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Routes in h. The Arrow Wall - CCK
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Amber Waves of Pain T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Andrew T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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Android-Moby Dick link-up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Annie Oh! T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Arrow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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CCK Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Cold Turkeys T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Crack' N Up T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Deacon Blues T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Deep Lichen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Diana T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Easy Verschneidung (Easy V) T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Erect Direction T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Face to Face T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Feast of Fools T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hans' Puss T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hawkeye T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Jim's Gem T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Keep on Struttin' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Last Will Be First, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Limelight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lost and Found T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Man's Quest for Flight T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Moby Dick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Modern Times T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Moonlight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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No Glow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Nurse's Aid T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Proctor Silex T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Proctoscope T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Quiver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Red Pillar T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Silhouette T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Smilin' the Hard Way T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Steep Hikin' T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Step Lively T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Strolling on Jupiter T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Supper's Ready T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Three Doves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Three Vultures T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Three Vultures Direct T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Traverse of the Clods T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Twilight Zone T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c C1 |
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Unholy Wick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Updraft T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Vanishing Point T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Wop Stop T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 270 ft, 2 pitches |
| FA: | Jim McCarthy, Tim Mutch, 1954. FFA: Art Gran, Lito Tejada-Flores, 1965 |
| Page Views: | 5,770 total · 34/month |
| Shared By: | John Peterson on Apr 1, 2006 |
| Admins: | JSH |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling
Details
Please use the bolted rappel anchors to descend whenever possible.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Description
This climbs the steep wall right of Andrew and left of Erect Direction.
P1 (description by Anthony Baraff): The cliff-side trail is near a local low near the start of the climb. Look up for a distinctive right-facing flake in the overhang 40 feet up, and start 10 feet to the right at a shallow left-facing ramp below blocks 20 feet up. Climb the ramp up to the blocks, then follow the path of least resistance up to the overhang at the flake; climb up through the overhang before continuing up and left to the bolted belay/rap-station at the GT ledge.
There are many possible alternate routes up in the 20 foot-wide band of cliff above the start and below the belay station, but I think this description more or less matches the guide and keeps the difficulty at or below 5.5 G/PG.
Alternatives in the area for P1 include Three Vultures, Moonlight, Erect Direction, and even Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK).
Pitch 2: Look for an arching roof about 30' above the GT Ledge. Climb up to the right side of this arch and then move right to a clean, white wall and cracks leading up through an exciting roof (crux). Definitely harder for short people. 5.9, 120'.
Descent: Rappel this route in 3 single-60m rappels. The first rappel from the top, which starts from a cable around two trees, is a rope-stretcher (watch your ends!). At the GT, find a bolt station, and then another pair of bolts mid-cliff height at a stance.
P1 (description by Anthony Baraff): The cliff-side trail is near a local low near the start of the climb. Look up for a distinctive right-facing flake in the overhang 40 feet up, and start 10 feet to the right at a shallow left-facing ramp below blocks 20 feet up. Climb the ramp up to the blocks, then follow the path of least resistance up to the overhang at the flake; climb up through the overhang before continuing up and left to the bolted belay/rap-station at the GT ledge.
There are many possible alternate routes up in the 20 foot-wide band of cliff above the start and below the belay station, but I think this description more or less matches the guide and keeps the difficulty at or below 5.5 G/PG.
Alternatives in the area for P1 include Three Vultures, Moonlight, Erect Direction, and even Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK).
Pitch 2: Look for an arching roof about 30' above the GT Ledge. Climb up to the right side of this arch and then move right to a clean, white wall and cracks leading up through an exciting roof (crux). Definitely harder for short people. 5.9, 120'.
Descent: Rappel this route in 3 single-60m rappels. The first rappel from the top, which starts from a cable around two trees, is a rope-stretcher (watch your ends!). At the GT, find a bolt station, and then another pair of bolts mid-cliff height at a stance.
Location
Walk up from the carriage road at the Andrew boulder, on the same access trail as for Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK). This is about a 16-min. walk from the Uberfall, and a 12-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road. Go about 100' left from where the trail hits the cliff to get to the start of the route.
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