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Routes in h. The Arrow Wall - CCK

Amber Waves of Pain T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Andrew T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Android-Moby Dick link-up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Annie Oh! T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arrow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
CCK Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Cold Turkeys T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Crack' N Up T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Deep Lichen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Diana T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Verschneidung (Easy V) T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Erect Direction T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Face to Face T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Feast of Fools T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hans' Puss T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hawkeye T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jim's Gem T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Keep on Struttin' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Last Will Be First, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Limelight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lost and Found T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Man's Quest for Flight T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Moby Dick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Modern Times T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moonlight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
No Glow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nurse's Aid T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Proctor Silex T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Proctoscope T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Quiver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Red Pillar T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Silhouette T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Smilin' the Hard Way T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Steep Hikin' T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Step Lively T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Strolling on Jupiter T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Supper's Ready T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Three Doves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Vultures T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Traverse of the Clods T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Twilight Zone T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c C1
Unholy Wick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Updraft T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wop Stop T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dick WIlliams, Dave Craft, & Brian Carey - 1964
Page Views: 27,048 total, 189/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Feb 21, 2006 with updates
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

Modern Times pulls a pretty wild roof on the second pitch -- hard to believe it's only 5.8+.

Use the High Exposure access trail to reach Modern Times. This is about a 17-min. walk from the Uberfall, and a 13-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road.

Start 30' left of High Exposure below a slabby left-facing corner.

P1: Climb the corner and angle right to a dirt ledge. Climb up and a bit left and pass an overhang (crux) to the GT ledge. 5.7, 150'.

P2: Go 20' left and climb to the top of a huge flake. Traverse right to a notch in the roof at the top of the wall (there's a small tree growing horizontally out of the roof). Pull the roof (crux), continue up right past more overhangs, and traverse right to a belay on a small ledge. 5.8+, 100'.

Bring up your partner, then scramble to the top.

Protection

Standard Rack.
Torren
Newark, DE
Torren   Newark, DE
This climb was good as the first route of the day. The first pitch is a nice cruiser warm up before the business on P2. The first 3/4 of P2 is pretty weak but once you hit the roof you forget all about it and are doing some wild awesome climbing. Sep 25, 2017
SethG  
I climbed this route on Saturday just to make sure nothing had changed before I made a comment in response to Jay. I can't speak about 25 years ago, but the "manky stacked tower" on P2 hasn't deteriorated in the past five or six years, and I doubt it has changed at all. You are climbing on a big pile of blocks, but the blocks are huge. It would take a lot to dislodge them.

I happen to agree that the route isn't all that great until you reach the final roof... but once you do, wow! I find it thrilling every time. It is one of the best. Wild and committing. And definitely 5.8. Jul 24, 2017
Jay Harrison
  5.9+
Jay Harrison  
  5.9+
I found this route unappealing. Hadn't done it in 25+ years.
The first pitch is pleasant, but not particularly inspiring jug-hauling, with one exception: the overhang, which is poorly protected (good gear in bad rock). In places, it is getting overgrown. The climbing on other routes nearby ( The Last Will be First ) is better.
I knew the approach to the crux is on a manky stacked tower; but that tower, and many of the holds through the crux, are in much worse shape now. It's a matter of time before that entire route collapses.
Anywhere else in the world, this route would be rated 5.9 or 10a; I think the only reason this route gets attention is its sandbag rating. One can argue there is no move harder than 5.8 on this line, and I would agree. However, if one actually went by this qualification, 5.11 would be highest grade on Earth. Strenuousness counts, and this route by any standard is much more strenuous than 5.8.
Bottom line: if this route were graded 5.9 or 10a, it would not get nearly the attention it receives at its current rating. At 5.9, no one would argue the grade (compare the climbing on this to, for example, Bonnie's Roof or Ant's Line ). At 10a, the only comments would be how over-graded it is. Jun 29, 2017
Isara
  5.10a
Isara  
  5.10a
I've been climbing almost 10 years and this was quite possibly the greatest climb I have ever done in my life!! It was just...not even real. Absolutely the most intense position I have ever been in...and I top-roped the second pitch! 300' feet above the trail (seems more like 700' because the actual floor is so far down) upside down, exposed, struggling through a V1-V2 crux. Don't forget to look down! Thank you so much Jazz and Mylene for randomly picking me up and putting me on this!! May 27, 2016
Jon Po
Mahwah, NJ
  5.8+
Jon Po   Mahwah, NJ
  5.8+
I sewed this climb up and didn't use anything bigger than a number 1 camalot... Do yourself a favor and leave your big cams on the ground! Apr 4, 2016
Kurtz
 
Kurtz  
 
A large cam is very reassuring as you move through the P2 crux. #4 works but a #5 fits with less fiddling.
The High Exposure rappel station (climbers right) gets you down in 3 single rope or 1 double rope rapps. Aug 23, 2015
Direct (finish) 5.10,(harder if you are short, but i'm 5'3"): there is a whole pitch as well:
See picture, showing variations. (Try The Trophy Hunter finish,5.11?)

