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Routes in h. The Arrow Wall - CCK

Amber Waves of Pain T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Andrew T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Android-Moby Dick link-up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Annie Oh! T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arrow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
CCK Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Cold Turkeys T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Crack' N Up T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Deep Lichen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Diana T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Verschneidung (Easy V) T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Erect Direction T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Face to Face T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Feast of Fools T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hans' Puss T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hawkeye T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jim's Gem T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Keep on Struttin' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Last Will Be First, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Limelight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lost and Found T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Man's Quest for Flight T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Moby Dick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Modern Times T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moonlight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
No Glow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nurse's Aid T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Proctor Silex T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Proctoscope T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Quiver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Red Pillar T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Silhouette T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Smilin' the Hard Way T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Steep Hikin' T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Step Lively T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Strolling on Jupiter T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Supper's Ready T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Three Doves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Vultures T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Traverse of the Clods T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Twilight Zone T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c C1
Unholy Wick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Updraft T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wop Stop T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 270 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jim McCarthy, Tim Mutch, 1954. FFA: Art Gran, Lito Tejada-Flores, 1965
Page Views: 4,724 total, 33/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Apr 1, 2006 with updates
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

This climbs the steep wall right of Andrew and left of Erect Direction.

P1 (description by Anthony Baraff): The cliff-side trail is near a local low near the start of the climb. Look up for a distinctive right-facing flake in the overhang 40 feet up, and start 10 feet to the right at a shallow left-facing ramp below blocks 20 feet up. Climb the ramp up to the blocks, then follow the path of least resistance up to the overhang at the flake; climb up through the overhang before continuing up and left to the pine tree belay/rap-station at the GT ledge.

There are many possible alternate routes up in the 20 foot-wide band of cliff above the start and below the belay station, but I think this description more or less matches the guide and keeps the difficulty at or below 5.5 G/PG.

Alternatives in the area for P1 include Three Vultures, Moonlight, Erect Direction, and even Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK).

Pitch 2: Look for an arching roof about 30' above the GT Ledge. Climb up to the right side of this arch and then move right to a clean, white wall and cracks leading up through an exciting roof (crux). Definitely harder for short people. 5.9, 120'.

Descent: in 2015, a double-bolt rappel line was installed to enable rappelling this route in 3 single-60m rappels. The first rappel from the top, which starts from a cable around two trees, is a rope-stretcher (watch your ends!). At the GT, find a bolt station, and then another pair of bolts mid-cliff height at a stance.

Location

Walk up from the carriage road at the Andrew boulder, on the same access trail as for Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK). This is about a 16-min. walk from the Uberfall, and a 12-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road. Go about 100' left from where the trail hits the cliff to get to the start of the route.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack

Photos

Bob Johnson
Philadelphia, PA
 
Bob Johnson   Philadelphia, PA
 
Pretty sweet route! Definitely start on Face to Face!

I put a piece in the corner at the start of the traverse at the beginning of the route. I later backcleaned that piece after getting pro on the face. That kinda sucks for the second, but the climbing getting to that first piece is easy and that piece doesn't protect them on the traverse anyway (they clean it before traversing). Doubles would help. Otherwise, climb it with someone who is solid on 5.6ish.

Perhaps I'm overly optimistic, but I did use the big detached flake to make the final move to gain the stance above the crux. It's obviously detached, and you definitely don't want to yard outward on it or place protection behind it. I grabbed the very base of it and pulled gingerly downward to mantle up. Sep 19, 2016
Systematic  
 
I don't really understand the reason to put a "thru-way" type rappel station right over (the crux of) this route. I have personally seen several people get smacked in the face with unannounced ropes.

The climbing itself is great. Get on it, but take the above recommendations about rope drag seriously. I think double ropes are the best option. Running it out up until getting to the placements on the face might be ok for a small minority... Maybe a pulley biner on the piece in the corner? Sep 19, 2016
Wes John-Alder
Brooklyn, New York
Wes John-Alder   Brooklyn, New York
I just lead this route for the first time yesterday, and I took into account the notes of caution in this thread.

1) The big Texas-shaped block is gone, so that's not scary.

2) The pitons seemed stable. I wouldn't want to take a long whipper on either of them, though. However there is solid pro under the crux that would keep you off the deck in case the worst should happen. Also, the pins on the route are the old coated Stannards, so I think they've held up to much corrosion.

3) Above the crux, I agree that the giant flake out right is tempting, but I didn't find it much more difficult to stay left and avoid it altogether. Just search around for the good crimpers.

