Type: Trad, 270 ft, 3 pitches
FA: P1: A. Long, R. Kligfield, J. Kingston, A. Rubin 1977 P2,3: B. Richardson and I. Rezucha 1975
Page Views: 8,485 total · 63/month
Shared By: Ross Fadely on Jan 10, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route

71 Opinions

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A great and underrated route. The last pitch will not disappoint.

P1- Climb up an easy, unprotected face. Up slightly right to the back left to a clean face and nice climbing. Make a belay at the GT.

P2- Walk left 40 feet to the right side of the block. Climb up this and diagonal right across the face. Up to the left-facing corner at the roof. Hand traverse right to the face and go up for a belay below a small V-notch.

P3- A bit of everything. Climb through the notch immediately into the nice, strenuous crack. After a short stance, climb up to a thin fingertip horizontal. From here, make the wild traverse out along the crack to the edge of an overhang. Crank through these to the trees. What a pitch!


40 feet right of Three Vultures at a concave face. Begin at the left side, just left of a very shallow right-facing, right-arching corner.

Descent: Three rappels from bolted anchors over No Glow will get you to the ground with a single rope.


Standard rack. Micronuts/cams and one 4" unit may be helpful but not necessary.


AMAZING LAST 2 PITCHES. Do not miss this climb. The first 30 feet are unprotected easy climbing, but then... oh baby... you get a awesome feet cutin' roof traverse, follow that up with a crack crux directly above an overhang (think CCK but with more exposure), and then a fantastic finale through a wild traverse and overhanging roof. Oct 15, 2010
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
The last bit of the last pitch, 5.9 angling left to the top, was first done by John Stannard as as hard finishing variation to Three Vultures. Oct 16, 2010
Wakefield, RI
Ksween   Wakefield, RI
What does the crux crack on the third pitch look like? I ended up going through this notch on a finger sized layback crack/flake. Didnt exactly feel like 10b at the gunks. Was I off route? Anyone have pics? Nov 8, 2011
Stone Ridge, NY
lucander   Stone Ridge, NY
Crux on p. 3 is right off the belay, a butt scum in a small right facing corner with fingers in a thin crack. This leads up through easier terrain, then either (1) break left on a pencil thin finger traverse and bust through the roofs or go 15 degrees right and break through the roofs there. Both options seem hard for 5.10 Apr 10, 2012
The crux of P3 is almost directly over the crux traverse of P2 (slightly to the left actually) and is a butt scum into a thin seam which eventually becomes thin hands/stacked fingers. After this I traversed a few feet right, then angled back left on a fingertip (green alien) traverse into space, then powered through some big roofs to some stacked flakes. The Trapps App lists these flakes as loose but they felt pretty secure to me. Outrageous route that deserves to be counted in with the best 10s in the gunks. May 11, 2015
Pawel Janowski   WA
P2 is asthetic, easy to read and very well protected. I'd recommend it as a good entry level 5.10 gunks roof. Jun 15, 2015
New York, NY
TheGabernator   New York, NY
(i) We linked p2 and p3 as described here. Lots of climbing but the rope drag wasn't too heinous. I suggest linking.
(ii) I found a #3 BD stopper (tiny, blue these days) invaluable at the triangular notch roof-let crux at the start of what is described as p3 here. The placement is in the seam/crack on the left side of the notch. It made the roof-let significantly less intimidating. Maybe TMI, but I reckon it's good to know about in advance; it's not an obvious placement.
(iii) Small cams (.4 and lower) useful for p3.
(iv) This route is *money* for sure. It packs quite a lot of climbing in the 100 feet between the GT ledge and the clifftop. Sep 25, 2016
I am curious that two of you describe the beginning of P3 as a "butt scum." I've done this climb twice and it never occurred to me to do it that way... I would describe it as small crimps for the hands and delicate footwork for a couple of moves. Jun 26, 2017
Nicola Masciandaro
Brooklyn, NY
Nicola Masciandaro   Brooklyn, NY
a more direct finish, up the wide crack (with bush) and out small roof, looks possible Oct 31, 2017
Brooklyn, NY
bridge   Brooklyn, NY
Is it just me or is this one pretty spicy? Wiggled in a couple brassies at the 'notch' but had to climb well above them before getting enough of a stance to place a piece. Ripping the brassies and falling on to the cam below would be quite a ride... Aug 21, 2018