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Routes in h. The Arrow Wall - CCK

Amber Waves of Pain T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Andrew T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Android-Moby Dick link-up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Annie Oh! T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arrow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
CCK Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Cold Turkeys T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Crack' N Up T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Deep Lichen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Diana T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Verschneidung (Easy V) T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Erect Direction T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Face to Face T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Feast of Fools T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hans' Puss T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hawkeye T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jim's Gem T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Keep on Struttin' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Last Will Be First, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Limelight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lost and Found T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Man's Quest for Flight T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Moby Dick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Modern Times T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moonlight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
No Glow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nurse's Aid T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Proctor Silex T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Proctoscope T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Quiver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Red Pillar T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Silhouette T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Smilin' the Hard Way T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Steep Hikin' T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Step Lively T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Strolling on Jupiter T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Supper's Ready T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Three Doves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Vultures T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Three Vultures Direct T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Traverse of the Clods T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Twilight Zone T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c C1
Unholy Wick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Updraft T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wop Stop T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Dick Williams, Roy Kligfield, Kevin Bein
Page Views: 366 total · 12/month
Shared By: Andy Weinmann on Aug 10, 2015
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

I'm focusing on only P2 of this climb as the Williams guide doesn't recommend P1. This is a good option if the other classics on Arrow wall are occupied or you're looking for a new challenge up there. Be solid at the grade and comfortable on borderline R terrain at 5.6/7; the crux is on good gear.

(P1 starts by the Red Pillar block and works up the right side of the pillar and then the steep white face above past small overhangs and a small right-facing corner. Not recommended. Ascend to the GT ledge another way!)

From the start on the GT ledge, move up past a few blocks (possible gear) to gain the face and a cam placement. Move up the slab on 5.6/5.7 terrain that is PG13/R and gain a stance at your next placement. Make fun, balancey moves to continue up and move into the small alcove/pod stance. Plug some good gear here (small nut, green C3) then work up the steep slabby face (crux...reachy) to easier terrain and the top. Walk back and make an anchor on a tree.

Descend via the Arrow or Annie Oh! bolt lines to the north (climbers' right).

Location

On the GT ledge, locate a clean streak through the lichen to the right of Snake's P2 (which is the big corner) and left of Red Pillar P2. There's a small cluster of trees on the left end of the GT Ledge that make for a good anchor.

Protection

Nothing larger than 2". C3s and small nuts helpful.

Photos

Phil Tatti
Saratoga Springs
  5.8 R
Phil Tatti   Saratoga Springs
  5.8 R
Got on this thinking it was the second pitch of Red Pillar as well. It didn't take me long to realize that this definitely wasn't 5.5. I'd say that the first half is probably R (until you get to the first big horizontal) and the second half is PG13. A funky but surprisingly good nut placement is possible after the crux. This ended up being my first 5.8 (accidentally) so it was a bit scary to say the least but my second said it was pretty fun! Not sure if I'll go back for seconds... Jun 6, 2016
Pitch 1 is covered with lichen and not climbable in its current condition. Unfortunate; it's nice face climbing. Oct 16, 2015
Eric Lutz  
 
On P2 of this route I learned that bringing a guidebook is important.... because we thought we were on P2 of Red Pillar! Oct 7, 2015