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Routes in h. The Arrow Wall - CCK

Amber Waves of Pain T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Andrew T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Android-Moby Dick link-up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Annie Oh! T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arrow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
CCK Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Cold Turkeys T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Crack' N Up T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Deep Lichen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Diana T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Verschneidung (Easy V) T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Erect Direction T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Face to Face T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Feast of Fools T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hans' Puss T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hawkeye T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jim's Gem T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Keep on Struttin' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Last Will Be First, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Limelight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lost and Found T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Man's Quest for Flight T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Moby Dick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Modern Times T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moonlight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
No Glow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nurse's Aid T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Proctor Silex T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Proctoscope T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Quiver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Red Pillar T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Silhouette T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Smilin' the Hard Way T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Steep Hikin' T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Step Lively T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Strolling on Jupiter T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Supper's Ready T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Three Doves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Vultures T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Three Vultures Direct T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Traverse of the Clods T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Twilight Zone T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c C1
Unholy Wick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Updraft T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wop Stop T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 210 ft, 3 pitches
FA: 1984: Ivan Rezucha and Annie O'Neill
Page Views: 159 total · 13/month
Shared By: Alicia Sokolowski on Jun 4, 2017
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Access Issue: 2018 Peregrine closure: Wisecrack to Scary Area Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Route Closure Details

Description [Edit]

This route is not too often climbed because the first pitch is right in the Arrow rap line, but if you happen to find a break in the traffic, a quick run on pitch one (5.8, 100 ft to GT ledge) is worth the trip. The other pitches are basically contrived squeeze jobs to stay off the arrow line (or they are directly on the Arrow line, like p2). Pitch three (5.9, 80 ft.) is practically within arm's reach of arrow (5-10 feet left), and IMHO provides Dick William's commentary on the old Arrow right or left finish controversy.

Pitch 1 (100 feet, 5.8): The gray Dick states that it shares a start with Easy V. If leading, I would recommend starting here as the gear is much better. If on TR, it's more difficult and fun to start left of the Easy V start, but right of the start of Arrow. A few feet right of the little tree growing out of the ledges that serve as the standard Arrow start will put you in the right place. This pitch is nice face climbing with some horizontal ridges and cracks. Grey Dick ends the pitch at the top of Easy V, but I recommend keeping the line straight to maintain the difficulty. Once again, I believe DW's suggestion will give you better gear options. Belay from the GT ledge either way.

Pitch 2 (30 feet, 5.7): Walk left on the GT ledge until you arrive at the start of Arrow's second pitch. Make your way, angling right, through the overhangs. The grey Dick has you stopping to belay once the overhangs are over. If you have a new second, this might not be a bad idea. Otherwise, it's much easier to link p2 and p3.

Pitch 3 (70 feet, 5.9): The start is more or less the same as the Arrow line after the overhangs. You can force yourself slightly left, but some of the moves overlap, in my opinion. For the crux moves, stay left. I think this is where the difference in Dick William's suggested ratings come from. A lot of climbers feel the left side finish is harder than the right side finish on Arrow. Rating this 5.9 over Arrow's 5.8 supports that.

Descent: Arrow rappel

Location [Edit]

Grey Dick says use the same start as Easy V. I find it more fun to stay a bit left. It keeps the start closer to the grade of 5.8 (grade of p1) that way.

Protection [Edit]

Grey Dick calls it PG. I think it's more PG-13 on P1, particularly if you stay center and don't move right to join Easy V. PG or better on pitches 2 and 3, though.

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