Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dick WIlliams, Dave Craft, & Brian Carey - 1964
Page Views: 29,198 total · 187/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Feb 21, 2006 with updates from Kurtz
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


285 Opinions

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Description

Modern Times pulls a pretty wild roof on the second pitch - hard to believe it's only 5.8+.

Use the High Exposure access trail to reach Modern Times.

Start 30' left of High Exposure below a slabby left-facing corner.

P1 (5.7, 150'): Climb the corner and angle right to a dirt ledge. Climb up and a bit left and pass an overhang (crux) to the GT ledge.

P2 (5.8+, 100'): Go 20' left and climb to the top of a huge flake. Traverse right to a notch in the roof at the top of the wall (there's a small tree growing horizontally out of the roof). Pull the roof (crux), continue up right past more overhangs, and traverse right to a belay on a small ledge.

Bring up your partner, then scramble to the top.

Rappel down the bolted line over The Last Will Be First to climbers' left, or the High E bolted rappel line to climbers' right.

Protection

Standard Rack.
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
 
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
 
Fun face climbing on the first pitch, and classic, pumpy Gunks overhangs on the second. This route would be solid 5.9 at many other climbing areas. Two kneebar rests can be found on the second-pitch overhangs to ease the pump factor. Feb 27, 2006
Adam Catalano
Albany, New York
 
Adam Catalano   Albany, New York
 
The roofs seemed much easier the second time. A) Because I was following this time and B) because I used the killer undercling to reach over the first/largest roof. Gaining the final ledge is the crux for me, as the flakes in front of you are super loose (like don't grab them at all) and it requires a high right foot and SCARY manteling, with huge swing potential. May 9, 2006
GabeO
New Haven, CT
  5.8+
GabeO   New Haven, CT
  5.8+
I believe it really is 5.8, but not if you try to pull the last roof too early. You really want to do a low traverse, and then mantle once you get to where the hands and feet are better. Oct 23, 2006
Mr. Malloc
  5.9
Mr. Malloc  
  5.9
The most sand-bagged route in the Gunks. So many people have fallen off this route. The most exposure you can have without a license.

Try the exciting variation that I call Post-Modern times, if you dare...and you feel up to a 5.10a or 5.10b pump-fest. From the tree that sticks straight out from the cliff in the last pitch....instead of going up and right...go straight right...your hands stay at the tree level as you traverse for 20 feet. As you go, do chin-ups to place big (Yellow and Blue Camalots) in the perfect crack. As you traverse, your foot holds move farther away and then come back again. Just before you get to the grassy section, pull up through the 1-foot roof and finish on the clean face above.

Tell me how you like it. Nov 17, 2006
Mobes Mobesely
MDI
  5.9
Mobes Mobesely   MDI
  5.9
follower needs to be solid or know how to prusik! Apr 21, 2008
rgold
Poughkeepsie, NY
rgold   Poughkeepsie, NY
Buy the guide to the Gunks by Zach Orenczak and Rachael Lynn and your prayers will be answered...Modern Times is now 5.10 b/c. Sep 6, 2008
eric larson
aurora, co
  5.8+
eric larson   aurora, co
  5.8+
"Modern Times is now 5.10 b/c"
damn.. that's a wee bit inflated.. compared to other solid 10s in the gunks this felt much easier.. pumpy sure, but no individual moves were that hard.. Moves on, say Feast of Fools, are harder, and I felt the route was just as pumpy.

Besides, half the fun of this route is that it goes at 5.8+.. sandbagged a bit.. sure.. but that's the best part! The + just means exciting! Dec 16, 2008
Jason Antin
Golden, CO
  5.8+
Jason Antin   Golden, CO
  5.8+
I agree Eric, the sandbag is fun ~ at least AFTER you climb it. Is it really 5.10 now???

BETA>>> Gabe is right! First time around, I tried to pull the last roof early and mantle up, mainly because the small horizontals to my right did not look very good, needless to say I went for the big ride. On my second try, I stayed low and moved further right before moving up and I found it to be MUCH easier! Aug 10, 2009
Kalil Oldham
Brooklyn, NY
 
Kalil Oldham   Brooklyn, NY
 
Wild, wild crux. Went up, in the notch (just right of the tree), couldn't get feet up; went up again, tried to use crimpers up on the slabby face, came back down; finally traversed right 10 feet or so and pushed out the huge mantle. Wild. Aug 26, 2009
Suburban Roadside
Abovetraffic on Hudson
Suburban Roadside   Abovetraffic on Hudson
Direct (finish) 5.10,(harder if you are short, but i'm 5'3"): there is a whole pitch as well:
See picture, showing variations. (Try The Trophy Hunter finish,5.11?)

Stay left after the crux, go up the slab /face to the bush under the white capstone
(the bush must be in the way nowadays but provides a gear placement).

Find the amazing hold just above the lip, right of the bush (v1).
Above this are two sharp holes that a short person may need to get to the horizontal.
Get the gear, move up smooth cleaned white rock . . .

