Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Russ Raffa & Mark Robinson - 1977
Page Views: 18,925 total · 119/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Feb 23, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route

168 Opinions

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Feast of Fools begins near the same corner and roof system of Nurse's Aid and Hans' Puss.

P1 (5.10b, 75'): Begin just right of the start of Hans' Puss (the rightmost, steepest corner). Climb this ever-steepening corner system until you reach the first of several roofs. Pull this roof and step left to a rest. Pull the second roof into an overhung corner protected by the lone remaining fixed pin. Creative stemming and reaches will get you to easier terrain (joining with Hans' Puss here) which is followed around the corner of the buttress to the right and belay at two bolts. A great pitch.

P2 (5.10a, 70'): The crux section (a few moves of 9++) is cool. Head up off the belay to the small roof band above. Breach the roof with fingerlocks into a narrow, left-facing corner. Belay at an oak tree on the GT ledge.


Standard Rack.
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
Josh's description of P1 is a little misleading. It sounds like you hand traverse right at the first roof and around the corner. Actually. You hand traverse right a few moves (too far right is cheating), pull the roof then angle left on steep and poorly protected rock to small ceiling leading into an inside corner. Getting into that corner is the real crux, and is very awkward. Above this is another bulge at which you traverse straight right to the belay. The photo of Rich Goldstone above the first roof makes this all clear.

Josh also doesn't mention the third, easier pitch from the GT ledge to the top. Feb 23, 2006
Josh Janes

Josh Janes    
Sorry Ivan, after doing a zillion Gunks routes in the course of a year, my memory is hazy. Your photos bring it back though, and I edited the description accordingly. Feb 24, 2006
Mike fenice
Boulder, CO
Mike fenice   Boulder, CO
This is a great tough lead and placing gear is very pumpy. I wouldn't leave my #4 Camalot on the ground...? Watch out for the pins at the crux; they're junk. One is definitely better then the other, but still junk. Jul 17, 2006
P2 doesn't see much traffic, but is absolutely clean, nice and technical. The short corner tests different skills than the first pitch and is well worth of climbing.
The beginning of the corner is protected nicely by nuts, then it is a small runout until the 9ish moves are over. The lower angle face below the corner is where you land if you fall. Not a bad fall, but be ready not to sprain your ankles needlessly (still, it IS a PG). Nov 5, 2007
Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
Paul Hunnicutt   Boulder, CO
I used two small cams - green and yellow alien, then also a .4 BD below the first roof. I got a solid #3 BD below the crap pins...a #4 would certainly work and offer more possible placements, but one #3 seemed sufficient for this route. May 1, 2008
Rui Ferreira
Boulder, CO
Rui Ferreira   Boulder, CO
A 0.5 flexible Friend backs up the pins. It slots in vertically about three inches above and to the left of the upper of the two pins.

I found the pitch to be well protected bottom to top. Nov 18, 2008
Do the 2nd pitch! I do not know why guidebook does not recommend it. Great stemming 5.10a second pitch. Aug 6, 2009
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
I seconded both pitches. P1 is sustained and pumpy, but, the holds are great and even this shorty had little difficulty pulling the roofs. P2 is more technical but equally entertaining. Although short, it is a good pitch. Aug 16, 2009
Jaysen Henderson
Brooklyn NY
Jaysen Henderson   Brooklyn NY
This route is so awesome! It's pretty wild how isolated you feel once you're under the first massive roof. Once you commit to it and get on top, the real crux is juggy and just a little awkward. Also, I'd suggest against placing gear in the flake on the first roof, seeing how it's not actually attached to the cliff. Jul 5, 2011
Colin R
Ottawa, ON
  5.10c PG13
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
  5.10c PG13
This route felt hard and sketchy to me - the gear is wierd around the roof and I didn't trust most of it until I pulled above. The pins are a bit sketch too. I took a couple nasty falls - one just at the roof after getting a big 3.5 cam placed in the flake (yes it does hold) and once again up high near the pins. Felt harder than "Try Again" - 10c if you ask me Mar 18, 2012
bheller   SL UT
Specifically, a .4 grey camalot with the lobes oriented properly protects in a vertical crack above and right of the twin pins at the crux. Mar 26, 2012
Maynard, MA
Eric8   Maynard, MA
I thought this was one of the better protected 5.10's at the gunks I have done. I did put a screamer on one of the pins, but even if those blew the #3 camalot just below would catch you after a big but clean fall. Apr 8, 2013
I fell on the pins. They held! :) May 1, 2013
Gunks, NY
Gunks   Gunks, NY
I climbed the first big roof to the left then angle right to the pins to pull the crux. Has anyone done it that way? Nov 3, 2013
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
That pin on the P1 crux is pretty rusted and manky-looking. The moves are straightforward and I thought it best to just go for it with a #3 C4 below me.

