Type: Trad, 90 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dick Williams, Joe Bridges, and Dave Craft, 1988
Page Views: 878 total · 17/month
Shared By: Sprax Lines on Oct 4, 2014
Admins: JSH

You & This Route

12 Opinions

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The roof at the top of Three Doves extends left, smooth and impenetrable, except for one big, slanting cleft. If you stare at this and imagine that an irreversible high step up into a committing lieback can get you through this break in the roof, you might be right. But to get there, you will first need to make a few face moves that are somewhat thinner and less well protected than those at the crux of Three Doves.

Climb the face past a grassy horizontal and right of a tall block that sits on a ledge. Trend right past an overhang and belay at the tree (40'), or sling it and continue upward past a smaller tree. From this second tree, climb straight up to a small crack and then to the cleft in the roof. There is more than one way to pull through the overhang. Another move or two and you are on top.


On the GT ledge somewhere (anywhere) between Red Pillar's right facing corner and P2 of Three Doves. If you want to climb it as one pitch, you might want to pick out a direct line to the obvious cleft in the overhang at the top. (Which way will you go around the little trees?) Rap from Three Doves or another nearby climb.


Standard rack up to 3". Tri-cams may be helpful for the steep upper section of the face before the roof.


Jeffrey Dunn    
If approaching from the right (i.e. the start of the second pitch of Three Doves) you may want two #3's. My only time up the route I used one in a horizontal down low, and I would have been a lot happier with a second one, instead of a tipped out #2 way down and right of the cleft. Haven't gone back to see what trickery might be able to protect down low without using a big cam. Oct 9, 2014
Meg Grega
Holtsville, NY
Meg Grega   Holtsville, NY
This is a decent climb that usually doesn't get a lot of traffic because of neighboring routes. I found the crux of p2 harder then 5.9+ because there were virtually no feet, I think at one point there may have been a small hold that's gotten worn down. Jun 18, 2015
BD C3 000 is pretty clutch for the upper face. standard rack otherwise. great route, deserves more traffic. Oct 7, 2016