Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Steve Lewanik, Mark Goldman 1987
Page Views: 4,752 total · 43/month
Shared By: Tommy Ormond on Nov 21, 2009 with updates from mnjsan
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


45 Opinions

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Description

From the GT ledge, start from the left side of a huge blocky pinnacle.

Description with help from Pawel: Aim towards a deeply notched overhang that is over a steep, reddish face. Start by working up through some steep face moves. Above the face, move past the first overhang (crux) to a good stance. After this, pass the next overhang by moving right, up in to the notch, over, and back left into the open book to the top.

In summary: it's a steep pumpy then thin face, and two overhangs with really good rests in between.

Descent: Three rappels from bolted anchors over No Glow will get you to the ground with a single rope.

Location

This route was originally a variation to the third pitch of Android. To access it, go up first pitch of a nearby route, such as Andrew, Erect Direction, Three Vultures, or No Glow.

Protection

Well protected, some scary face moves off the GT ledge.

Photos

Jeffrey Gagliano
Pennsburg, PA
Jeffrey Gagliano   Pennsburg, PA
The crux is pulling over the first roof and is not trivial. Perhaps the last roof might be a 9+ at the very least. The whole pitch is intimidating all the way. I've had several capable climbers follow me, and all concurred that the old rating of 9+ is a sandbag. Dec 11, 2009
The crux is a very large reach to the good hold and hard for the grade (5.10a). Mar 21, 2010
Spiro Spiro
  5.10a
Spiro Spiro  
  5.10a
long reach for some... Oct 11, 2010
Tommy Ormond
Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.10a
Tommy Ormond   Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.10a
Apparently they're not into sandbagging in the gunks anymore. Weak, I think. Dec 25, 2010
Pawel Janowski
WA
  5.9+
Pawel Janowski   WA
  5.9+
Who cares if it's 9+ or 10-? The climbing is excellent and this route should not be missed!

Gear beta: save two green or one green and one red c4 for the 1st overhang. I wouldn't have know how else to protect it. Jul 25, 2015
Alec Orenstein
Gallup, NM
 
Alec Orenstein   Gallup, NM
 
Best 10a in the Gunks. May 25, 2016
SethG  
Better than Coprophagia??!?

I agree, Amber Waves is awesome. Maybe not THE best but a contender! May 26, 2016
Logan Schiff
Brooklyn, NY
  5.10a/b
Logan Schiff   Brooklyn, NY
  5.10a/b
I got spanked on this, spoiled by unsustsained gunks routes. Also could not figure out where the green cam fit at the bottom of the first hang - lobes seemed uneven. Backed it up with a funky #1. Small nut might have been better. They held a couple good falls...great route however. May 29, 2017