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Routes in h. The Arrow Wall - CCK

Amber Waves of Pain T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Andrew T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Android-Moby Dick link-up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Annie Oh! T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arrow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
CCK Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Cold Turkeys T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Crack' N Up T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Deep Lichen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Diana T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Verschneidung (Easy V) T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Erect Direction T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Face to Face T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Feast of Fools T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hans' Puss T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hawkeye T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jim's Gem T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Keep on Struttin' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Last Will Be First, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Limelight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lost and Found T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Man's Quest for Flight T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Moby Dick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Modern Times T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moonlight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
No Glow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nurse's Aid T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Proctor Silex T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Proctoscope T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Quiver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Red Pillar T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Silhouette T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Smilin' the Hard Way T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Steep Hikin' T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Step Lively T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Strolling on Jupiter T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Supper's Ready T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Three Doves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Vultures T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Three Vultures Direct T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Traverse of the Clods T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Twilight Zone T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c C1
Unholy Wick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Updraft T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wop Stop T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Art Gran, Dick Williams, 1965
Page Views: 1,871 total · 17/month
Shared By: Dana Bartlett on Nov 26, 2009
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

1. Climb the short, right-facing corner to its top. Traverse out left about 10 feet on a small ledge, then climb the face (this can be done in several places and there is no very obvious line) for 20 feet or so. Diagonal up and right until near the arete and below the roof. After the roof, go up and left to the base of an obvious crack. Climb the crack (crux) and belay on the GT ledge. 5.7+, 130 feet.

2. Scramble up to a large ledge. Climb up and left and out onto the face. Go up past a bulge, then go left again to the top. 5.7-, 100 feet.

Location

From the Arrow wall, walk right and down the hill. Go past the front of the buttress, then look for a very large, right-facing corner. Silhouette goes up the buttress just left of the corner.

Most people start this route by easily scrambling up and left about 30 feet or so to a comfortable ledge that is at the base of this corner. From this ledge, you should easily see the shallow right-facing corner that starts the route.

Protection

Standard 'Gunks rack

Photos

kenr  
I followed it, Karl did a great job of leading both pitches. Lots of interesting moves. First section of P1 kinda scary. Some details ...

start: We scrambled up diagonally left to roughly the same start as Andrew and set up our belay there. There was discussion of more difficult + direct ways we could have reached that point.

P1 - the "traverse out left", I would say "despite the _lack_ of a ledge" -- hands not positive, feet not obvious, rather balancy, rather exposed -- and not sure how far to keep traversing, when to start going upward. Glad I wasn't leading it, I'd be thinking about taking a big swing back to the right.

After P1 we walked about 15 feet left on the ledge to below a broken off-width crack, and from there Karl started leading

P2 - Up the crack and to the large R-facing corner. But instead of climbing the corner, work left on big holds, diagonal up to a little pointy rock. Which was a bit loose, so Karl didn't place any pro behind it, instead got a couple of cams into the horizontal nearby. Then a little more left and up to a ledge. Oct 19, 2011
wallie
Los Angeles, CA
 
wallie   Los Angeles, CA
 
try bouldering from the ground up for a spicier start. On the runout section of the 1st pitch, try staying on the right instead of heading left unless you either a) going for the 5.8 roof or b) have a super long sling to avoid the rope drag. Jun 14, 2012
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
  5.7+ R
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
  5.7+ R
This is a beautiful pitch, but the start is definitely spicy. From the top of the initial right-facing pedestal there is an obvious horizontal heading out left. We tried it both as a foot traverse and then as a hand traverse. The hand traverse felt more reasonable---so, step down off the pedestal and then go left with your hands in the horizontal. After about 15 feet, make the crux moves up (sort of a two-move wonder) and then find larger holds leading up and right (passing a piton or two) until you can skirt the little overhang on its right end. After that, just head up on nice ground toward the obvious hand crack. If you've ever done much jamming you will find the hand crack trivial compared to the crux face moves right off the deck while facing a BIG, swinging, and probably very nasty fall. Easy to do in one pitch. Sep 18, 2013
Pawel Janowski
WA
  5.7+ PG13
Pawel Janowski   WA
  5.7+ PG13
Good description from Peter Lewis but I wouldn't call it R: there's good gear in the horizontal just before the 2 harder moves. Not so good gear after that but it's there hence PG-13 sounds right. Upper hands crack is awesome. One of my favorite 5.7 for sure! Sep 29, 2014
Keyan P
Seattle, WA
  5.7+ R
Keyan P   Seattle, WA
  5.7+ R
This is most definitely R. After the shallow right facing corner right at the beginning of the first pitch there isn't any gear until you reach a rusted piton and a shallow horizontal that barely takes a #1. That's about 30ft (?) from the last piece. A fall before clipping that piton would mean a nasty swinging factor-2 fall. Thankfully the crux of the face section comes after the gear. After the sketchy stuff you get safe technical face climbing that leads to a cool short splitter crack and the anchor.

Overall a fun route that clearly doesn't get climbed much based on the lichen growing on it :) Mar 15, 2016

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