Avg: 2.6 from 13 votes
|Type:||Trad, 100 ft (30 m)|
|FA:||1950s Hans Kraus and friends|
|Page Views:||2,623 total · 21/month|
|Shared By:||Michael _ on Aug 18, 2010|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Starting just right of the major Twilight Zone corner, climb the easy face to a flaky right-facing corner to the overhang, then traverse right and up a groove to a ledge and left-facing flake. Take the flake to the overhang above, traverse left across a white face, and up into the V-notch (crux). Climb past the overhang to the top.
Rappel: head to climber's right. Three rappels from bolted anchors over No Glow will get you to the ground with a single rope.