Type: Trad, 270 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jim McCarthy, Tim Mutch, 1954. FFA: Art Gran, Lito Tejada-Flores, 1965
Page Views: 5,770 total · 34/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Apr 1, 2006 with improvements by Kurtz
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

This climbs the steep wall right of Andrew and left of Erect Direction.

P1 (description by Anthony Baraff): The cliff-side trail is near a local low near the start of the climb. Look up for a distinctive right-facing flake in the overhang 40 feet up, and start 10 feet to the right at a shallow left-facing ramp below blocks 20 feet up. Climb the ramp up to the blocks, then follow the path of least resistance up to the overhang at the flake; climb up through the overhang before continuing up and left to the bolted belay/rap-station at the GT ledge.

There are many possible alternate routes up in the 20 foot-wide band of cliff above the start and below the belay station, but I think this description more or less matches the guide and keeps the difficulty at or below 5.5 G/PG.

Alternatives in the area for P1 include Three Vultures, Moonlight, Erect Direction, and even Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK).

Pitch 2: Look for an arching roof about 30' above the GT Ledge. Climb up to the right side of this arch and then move right to a clean, white wall and cracks leading up through an exciting roof (crux). Definitely harder for short people. 5.9, 120'.

Descent: Rappel this route in 3 single-60m rappels. The first rappel from the top, which starts from a cable around two trees, is a rope-stretcher (watch your ends!). At the GT, find a bolt station, and then another pair of bolts mid-cliff height at a stance.

Location

Walk up from the carriage road at the Andrew boulder, on the same access trail as for Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK). This is about a 16-min. walk from the Uberfall, and a 12-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road. Go about 100' left from where the trail hits the cliff to get to the start of the route.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack

Photos