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Routes in h. The Arrow Wall - CCK

Amber Waves of Pain T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Andrew T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Android-Moby Dick link-up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Annie Oh! T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arrow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
CCK Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Cold Turkeys T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Crack' N Up T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Deep Lichen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Diana T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Verschneidung (Easy V) T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Erect Direction T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Face to Face T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Feast of Fools T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hans' Puss T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hawkeye T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jim's Gem T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Keep on Struttin' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Last Will Be First, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Limelight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lost and Found T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Man's Quest for Flight T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Moby Dick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Modern Times T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moonlight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
No Glow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nurse's Aid T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Proctor Silex T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Proctoscope T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Quiver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Red Pillar T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Silhouette T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Smilin' the Hard Way T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Steep Hikin' T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Step Lively T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Strolling on Jupiter T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Supper's Ready T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Three Doves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Vultures T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Traverse of the Clods T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Twilight Zone T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c C1
Unholy Wick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Updraft T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wop Stop T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Ants Leemets and Elmer Skahan 1965
Page Views: 1,826 total, 18/month
Shared By: Anthony Baraff on Sep 27, 2009
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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History

From Ivan Rezucha: Annie O'Neill and I named this climb. We did what we thought was the FA (other than for a pesky fixed pin) back in the 80s. Because of the pin, we named it "Lost and Found". It was done (apparently by Ants Leemets), then lost, then found again (by us).

Description

My main reason for posting this route is that I've found myself standing below it on two separate occasions when I was looking for Last Will be First.

The first time I climbed it, and only realized I was on something else 20 feet or so above the first roof. The second time, two other people who had previously climbed Last Will be First looked up and agreed we were at the start -- fortunately, I realized we were below Lost and Found and moved us right, finally getting a chance to lead Last Will be First.

P1: Climb the 4-foot-high left-facing corner and crack, aiming for the right side of a 15-foot-long overhang. Step up and right around the overhang before traversing back left 10 feet or so. Climb straight up the face through a bulging section to the GT Ledge and an oak tree belay/rap station. 5.6 PG, 150 feet.

Location

Located between Unholy Wick (35 feet to the left) and The Last Will be First (20 feet to the right).

Protection

Standard Gunks rack, good gear G/PG all the way

Photos

Rob D.
Brooklyn, NY
 
Rob D.   Brooklyn, NY
 
If you go straight up through the seem at the roof instead of walking across to the left it is a handful of thoughtful and well protected 5.9 moves to the bolts. Unfortunately this set of bolts is often filled with rappel parties. Sep 17, 2017
Just climbed this one, quite enjoyable. I didn't find the lower section runout and was able to place 3 pieces before the small roof. Used lots of small to medium sized cams and no nuts (all under .75 camelot) for the whole pitch. Of course, YMMV. Nice to finish on P2 of The Last Will Be First. Nov 10, 2016
I climbed this today and really enjoyed the challenge (!) of getting gear in the lower section. I know I tried to climb the pitch several years ago by going straight up the thin seams that are directly above as you exit the overhang. I don't remember exactly what happened on that earlier attempt except that I DID NOT LIKE the moves up the seam. So heed the book and traverse left along the overhang (or take V1). Oct 27, 2015
BrianRH
Jersey City, NJ
  5.8
BrianRH   Jersey City, NJ
  5.8
The variation that goes straight up towards the bolts after the first roof (skipping the leftward travese in the beta photo) is probably 5.8 or so. Nice climb. Jun 8, 2014
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
Annie O'Neill and I named this climb. We did what we thought was the FA (other than for a pesky fixed pin) back in the 80s. Because of the pin, we named it "Lost and Found". It was done (apparently by Ants Leemets), then lost, then found again (by us). Apr 18, 2013
JeanGClimbs
Reading, VT
JeanGClimbs   Reading, VT
I agree this is tougher than 5.6 as I climbed it right after climbing Last Will Be First which is a solid 6. The crux is relatively low and can be protected albeit with very small gear. It took me a long time to figure out the move, which could probably be done in a variety of ways, depending on what you decide to use for feet (essentially extremely thin.) I would not say this route is dirty, although I only climbed to the rap anchors at about 70 or 80 feet - the rest of the way to the GT ledge looked dirty and unappealing. Worth doing I think if you are in the area and like thin face climbing. Apr 15, 2013
Amy R Wilson
  5.7 PG13
Amy R Wilson  
  5.7 PG13
This is very runout on thin moves until just below the roof. I'd say 5.7 until the first tree, and then 5.4 to the oak tree. And, oh, so dirty. May 5, 2012
DEF
Boston, MA
DEF   Boston, MA
My older version of the Todd Swain book lists this climb at 5.8 pg. Definitely a runout at the bottom. Fun route but fair warning I would lean towards calling this hard 5.7 at best with a spicy runout down low. Nov 28, 2011