Type: Trad, 240 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Unknown, 1970s
Page Views: 11,291 total · 73/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Mar 2, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


171 Opinions

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Description

CCK Direct is such a classic line that Williams lists it as a separate climb in his Trapps guidebook, so we'll list it separately here too.

P1: Climb the short corner and angle up right to a left-facing corner. Climb the corner to a roof, then move left and climb a crack to the GT Ledge. Belay at a big oak tree with rap slings. 5.6, 120'.

Alternatively, climb the first pitch of Erect Direction, a crack system on the left wall of Updraft, and traverse right to the oak tree. 5.8, 120'.

P2: Climb up directly behind the oak tree to a ledge and roof. Get pro in a horizontal, traverse right (either high or low), and make a tough mantle move past the overhang to a stance (5.8 PG-R). Climb up left-facing flakes, and continue straight up through tiered overhangs (small cams, some reachy moves) to the CCK crack. Follow the crack to the small roof at the top. When you see the pin leading right, go straight up over a small bulge to an alcove beneath the roof. From here, work left about 10' to the edge of the roof and go up a short handcrack (crux) to the top for a spectacular finish. 5.9 PG-R, 120'.

Descent: Walk right about 100' to a notch. Walk down the notch to a bolted rappel route by The Last Will Be First. 3 rappels with one rope get you back down. Alternatively, head south: three rappels from bolted anchors over No Glow will get you to the ground with a single rope.

Protection

Standard Rack.

Location

The CCK approach trail is about a 15-min. walk from the Uberfall, and an 11-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road. Look for a huge boulder (with bouldering routes and chalk) on the left. The CCK trail starts just past the boulder.

At the cliff, go right and up to get to the start of the route. Locate a huge right-facing corner; this is the route Updraft. CCK starts about 15' right of Updraft, at a small left-facing corner.
When I climb the second pitch, I pull the initial overhang off the GT ledge as normal and then go straight through a small overhang (small cams). Sort of reachy. This takes you to the hand crack. At the top of the crack when you see the pin leading right go straight up over a small bulge to an alcove beneath the roof. From here, work left about 10' to the edge of the roof and go up a short handcrack to the top. I don't think the top part is too bad - about 5.8 - but very spectacular.

NB: John is very tall! -Ed. Mar 1, 2006
No fixed gear the whole way as of 11/2006. A brilliant pitch with an exciting, slightly out-there finish. Nov 27, 2006
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.10- PG13
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
  5.10- PG13
Starting with P1 of Erect Direction is a great option for keeping the interest level high. Good warmup for strenuous things to come. Sep 29, 2007
eric larson
aurora, co
  5.9 PG13
eric larson   aurora, co
  5.9 PG13
simply brilliant climb... if you think the original CCK route is good.. do the direct! three overhangs in 1 pitch.. plus the classic CCK flake... only downside is no airy traverse! Apr 22, 2008
don't "step down" on the P2 traverse. You can stay high to make it more fun and interesting. Sep 7, 2009
manuel rangel
Arizona
manuel rangel   Arizona
I climbed it after Labor day 2010 and there were three fixed pieces! None mine. None we could finagle, bring a steel 1/4" rod! Sep 10, 2010
Nick W
Orford, NH
Nick W   Orford, NH
One of the best 5.9's in the gunks. The first move/traverse off the GT ledge is I think the physical and psychological crux of the climb. If you blow it and you have a good belayer and a long sling I think you will stay off the ledge, but it would be a nasty pendulum. The rest of the climb has excellent gear, and is easier than it looks. If you use long slings this is much more enjoyable and natural feeling than doing the contrived 5.7 pitches. Nov 8, 2011
Simon Thompson
New Paltz, NY
  5.9 PG13
Simon Thompson   New Paltz, NY
  5.9 PG13
Great climb. Be careful on the 5.8 PG/R above the GT ledge on P2. The moves there are awkward and if you blew it you'd take a nasty pendulum. There is a good #000 placement before the crux near the top. Oct 8, 2012
carl al
 
carl al  
 
You can get one of the gunks few killer handjams for the last moves on the last pitch. Burly, airy, and awesome!

For the beginning of the pitch, definitely a no- fall zone but mostly a head crux. My follower hated the bit of unprotected traverse for the first room of the gt ledge. Sep 3, 2014
Systematic
  5.9 PG13
Systematic  
  5.9 PG13
One of the best pitches I've climbed at the Gunks of any grade. The beginning of the pitch working into and over the 1st roof is not trivial and should be taken seriously. After that it is pure joy.

*****Gear beta*****

Doubles in 1", 000 C3 useful Oct 24, 2016
Danny
brooklyn, ny
 
Danny   brooklyn, ny
 
This is an amazing must-do route. Start on Erect Direction P1. Save a micro cam for your last piece pro before you pull the final roof after the alcove. I placed a Metolius UL Mastercam 00 (about the same size as a BD x4 0.1) and was kinda surprised about it... I rarely carry it and rarely place it, but it was perfect in this situation. This is a four star route. Sep 28, 2018