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Routes in h. The Arrow Wall - CCK

Amber Waves of Pain T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Andrew T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Android-Moby Dick link-up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Annie Oh! T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arrow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
CCK Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Cold Turkeys T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Crack' N Up T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Deep Lichen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Diana T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Verschneidung (Easy V) T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Erect Direction T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Face to Face T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Feast of Fools T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hans' Puss T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hawkeye T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jim's Gem T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Keep on Struttin' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Last Will Be First, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Limelight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lost and Found T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Man's Quest for Flight T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Moby Dick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Modern Times T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moonlight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
No Glow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nurse's Aid T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Proctor Silex T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Proctoscope T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Quiver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Red Pillar T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Silhouette T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Smilin' the Hard Way T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Steep Hikin' T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Step Lively T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Strolling on Jupiter T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Supper's Ready T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Three Doves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Vultures T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Three Vultures Direct T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Traverse of the Clods T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Twilight Zone T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c C1
Unholy Wick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Updraft T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wop Stop T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Steve Lewanik, Mark Goldman 1987
Page Views: 4,384 total, 45/month
Shared By: Tommy Ormond on Nov 21, 2009
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

From the GT ledge, start from the left side of a huge blocky pinnacle.

Description with help from Pawel: Aim towards a deeply notched overhang that is over a steep, reddish face. Start by working up through some steep face moves. Above the face, move past the first overhang (crux) to a good stance. After this, pass the next overhang by moving right, up in to the notch, over, and back left into the open book to the top.

In summary: it's a steep pumpy then thin face, and two overhangs with really good rests in between.

Descent: Three rappels from bolted anchors over No Glow will get you to the ground with a single rope.

Location

This route was originally a variation to the third pitch of Android. To access it, go up first pitch of a nearby route, such as Andrew, Erect Direction, Three Vultures, or No Glow.

Protection

Well protected, some scary face moves off the GT ledge.

Photos

Logan Schiff
Brooklyn, NY
  5.10a/b
Logan Schiff   Brooklyn, NY
  5.10a/b
I got spanked on this, spoiled by unsustsained gunks routes. Also could not figure out where the green cam fit at the bottom of the first hang - lobes seemed uneven. Backed it up with a funky #1. Small nut might have been better. They held a couple good falls...great route however. May 29, 2017
SethG  
Better than Coprophagia??!?

I agree, Amber Waves is awesome. Maybe not THE best but a contender! May 26, 2016
Alec Orenstein
Gallup, NM
 
Alec Orenstein   Gallup, NM
 
Best 10a in the Gunks. May 25, 2016
Pawel Janowski
WA
  5.9+
Pawel Janowski   WA
  5.9+
Who cares if it's 9+ or 10-? The climbing is excellent and this route should not be missed!

Gear beta: save two green or one green and one red c4 for the 1st overhang. I wouldn't have know how else to protect it. Jul 25, 2015
Tommy Ormond
Eldorado Springs, CO
 
Tommy Ormond   Eldorado Springs, CO
 
Apparently they're not into sandbagging in the gunks anymore. Weak, I think. Dec 25, 2010
Spiro
  5.10a
Spiro  
  5.10a
long reach for some... Oct 11, 2010
The crux is a very large reach to the good hold and hard for the grade (5.10a). Mar 21, 2010
Jeffrey Gagliano
Pennsburg, PA
Jeffrey Gagliano   Pennsburg, PA
The crux is pulling over the first roof and is not trivial. Perhaps the last roof might be a 9+ at the very least. The whole pitch is intimidating all the way. I've had several capable climbers follow me, and all concurred that the old rating of 9+ is a sandbag. Dec 11, 2009