(v1) the left exit is short and stout; use crimps /side pulls to gain the ledge above, but don’t touch the block that is sitting on the ledge. Jun 16, 2014
Kurtz
Fort Collins, CO
 
Kurtz   Fort Collins, CO
 
A large cam is very reassuring as you move through the P2 crux. #4 works but a #5 fits with less fiddling.
The High Exposure rappel station (climbers right) gets you down in 3 single rope or 1 double rope rapps. Aug 23, 2015
Jon Po
Mahwah, NJ
  5.8+
Jon Po   Mahwah, NJ
  5.8+
I sewed this climb up and didn't use anything bigger than a number 1 camalot... Do yourself a favor and leave your big cams on the ground! Apr 4, 2016
Isara
  5.10a
Isara  
  5.10a
I've been climbing almost 10 years and this was quite possibly the greatest climb I have ever done in my life!! It was just...not even real. Absolutely the most intense position I have ever been in...and I top-roped the second pitch! 300' feet above the trail (seems more like 700' because the actual floor is so far down) upside down, exposed, struggling through a V1-V2 crux. Don't forget to look down! Thank you so much Jazz and Mylene for randomly picking me up and putting me on this!! May 27, 2016
Jay Harrison
  5.9+
Jay Harrison  
  5.9+
I found this route unappealing. Hadn't done it in 25+ years.
The first pitch is pleasant, but not particularly inspiring jug-hauling, with one exception: the overhang, which is poorly protected (good gear in bad rock). In places, it is getting overgrown. The climbing on other routes nearby ( The Last Will be First ) is better.
I knew the approach to the crux is on a manky stacked tower; but that tower, and many of the holds through the crux, are in much worse shape now. It's a matter of time before that entire route collapses.
Anywhere else in the world, this route would be rated 5.9 or 10a; I think the only reason this route gets attention is its sandbag rating. One can argue there is no move harder than 5.8 on this line, and I would agree. However, if one actually went by this qualification, 5.11 would be highest grade on Earth. Strenuousness counts, and this route by any standard is much more strenuous than 5.8.
Bottom line: if this route were graded 5.9 or 10a, it would not get nearly the attention it receives at its current rating. At 5.9, no one would argue the grade (compare the climbing on this to, for example, Bonnie's Roof or Ant's Line ). At 10a, the only comments would be how over-graded it is. Jun 29, 2017
SethG  
I climbed this route on Saturday just to make sure nothing had changed before I made a comment in response to Jay. I can't speak about 25 years ago, but the "manky stacked tower" on P2 hasn't deteriorated in the past five or six years, and I doubt it has changed at all. You are climbing on a big pile of blocks, but the blocks are huge. It would take a lot to dislodge them.

I happen to agree that the route isn't all that great until you reach the final roof... but once you do, wow! I find it thrilling every time. It is one of the best. Wild and committing. And definitely 5.8. Jul 24, 2017
Torren
Newark, DE
Torren   Newark, DE
This climb was good as the first route of the day. The first pitch is a nice cruiser warm up before the business on P2. The first 3/4 of P2 is pretty weak but once you hit the roof you forget all about it and are doing some wild awesome climbing. Sep 25, 2017
SethG  
There is no bolted belay. After the crux roof, you mantel out onto a great little ledge. This is where I usually belay, because it is a beautiful spot-- I think of it as a park bench in the sky. Also if you belay here you can communicate easily with your follower, which can be important on this route. After your partner joins you on the ledge it is an easy scramble from the right end of the ledge to the trees. Alternatively, you can elect not to stop at the ledge and just do the scramble and belay from a tree at the topout. To descend you can go to the High E rappel route to your right or the Last Will Be First rap route to your left. Feb 13, 2018
Suburban Roadside
Abovetraffic on Hudson
Suburban Roadside   Abovetraffic on Hudson
What SethG says is good beta. In fact there used to be a big tree growing out of that ledge, a exposed "bench in the sky"

There is an excellent direct finish from the end of the crux that goes up left to a bush and no harder climbing up & thru the white cap stone,(see picture)

On the right is an bird poop'd/awkward "bombay" chimney/crawl, 5.7(?) Apr 12, 2018
aparnas
 
aparnas  
 
I rope soloed this just after a rainstorm dumped an inch of water in the gunks. Modern Times was a river. Every single hold, foot smear, and bit of rock I touched was soaking wet. The drips coming off the overhangs was just like rain. But I was the only person on the cliff, and pulling that roof into the bright morning sunlight with nothing below me but a sea of mist was one of the most surreal, magical experiences I've had climbing. Not to mention - if you do have to clean the second pitch by yourself, you can clean your gear and jug up in such a way that you set up a super rad swing out from under the roof (make sure you place a directional at the lip to keep your rope from abrading across the rock). Nothing like swinging out into space 200 ft above the ground! Ten out of four stars.

And definitely 5.8 Nov 25, 2018