I took a nice fall on P2. It's not as obvious where to go up there but the moves are really fun. You can get a really good blue Mastercam sized piece up in the crack of the open book.

Do P3...it's a fun little jaunt to the top. Scramble up to the very top of the cliff after your 2nd comes up. You can walk south to the rap anchor atop Arrow. Jun 23, 2014
RyderS Stroud
Liming, Yunnan Province, CN
RyderS Stroud   Liming, Yunnan Province, CN
Don't sweat over the pin at the crux (there is only 1 now). The gear below you is bomber (REALLY bomber), and a few more moves will get you to great placements before the exit to the belay.

Also, when you reach the first roof, wait until the pancake flake to drop in some gear. Protecting in the corner before moving out right looked like it would create some hideous rope drag into the crux... but some folks might not like the reliability of that flake... Aug 11, 2014
Alissa Doherty
Boston, MA
Alissa Doherty   Boston, MA
Such a fun route that protects really well! While I agree with the last comment that placing pro in the corner below the first roof would create awful rope drag, you can get a very nice small cam along the right end of the inside rail before reaching out to the roof. With a double-length this didn't create any drag issue for me and inspired a lot more confidence before leaning wayyy out there :) May 4, 2015
Kingston, ny
EricBacus   Kingston, ny
Great climb.

The second pitch is clearly easier but the crux is easy to mess up. I didn't place any nuts cause the fall looked super clean. The landing is deceptively slabby and I sprained my ankle! Recommend placing the tinny nut or stretching out your ankles really well. Jun 23, 2015
Sorry about your injury, Eric. Jun 24, 2015
Pawel Janowski
Pawel Janowski   WA
P2 has some really nice climbing, but don't get fooled by the 9++ description. It's hard to read on-sight, I think harder than P1. Like Eric said above, if you fall from the top of the crux, watch that ankle. I was fortunate enough to only get it banged up (along with rope burn and bruises;)

Fixed brown tricam protects the P2 crux though you can back it up with as much bomber gear as you want. Jul 25, 2015
Jon Po
Mahwah, NJ
Jon Po   Mahwah, NJ
The pin on the first pitch can probably be backed up with a 000 C3 or 00 C3. I tried putting a .4 x4 and .4 c4 in the pod above the pin and it's really not confidence inspiring. If you clip the number 3 camalot short you certainly won't deck if you peel off of the pitch 1 crux anyway. I would recommend basketing a single length runner into the steel loop of the number 3 to avoid a cross loaded racking biner! Aug 28, 2015
M Bageant
Los Angeles, CA
M Bageant   Los Angeles, CA
Incredible route. Both P1 and P2 are less burly than they appear and can be made much more reasonable with some creative stemming. P1 is harder physically but more straightforward, P2 much harder to read but not as physically strenuous.

As of April 2017 the P1 pin is still there. I also could not find any way to back it up that inspired confidence. But 4 feet or so below the pin you can get in a bomber 3 and 4 Camalot a few feet apart. Also the difficulties quickly die down after the moves at the pin, so don't sweat it.

The inscrutable P2 crux protects really well. I put a small nut into the crack and whipped twice on that sucker...left it behind yesterday, but should it disappear know that a bomber #5 Stopper can be had. A small cam (blue Alien) can go in a bit above the nut as well.

The fixed brown tricam at the base of the P2 corner looks pretty ratty, I did not clip it.

Also after pulling the P2 crux, I climbed up and left to the roof and out left to a rest. You can finish this way by hand traversing left under the roof to its end and then going up some licheny ledges, but it felt like ending the route with a whimper instead of a bang. The gray Dick has the route exiting to the right above the crux corner and then going straight up to the small oak tree. Apr 18, 2017
Logan Schiff
Brooklyn, NY
Logan Schiff   Brooklyn, NY
Yellow totem basic (alien clone) seemed decent right above the pin.

We retrieved the nut on p2. Slid right out, perhaps due to weather changes. Very unintimidating pitch though given the ample gear opportunities through the short crux. Finished on Traverse of the Clods for an epic 3-4 pitches of climbing. May 17, 2017
chewtoynj   NJ
I fit a very snug metolious 00 (gray) next to the pin. It's a great route and well protected. Sep 8, 2017