Avg: 2 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, 210 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||1984: Ivan Rezucha and Annie O'Neill|
|Page Views:||142 total · 19/month|
|Shared By:||Alicia Sokolowski on Jun 4, 2017|
DescriptionThis route is not too often climbed because the first pitch is right in the Arrow rap line, but if you happen to find a break in the traffic, a quick run on pitch one (5.8, 100 ft to GT ledge) is worth the trip. The other pitches are basically contrived squeeze jobs to stay off the arrow line (or they are directly on the Arrow line, like p2). Pitch three (5.9, 80 ft.) is practically within arm's reach of arrow (5-10 feet left), and IMHO provides Dick William's commentary on the old Arrow right or left finish controversy.
Pitch 1 (100 feet, 5.8): The gray Dick states that it shares a start with Easy V. If leading, I would recommend starting here as the gear is much better. If on TR, it's more difficult and fun to start left of the Easy V start, but right of the start of Arrow. A few feet right of the little tree growing out of the ledges that serve as the standard Arrow start will put you in the right place. This pitch is nice face climbing with some horizontal ridges and cracks. Grey Dick ends the pitch at the top of Easy V, but I recommend keeping the line straight to maintain the difficulty. Once again, I believe DW's suggestion will give you better gear options. Belay from the GT ledge either way.
Pitch 2 (30 feet, 5.7): Walk left on the GT ledge until you arrive at the start of Arrow's second pitch. Make your way, angling right, through the overhangs. The grey Dick has you stopping to belay once the overhangs are over. If you have a new second, this might not be a bad idea. Otherwise, it's much easier to link p2 and p3.
Pitch 3 (70 feet, 5.9): The start is more or less the same as the Arrow line after the overhangs. You can force yourself slightly left, but some of the moves overlap, in my opinion. For the crux moves, stay left. I think this is where the difference in Dick William's suggested ratings come from. A lot of climbers feel the left side finish is harder than the right side finish on Arrow. Rating this 5.9 over Arrow's 5.8 supports that.
Descent: Arrow rappel