Avg: 1.9 from 35 votes
|Type:||Trad, 150 ft (45 m)|
|FA:||Ants Leemets and Elmer Skahan 1965|
|Page Views:||2,720 total · 19/month|
|Shared By:||Anthony Baraff on Sep 27, 2009|
|Admins:||RJ B, Morgan Patterson|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
The first time I climbed it, and only realized I was on something else 20 feet or so above the first roof. The second time, two other people who had previously climbed Last Will be First looked up and agreed we were at the start -- fortunately, I realized we were below Lost and Found and moved us right, finally getting a chance to lead Last Will be First.
P1: Climb the 4-foot-high left-facing corner and crack, aiming for the right side of a 15-foot-long overhang. Step up and right around the overhang before traversing back left 10 feet or so. Climb straight up the face through a bulging section to the GT Ledge. 5.6 PG, 150 feet.
Rappel down the bolted line over The Last Will Be First to climbers' right.