Avg: 3.6 from 322 votes
|Type:||Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Dick WIlliams, Dave Craft, & Brian Carey - 1964|
|Page Views:||32,849 total · 187/month|
|Shared By:||Josh Janes on Feb 21, 2006 with 1 Suggestions|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Use the High Exposure access trail to reach Modern Times.
Start 30' left of High Exposure below a slabby left-facing corner.
P1 (5.7, 150'): Climb the corner and angle right to a dirt ledge. Climb up and a bit left and pass an overhang (crux) to the GT ledge.
P2 (5.8+, 100'): Go 20' left and climb to the top of a huge flake. Traverse right to a notch in the roof at the top of the wall (there's a small tree growing horizontally out of the roof). Pull the roof (crux), continue up right past more overhangs, and traverse right to a belay on a small ledge.
Bring up your partner, then scramble to the top.
Rappel down the bolted line over The Last Will Be First to climbers' left, or the High E bolted rappel line to climbers' right.