Type: Trad, 230 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Fritz Wiessner, Hans Kraus, 1944
Page Views: 4,451 total · 29/month
Shared By: "H" Lampasso on Apr 7, 2006
Admins: JSH

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Updraft climbs the huge corner and chimney just left of CCK and 60' right and uphill from Moonlight.

The Updraft access trail is about a 15-min. walk from the Uberfall, and an 11-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road. Look for a huge boulder (with bouldering routes and chalk) on the left. The access trail starts just past the boulder.

At the cliff, go right and up to get to the start of the route. Locate a huge right-facing corner; this is the route Updraft.

P1: Climb the corner to the GT ledge. 5.3, 110'.

P1 variation: Do the first pitch of CCK.

P2: Fun for the grade. Continue up the corner to the chimney. Climb INTO the chimney for about 30' and then squeeze your way out of the exit at the top. Tight squeeze depending on how big you are. Wear pants or tape your knees. If you have a pack on drop it between your legs. 5.5, 120'.

I only did this climb for the 2nd pitch. Definitely fun and interesting.


Haven't done it in about 5 years, but I only ever climbed at the Gunks using Lowe TriCams (doubling up on pink, red and brown) and a few Metolius Quad Cams.
Climbed this in a party of three and we all really enjoyed the 2nd pitch. Were suprised it was only a one-star climb in the books, we liked it more than many three-star climbs. Enjoy! The crux move is well protected, but tough. Sep 21, 2007
Joe M
Beckley, wv
Joe M   Beckley, wv
Wasnt too impressed with this route. The first pitch was boring and the chimney although fun, was kind of short. Jun 2, 2008
The chimney was fun. Plus if you are the 2nd and you fart, the leader up top learns the true meaning of Updraft. Oct 20, 2008
The first pitch is straight forward, but when you stem against the Erect Direction face, rocks are easily dislodged. Warn those below! The final 30 feet of the second pitch is vertical/slightly overhanging in parts,a 5.5 rating seems too low to me and might be a bad surprise to many 5.5 climbers. The chimney is narrow -- bigger climbers barely fit, making the last 15 feet tough for them. You can rappel from the top beside the chimney and just make it to the GT ledge with a single 70m rope. Apr 19, 2012
First pitch has nice 5.1-5.2-5.3 moves, and felt well-protected, and with a nice rap tree near its top. (I haven't tried the second pitch). Jun 9, 2012
A.wilk Wilk
Olympia, WA
A.wilk Wilk   Olympia, WA
I found this climb to be fun bottom to top. The first pitch is super easy jug hauling with a couple interesting moves in the middle. The second pitch starts out easy and then gets pretty stiff for the 20' before the chimney. Once up in the chimney it was extremely fun but it gets pretty tight up towards the top. Lots of grunting and cursing can be expected if you are a bigger climber Jun 25, 2013
Stone Ridge, NY
lucander   Stone Ridge, NY
Awesome! Old school 5.7 climbing. Aug 5, 2013
Genevieve Lampinen
Genevieve Lampinen   philadelphia
I really liked this climb. The chimney has a lot of cool moves. Beware if you are bringing a 5-5 follower as some of the moves might feel more technical than that especially as the follower is maneuvering the chimney trying to remove gear. Sep 12, 2016