Type: Trad, 240 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Unknown, 1970s
Page Views: 13,061 total · 74/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Mar 2, 2006
Admins: RJ B

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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

CCK Direct is such a classic line that Williams lists it as a separate climb in his Trapps guidebook, so we'll list it separately here too.

P1: Climb the short corner and angle up right to a left-facing corner. Climb the corner to a roof, then move left and climb a crack to the GT Ledge. Belay at a big oak tree with rap slings. 5.6, 120'.

Alternatively, climb the first pitch of Erect Direction, a crack system on the left wall of Updraft, and traverse right to the oak tree. 5.8, 120'.

P2: Climb up directly behind the oak tree to a ledge and roof. Get pro in a horizontal, traverse right (either high or low), and make a tough mantle move past the overhang to a stance (5.8 PG-R). Climb up left-facing flakes, and continue straight up through tiered overhangs (small cams, some reachy moves) to the CCK crack. Follow the crack to the small roof at the top. When you see the pin leading right, go straight up over a small bulge to an alcove beneath the roof. From here, work left about 10' to the edge of the roof and go up a short handcrack (crux) to the top for a spectacular finish. 5.9 PG-R, 120'.

Descent: Walk right about 100' to a notch. Walk down the notch to a bolted rappel route by The Last Will Be First. 3 rappels with one rope get you back down. Alternatively, head south: three rappels from bolted anchors over No Glow will get you to the ground with a single rope.

Protection

Standard Rack.

Location

The CCK approach trail is about a 15-min. walk from the Uberfall, and an 11-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road. Look for a huge boulder (with bouldering routes and chalk) on the left. The CCK trail starts just past the boulder.

At the cliff, go right and up to get to the start of the route. Locate a huge right-facing corner; this is the route Updraft. CCK starts about 15' right of Updraft, at a small left-facing corner.

Photos