Avg: 2.5 from 78 votes
|Type:||Trad, 230 ft (70 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||Fritz Wiessner, Hans Kraus, 1944|
|Page Views:||5,535 total · 30/month|
|Shared By:||"H" Lampasso on Apr 7, 2006|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
The Updraft access trail is about a 15-min. walk from the Uberfall, and an 11-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road. Look for a huge boulder (with bouldering routes and chalk) on the left. The access trail starts just past the boulder.
At the cliff, go right and up to get to the start of the route. Locate a huge right-facing corner; this is the route Updraft.
P1: Climb the corner to the GT ledge. 5.3, 110'.
P1 variation: Do the first pitch of CCK.
P2: Fun for the grade. Continue up the corner to the chimney. Climb INTO the chimney for about 30' and then squeeze your way out of the exit at the top. Tight squeeze depending on how big you are. Wear pants or tape your knees. If you have a pack on drop it between your legs. 5.5, 120'.
I only did this climb for the 2nd pitch. Definitely fun and interesting.