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Routes in h. The Arrow Wall - CCK

Amber Waves of Pain T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Andrew T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Android-Moby Dick link-up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Annie Oh! T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arrow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
CCK Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Cold Turkeys T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Crack' N Up T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Deep Lichen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Diana T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Verschneidung (Easy V) T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Erect Direction T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Face to Face T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Feast of Fools T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hans' Puss T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hawkeye T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jim's Gem T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Keep on Struttin' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Last Will Be First, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Limelight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lost and Found T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Man's Quest for Flight T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Moby Dick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Modern Times T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moonlight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
No Glow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nurse's Aid T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Proctor Silex T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Proctoscope T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Quiver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Red Pillar T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Silhouette T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Smilin' the Hard Way T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Steep Hikin' T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Step Lively T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Strolling on Jupiter T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Supper's Ready T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Three Doves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Vultures T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Traverse of the Clods T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Twilight Zone T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c C1
Unholy Wick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Updraft T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wop Stop T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 90 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dick Williams, Joe Bridges, and Dave Craft, 1988
Page Views: 733 total, 19/month
Shared By: Sprax Lines on Oct 4, 2014
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

The roof at the top of Three Doves extends left, smooth and impenetrable, except for one big, slanting cleft. If you stare at this and imagine that an irreversible high step up into a committing lieback can get you through this break in the roof, you might be right. But to get there, you will first need to make a few face moves that are somewhat thinner and less well protected than those at the crux of Three Doves.

Climb the face past a grassy horizontal and right of a tall block that sits on a ledge. Trend right past an overhang and belay at the tree (40'), or sling it and continue upward past a smaller tree. From this second tree, climb straight up to a small crack and then to the cleft in the roof. There is more than one way to pull through the overhang. Another move or two and you are on top.

Location

On the GT ledge somewhere (anywhere) between Red Pillar's right facing corner and P2 of Three Doves. If you want to climb it as one pitch, you might want to pick out a direct line to the obvious cleft in the overhang at the top. (Which way will you go around the little trees?) Rap from Three Doves or another nearby climb.

Protection

Standard rack up to 3". Tri-cams may be helpful for the steep upper section of the face before the roof.

Photos

BD C3 000 is pretty clutch for the upper face. standard rack otherwise. great route, deserves more traffic. Oct 7, 2016
Meg Grega
Holtsville, NY
 
Meg Grega   Holtsville, NY
 
This is a decent climb that usually doesn't get a lot of traffic because of neighboring routes. I found the crux of p2 harder then 5.9+ because there were virtually no feet, I think at one point there may have been a small hold that's gotten worn down. Jun 18, 2015
Jeffrey Dunn    
 
If approaching from the right (i.e. the start of the second pitch of Three Doves) you may want two #3's. My only time up the route I used one in a horizontal down low, and I would have been a lot happier with a second one, instead of a tipped out #2 way down and right of the cleft. Haven't gone back to see what trickery might be able to protect down low without using a big cam. Oct 9, 2014