Avg: 2.9 from 92 votes
|Type:||Trad, 270 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Jim McCarthy, Tim Mutch, 1954. FFA: Art Gran, Lito Tejada-Flores, 1965|
|Page Views:||4,796 total · 33/month|
|Shared By:||John Peterson on Apr 1, 2006|
DescriptionThis climbs the steep wall right of Andrew and left of Erect Direction.
P1 (description by Anthony Baraff): The cliff-side trail is near a local low near the start of the climb. Look up for a distinctive right-facing flake in the overhang 40 feet up, and start 10 feet to the right at a shallow left-facing ramp below blocks 20 feet up. Climb the ramp up to the blocks, then follow the path of least resistance up to the overhang at the flake; climb up through the overhang before continuing up and left to the pine tree belay/rap-station at the GT ledge.
There are many possible alternate routes up in the 20 foot-wide band of cliff above the start and below the belay station, but I think this description more or less matches the guide and keeps the difficulty at or below 5.5 G/PG.
Alternatives in the area for P1 include Three Vultures, Moonlight, Erect Direction, and even Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK).
Pitch 2: Look for an arching roof about 30' above the GT Ledge. Climb up to the right side of this arch and then move right to a clean, white wall and cracks leading up through an exciting roof (crux). Definitely harder for short people. 5.9, 120'.
Descent: in 2015, a double-bolt rappel line was installed to enable rappelling this route in 3 single-60m rappels. The first rappel from the top, which starts from a cable around two trees, is a rope-stretcher (watch your ends!). At the GT, find a bolt station, and then another pair of bolts mid-cliff height at a stance.