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Routes in h. The Arrow Wall - CCK
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[Redacted] T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Amber Waves of Pain T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Andrew T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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Android-Moby Dick link-up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Annie Oh! T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Arrow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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BroZone T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a R |
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Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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CCK Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Cold Turkeys T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Crack' N Up T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Deacon Blues T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Deep Lichen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Diana T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Easy Verschneidung (Easy V) T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Erect Direction T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Face to Face T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Feast of Fools T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hans' Puss T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hawkeye T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Jim's Gem T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Keep on Struttin' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Last Will Be First, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Limelight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lost and Found T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Man's Quest for Flight T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Moby Dick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Modern Times T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Moonlight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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No Glow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Nurse's Aid T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Ozone T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a R |
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Proctor Silex T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Proctoscope T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Quiver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Red Pillar T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Silhouette T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Smilin' the Hard Way T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Steep Hikin' T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Step Lively T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Strolling on Jupiter T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Supper's Ready T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Three Doves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Three Vultures T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Three Vultures Direct T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Traverse of the Clods T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Twilight Zone T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c C1 |
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Unholy Wick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Updraft T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Vanishing Point T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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| Type: | Trad, 210 ft (64 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | 1984: Ivan Rezucha and Annie O'Neill |
| Page Views: | 563 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Alicia Sokolowski on Jun 4, 2017 |
| Admins: | RJ B |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling
Details
Please use bolted rappel anchors to descend whenever possible.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Description
This route is not too often climbed because the first pitch is right in the Arrow rap line, but if you happen to find a break in the traffic, a quick run on pitch one (5.8, 100 ft to GT ledge) is worth the trip. The other pitches are basically contrived squeeze jobs to stay off the arrow line (or they are directly on the Arrow line, like p2). Pitch three (5.9, 80 ft.) is practically within arm's reach of arrow (5-10 feet left), and IMHO provides Dick William's commentary on the old Arrow right or left finish controversy.
Pitch 1 (100 feet, 5.8): The gray Dick states that it shares a start with Easy V. If leading, I would recommend starting here as the gear is much better. If on TR, it's more difficult and fun to start left of the Easy V start, but right of the start of Arrow. A few feet right of the little tree growing out of the ledges that serve as the standard Arrow start will put you in the right place. This pitch is nice face climbing with some horizontal ridges and cracks. Grey Dick ends the pitch at the top of Easy V, but I recommend keeping the line straight to maintain the difficulty. Once again, I believe DW's suggestion will give you better gear options. Belay from the GT ledge either way.
Pitch 2 (30 feet, 5.7): Walk left on the GT ledge until you arrive at the start of Arrow's second pitch. Make your way, angling right, through the overhangs. The grey Dick has you stopping to belay once the overhangs are over. If you have a new second, this might not be a bad idea. Otherwise, it's much easier to link p2 and p3.
Pitch 3 (70 feet, 5.9): The start is more or less the same as the Arrow line after the overhangs. You can force yourself slightly left, but some of the moves overlap, in my opinion. For the crux moves, stay left. I think this is where the difference in Dick William's suggested ratings come from. A lot of climbers feel the left side finish is harder than the right side finish on Arrow. Rating this 5.9 over Arrow's 5.8 supports that.
Descent: Arrow rappel
Pitch 1 (100 feet, 5.8): The gray Dick states that it shares a start with Easy V. If leading, I would recommend starting here as the gear is much better. If on TR, it's more difficult and fun to start left of the Easy V start, but right of the start of Arrow. A few feet right of the little tree growing out of the ledges that serve as the standard Arrow start will put you in the right place. This pitch is nice face climbing with some horizontal ridges and cracks. Grey Dick ends the pitch at the top of Easy V, but I recommend keeping the line straight to maintain the difficulty. Once again, I believe DW's suggestion will give you better gear options. Belay from the GT ledge either way.
Pitch 2 (30 feet, 5.7): Walk left on the GT ledge until you arrive at the start of Arrow's second pitch. Make your way, angling right, through the overhangs. The grey Dick has you stopping to belay once the overhangs are over. If you have a new second, this might not be a bad idea. Otherwise, it's much easier to link p2 and p3.
Pitch 3 (70 feet, 5.9): The start is more or less the same as the Arrow line after the overhangs. You can force yourself slightly left, but some of the moves overlap, in my opinion. For the crux moves, stay left. I think this is where the difference in Dick William's suggested ratings come from. A lot of climbers feel the left side finish is harder than the right side finish on Arrow. Rating this 5.9 over Arrow's 5.8 supports that.
Descent: Arrow rappel
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