Also, when I got to the crux and the top, I found a giant crowd of new climbers rappelling down. One of them threw their rope in my face without calling "rope"! Not sure there is much to be done about heavy traffic, but it is certainly a hazard of the route. May 16, 2016
Larry S
Easton, Pennsylvania
Larry S   Easton, Pennsylvania
P2 can be a popular rappel route, so be aware that the rap goes straight thru the crux of the climb, and climbers below the crux are not visible from people rappelling.

P2 itself is worth doing, the crux is well protected and short, with a little run out above it (don't place gear in the flake).

The opening moves of P2 will probably keep some parties off this climb, the first place you want to place gear is after the insecure traverse onto the face, at which point you're 15+ feet over the GT ledge. You could get a piece in the corner before the traverse, but you'd just set yourself up for a bad pendulum fall and severe rope drag for the rest of the climb. May 28, 2015
SethG  
So it was the Texas block. Thanks for the info. Jun 30, 2014
Andy Casler
Plymouth, NH
  5.9
Andy Casler   Plymouth, NH
  5.9
I heard the May 4, 2014 rock fall while I was walking on the carriage road. I had followed P1 the day before. The rock fell onto the spot where I had belayed my leader from.

I climbed P2 on May 21, 2014 and saw that it's the not huge, precarious flake that you need to mantle off of to get through the crux that fell. Instead there's a discoloration just at the last moves of the climb, marking the place where the rock the fell used to sit. The climb is still a 5.9.

There's no gear for about 10-15 feet after the crux, and it's tempting to plug gear behind the big flake, but very unsafe. A lead fall may generate enough force to dislodge the ~1,000 pound thing, potentially severing your rope and killing anyone who's at the No Glow's P1 belay area.

I would recommend climbing this only on a day when the cliff isn't busy. Jun 29, 2014
JSH

JSH    
SethG  
I think I am done with No Glow. The second pitch scares me, for two reasons:

1. I have always been sort of creeped out by the big sickle/flake that is just sitting on a very narrow shelf right above the crux move. You yard on this flake to get established above the roof, and there are no footholds so you have to smear and pull out, not down, to some extent.

2. There is a loose block just leaning against the wall two moves from the top, a little to the right. It is Texas-shaped and about three and a half feet wide. I absent-mindedly touched it, barely, last Sunday and the block moved. It is NOT attached. It could go at any time.

You can avoid both of these features. If you don't use the sickle/flake at the crux, I'm guessing the crux will be much much harder. I don't think it will be 5.9- any more. (The two pins will still protect you though.) At the top of the cliff, you can easily avoid the loose block by staying to the left. Please don't go near this block, it is very dangerous. I don't even want to rap there any more. Sep 19, 2013
kenr  
I agree with SethG about P1 being a worthwhile 5.4+ Gunks climb in its own right -- but not for new leaders. Even a leader experienced leading Gunks 5.9s with a well-tuned Gunks rack should expect lots of places for thought about protection and moves, not just a little scamper up the start of P2.

While I agree that there was a section of P1 not far off the ground where it was not well protected, I did not think the hardest moves on P1 were in that section. (also my view is that the "flake" about 40 ft up in the desctription above on this page, sort of points toward the right, just below an overhang).

A hint for P2 is to start by going up the Left-facing corner to the Left of the roof directly over the P1 top belay/rap station. Then make a not very well-protected (or should we say "unprotected"?) traverse Right to get above that roof.

Crux of P2 seemed to me well protected, which likely helps the popularity of this climb. While making the long reach is critical for the leader, I doubt it's strictly necessary for the follower -- provided the leader hangs a non-short sling (or slings) off the obvious protection just above. May 17, 2012
SethG  
I think pitch one of No Glow is well worth doing. It is pretty standard 5.4-5.5 Gunks face climbing, with many horizontals and no big standout moments. But it is very pleasant, certainly on a par with the first pitch of CCK or Arrow or any number of other climbs. I would not suggest P1 to an aspiring 5.4 leader, though, because the first pro is at least 15 feet off the ground. The climbing to this point is quite easy but a new leader might be unnerved.

P2 is great. If you can't make the reach, move your feet up. I reached left, underclinged right. After you pull the overhang there's a nice move up with smearing feet, then it's pretty smooth sailing. Oct 4, 2010
I have always used the first pitch of Face to Face to access the upper pitch of No Glow as it keeps a more consistent grade. It also quite a good pitch and very much worth doing. There is no gear for about 20 feet but it is very easy, low angle and has holds. A very good link up. Aug 14, 2010
The hardest move on the first pitch - 15 feet or so off the ground - is poorly protected, but after that the gear is good and there are great holds, fun moves, and nice exposure. May 30, 2008
Absolutely worth doing. One of those upper pitches--similar to Three Doves--often overlooked because lower part is average. What I most recall is the pure white face right after the roof. Vertical, thin, exposed. Feb 19, 2008