Stay left after the crux, go up the slab /face to the bush under the white capstone
(the bush must be in the way nowadays but provides a gear placement).

Find the amazing hold just above the lip, right of the bush (v1).
Above this are two sharp holes that a short person may need to get to the horizontal.
Get the gear, move up smooth cleaned white rock . . .

(v1) the left exit is short and stout; use crimps /side pulls to gain the ledge above, but don’t touch the block that is sitting on the ledge. Jun 16, 2014
Kalil Oldham
Brooklyn, NY
 
Kalil Oldham   Brooklyn, NY
 
Wild, wild crux. Went up, in the notch (just right of the tree), couldn't get feet up; went up again, tried to use crimpers up on the slabby face, came back down; finally traversed right 10 feet or so and pushed out the huge mantle. Wild. Aug 26, 2009
Jason Antin
Golden, CO
  5.8+
Jason Antin   Golden, CO
  5.8+
I agree Eric, the sandbag is fun ~ at least AFTER you climb it. Is it really 5.10 now???

BETA>>> Gabe is right! First time around, I tried to pull the last roof early and mantle up, mainly because the small horizontals to my right did not look very good, needless to say I went for the big ride. On my second try, I stayed low and moved further right before moving up and I found it to be MUCH easier! Aug 10, 2009
eric larson
aurora, co
  5.8+
eric larson   aurora, co
  5.8+
"Modern Times is now 5.10 b/c"
damn.. that's a wee bit inflated.. compared to other solid 10s in the gunks this felt much easier.. pumpy sure, but no individual moves were that hard.. Moves on, say Feast of Fools, are harder, and I felt the route was just as pumpy.

Besides, half the fun of this route is that it goes at 5.8+.. sandbagged a bit.. sure.. but that's the best part! The + just means exciting! Dec 16, 2008
rgold
Poughkeepsie, NY
rgold   Poughkeepsie, NY
Buy the guide to the Gunks by Zach Orenczak and Rachael Lynn and your prayers will be answered...Modern Times is now 5.10 b/c. Sep 6, 2008
T Roper
DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
  5.9
T Roper   DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
  5.9
follower needs to be solid or know how to prusik! Apr 21, 2008
Mr. Malloc
  5.9
Mr. Malloc  
  5.9
The most sand-bagged route in the Gunks. So many people have fallen off this route. The most exposure you can have without a license.

Try the exciting variation that I call Post-Modern times, if you dare...and you feel up to a 5.10a or 5.10b pump-fest. From the tree that sticks straight out from the cliff in the last pitch....instead of going up and right...go straight right...your hands stay at the tree level as you traverse for 20 feet. As you go, do chin-ups to place big (Yellow and Blue Camalots) in the perfect crack. As you traverse, your foot holds move farther away and then come back again. Just before you get to the grassy section, pull up through the 1-foot roof and finish on the clean face above.

Tell me how you like it. Nov 17, 2006
GabeO
New Haven, CT
  5.8+
GabeO   New Haven, CT
  5.8+
I believe it really is 5.8, but not if you try to pull the last roof too early. You really want to do a low traverse, and then mantle once you get to where the hands and feet are better. Oct 23, 2006
Adam Catalano
Albany, New York
 
Adam Catalano   Albany, New York
 
The roofs seemed much easier the second time. A) Because I was following this time and B) because I used the killer undercling to reach over the first/largest roof. Gaining the final ledge is the crux for me, as the flakes in front of you are super loose (like don't grab them at all) and it requires a high right foot and SCARY manteling, with huge swing potential. May 9, 2006
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
Regardless of its traditional grade, let's call a spade a spade. I think this route is 5.9... even in the Gunks. Mar 7, 2006
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
 
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
 
Fun face climbing on the first pitch, and classic, pumpy Gunks overhangs on the second. This route would be solid 5.9 at many other climbing areas. Two kneebar rests can be found on the second-pitch overhangs to ease the pump factor.

Feb 27, 2006