feet. When the corner turns roofy and heads left, look up and out behind you for a line of chalked holds. Bouldery moves get you established on the tiers, then lead to long static or dynamic moves between jugs until you reach the final lip encounter. At the lip, some bouldering strength is helpful to pull over via small crimps. Just after the lip make a great dyno for a good bucket, and then follow weakness and horizontals to the GT ledge and a wire belay around a tree. 150 feet, 12a PG.

There is a second pitch that goes at 12a as well, though it did not look like it sees much action.

Location

Right of Nurse's Aid, and left of Hans' Puss.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack; you may want a #3.5 Camalot.

As of Dec. 2015, there is a fixed anchor of cams and Tricams above the hard climbing and below the GT ledge that allows you to lower off with a 70m, but keep an eye on (or knot) the end of the rope, it can be really close depending on where your belayer is standing.
Jon Po
Mahwah, NJ
  5.12a
Jon Po   Mahwah, NJ
  5.12a
Damn this thing is hard! Fixed nuts are gone as of 5/21/2017. Anchor looks good enough still. Still no fixed anything as of 10/27/2017! May 22, 2017
Josh Squire
East Boston, MA
Josh Squire   East Boston, MA
Very bouldery with BIG moves. I hung on all three cruxes. Super fun climbing. From the anchor, you can lower with a 70m rope. Will take a little work and commitment to those moves. There are two fixed nuts. One at the first crux, one at the last. Oct 17, 2016
GabrielKoybz
Brooklyn
 
GabrielKoybz   Brooklyn
 
No more fixed pro as of 10/16. Anchor before the gt is still there and still bomber. Apr 19, 2016
kendallt
Tahoe
kendallt   Tahoe
From the same fixed tricam anchor with a 60m rope you can rappel to the small ledge with a tree on it, and walk off left.

Once again watch the ends it's really close, if not a foot or two short. Dec 22, 2015
SethG  
Nice, Simon-- pretty good tick for late December! Dec 21, 2015
Simon Thompson
New Paltz, NY
  5.12a
Simon Thompson   New Paltz, NY
  5.12a
As of yesterday (12/20/15) there is a fixed anchor of cams and Tricams above the hard climbing and below the GT ledge that allows you to lower off with a 70m, but keep an eye on(or knot) the end of the rope, it can be really close depending on where your belayer is standing.

Awesome, pumpy route with two short bouldery cruxes separated by the biggest holds you'll ever be tempted to fall off of. Clean falls and great gear. Two fixed wires below each crux significantly reduces the pump of placing gear in those sections so really no reason not to go for it even if it's near your limit. Sick line. Dec 21, 2015
monkeyvanya
Denver, CO
monkeyvanya   Denver, CO
My friend lead it placing gear, then we both did a pinkpoint run for the camera:
youtube.com/watch?v=7DHn1xG…
youtube.com/watch?v=LtZoaea… Sep 6, 2012
Dan Flynn
MA
 
Dan Flynn   MA  
 
Possible to TR after leading up to the ledge (e.g. by Feast of Fools) with a 70m rope. Take some webbing for a long anchor off of the big tree.

Bonus: massive airtime on each miss...

Also no reason not to go for the lead, with fixed gear in place at (for me) both crux moves. Apr 6, 2012
Evan Stevens
  5.12a
Evan Stevens  
  5.12a
Definitely easier for taller folks, as the moves are quite big between really good holds. Oct 9, 2011
Jon H
MD/DC
Jon H   MD/DC
Hangdogged this thing all day long. Super burly. Oct 30, 2010
I felt like a fat kid chasing the ice cream truck after doing this route!!! May 18, 2007