Amber Waves of Pain
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3.5 from 96 votes
Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
FA: | Steve Lewanik, Mark Goldman 1987 |
Page Views: | 8,340 total · 46/month |
Shared By: | Tommy Ormond on Nov 21, 2009 · Updates |
Admins: | Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio |
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Description
From the GT ledge, start from the left side of a huge blocky pinnacle.
Description with help from Pawel: Aim towards a deeply notched overhang that is over a steep, reddish face. Start by working up through some steep face moves. Above the face, move past the first overhang (crux) to a good stance. After this, pass the next overhang by moving right, up in to the notch, over, and back left into the open book to the top.
In summary: it's a steep pumpy then thin face, and two overhangs with really good rests in between.
Descent: Three rappels from bolted anchors over No Glow will get you to the ground with a single rope.
Description with help from Pawel: Aim towards a deeply notched overhang that is over a steep, reddish face. Start by working up through some steep face moves. Above the face, move past the first overhang (crux) to a good stance. After this, pass the next overhang by moving right, up in to the notch, over, and back left into the open book to the top.
In summary: it's a steep pumpy then thin face, and two overhangs with really good rests in between.
Descent: Three rappels from bolted anchors over No Glow will get you to the ground with a single rope.
Location
This route was originally a variation to the third pitch of Android. To access it, go up first pitch of a nearby route, such as Andrew, Erect Direction, Three Vultures, or No Glow.
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