Avg: 1.9 from 10 votes
|Type:||Trad, 210 ft (64 m), 3 pitches|
|FA:||1984: Ivan Rezucha and Annie O'Neill|
|Page Views:||762 total · 15/month|
|Shared By:||Alicia Sokolowski on Jun 4, 2017|
|Admins:||RJ B, Morgan Patterson|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Pitch 1 (100 feet, 5.8): The gray Dick states that it shares a start with Easy V. If leading, I would recommend starting here as the gear is much better. If on TR, it's more difficult and fun to start left of the Easy V start, but right of the start of Arrow. A few feet right of the little tree growing out of the ledges that serve as the standard Arrow start will put you in the right place. This pitch is nice face climbing with some horizontal ridges and cracks. Grey Dick ends the pitch at the top of Easy V, but I recommend keeping the line straight to maintain the difficulty. Once again, I believe DW's suggestion will give you better gear options. Belay from the GT ledge either way.
Pitch 2 (30 feet, 5.7): Walk left on the GT ledge until you arrive at the start of Arrow's second pitch. Make your way, angling right, through the overhangs. The grey Dick has you stopping to belay once the overhangs are over. If you have a new second, this might not be a bad idea. Otherwise, it's much easier to link p2 and p3.
Pitch 3 (70 feet, 5.9): The start is more or less the same as the Arrow line after the overhangs. You can force yourself slightly left, but some of the moves overlap, in my opinion. For the crux moves, stay left. I think this is where the difference in Dick William's suggested ratings come from. A lot of climbers feel the left side finish is harder than the right side finish on Arrow. Rating this 5.9 over Arrow's 5.8 supports that.
Descent: Arrow rappel