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Routes in h. The Arrow Wall - CCK

Amber Waves of Pain T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Andrew T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Android-Moby Dick link-up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Annie Oh! T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arrow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
CCK Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Cold Turkeys T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Crack' N Up T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Deep Lichen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Diana T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Verschneidung (Easy V) T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Erect Direction T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Face to Face T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Feast of Fools T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hans' Puss T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hawkeye T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jim's Gem T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Keep on Struttin' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Last Will Be First, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Limelight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lost and Found T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Man's Quest for Flight T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Moby Dick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Modern Times T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moonlight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
No Glow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nurse's Aid T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Proctor Silex T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Proctoscope T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Quiver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Red Pillar T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Silhouette T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Smilin' the Hard Way T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Steep Hikin' T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Step Lively T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Strolling on Jupiter T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Supper's Ready T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Three Doves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Vultures T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Three Vultures Direct T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Traverse of the Clods T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Twilight Zone T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c C1
Unholy Wick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Updraft T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wop Stop T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 230 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bill Ryan, Willie Crowther, 1960
Page Views: 11,651 total, 81/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Mar 7, 2006 with updates
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


163 Opinions

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Description

This is a delightful 5.6, almost as nice as Madame G's or High E. The crux is as exciting as any 5.6 in the Gunks.

The first pitch is easy to locate: Use the same access trail as for CCK, just past the Andrew boulder. At the top of the access trail you'll see an obvious crack/corner system leading straight up. This is about 35' left of the huge Erect Direction corner.

P1: Climb up the face just right of an overhang and head for an obvious anchor on some small trees. Then follow the corner up to the GT Ledge. 5.5, 130'. Alternatively, you can start by climbing the crack behind the flake to the left, at 5.7+R, then continuing up the left-facing corner.

P2: Move right on the GT Ledge about 40' (this is the same as the start of the 2nd pitch of Erect Direction) and climb up, diagonaling left, towards a large roof. Once you reach the base of the overhang, look for a fixed pin to the left and place a nut or two to back it up. Now, the crux: cower left, down and around the corner to a stance. This is all balance - no big jugs to save your ass until it's over. Then up through a nice finger crack to the final corner (easier on the right-hand wall) and the top. 5.6, 100'.

If your second falls at the crux, lowering to the GT Ledge may be your only way to get back onto the rock.

Descent: there is a bolted rappel line fairly close to the south, starting with a fixed cable then rappels from bolted anchors, over No Glow, which will get you to the ground with a single rope.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack
David
 
David  
 
This route is every bit as exhilarating as High E; don't hesitate to get on it if High E has a line. I likewise found the crux to be heady (thin, exposed) and hard to find gear for. I got in a black tricam after the piton, and you might be able to get tiny nuts in some seams, but you are pretty far out from your last bomber piece before the piton. Sep 21, 2017
Optimistic
New Paltz
Optimistic   New Paltz
I think it's pretty reasonable to call the traverse on p2 R-rated. You're probably 12 feet from your last piece by the time you finish stepping around the corner, and the rock all along the traverse (ie the rock keeping your small to medium wires in place) is pretty fragile looking. Great route though!

One thought,if you think your second is going to have trouble or need coaching, various belays can be set just beyond the traverse. Just be sure that the second has a good directional after the traverse if you belay over in the corner (which is the base of the Gottlieb finish to Keep on Struttin and is a great pitch too, but 5.9). Belaying here is a nice way to enjoy all the exposure up there too. Apr 29, 2017
Molly Zhu
New york
 
Molly Zhu   New york
 
Double rope can not reach the ground from rap station Apr 10, 2017
B. L.
 
B. L.  
 
Awesome climb and scary traverse. I'd say the traverse moves are mentally but not physically challenging. It's not a pumpy climb.

You are unlikely to see the piton protecting the crux until you are just about to make the traverse moves to the corner. It sticks up above a small ledge for your hands. I placed a .3 x4 above it to the right. Pro is a little hard to find around there.

Once you get around the corner there are good feet where you can hangout and regain your composure. I had bad rope drag once I got around the corner - to a stupid extent near the top. Might go without saying, but do what you can to minimize rope drag. Aug 22, 2016
Ben Hoste
Brooklyn, NY
 
Ben Hoste   Brooklyn, NY
 
Thanks Seth! It looks awesome. Apr 24, 2016
SethG  
Yes that's P3 of Keep on Struttin'. Apr 20, 2016
Ben Hoste
Brooklyn, NY
 
Ben Hoste   Brooklyn, NY
 
Once you pop around the corner and before you start up the hand crack there is a beautiful right facing corner to your left that would be nice to layback. What climb is this corner part of? Is it part of Keep on Struttin? Apr 19, 2016
Rob D.
Brooklyn, NY
 
Rob D.   Brooklyn, NY
 
If you are confident in the grade, I strongly recommend doing the 5.7+ version of pitch 1. A big cam will make it pg, or some thoughtful extending and climbing makes it pg-13.

The new rappel on No Glow is quite close to the top of the climb. Walk climbers left about 30ft. Apr 12, 2016
Systematic  
 
A really high quality climb. P1 start to the left of the flake is ~5.7/7+. Big gear useful. May be a better idea to start on the face to the right.

P2 is fantastic. Thoughtful, delicate moves combined with gunks big air. The only reason to not do this climb would be having an inexperienced or easily spooked follower.

Gear beta for P2: Many good nut placements of all sizes. I found offsets particularly useful. Cams up to #1 C4. Oct 5, 2015
Tony Lopez   NJ
Don't know what I was thinking trying to OS p1 in wet conditions, in the dark, in approach shoes. Starting up into the flake off the ledge had me spooked. After getting my climbing shoes, #3 and #4 cams from the ground, I was a bit more confident. Long, fun corner after the crux. Williams has it at 5.6PG. The variation, similar to the description on this page, is 5.2G. Apr 3, 2014
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
  5.7
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
  5.7
The second pitch is stunning. Airy climbing on marble-white rock. The crux traverse is really just a move or two (if in doubt, make another move left) and then comes more nice 5.6 climbing up a little crack. The thing that makes this little route is that looking up off the GT ledge it just appears so unlikely---but it's all there. Sep 18, 2013
kenr  
A #4 camalot (or two) could be useful for the P1 crux off the first big ledge. The non-positive moves keep coming for longer than you'd expect for a Gunks 6. Both ledge-hit and swing-hit potential? It's a bit of shock the first thing in the morning. (If you just want to focus on the semi-famous situations of P2, consider leading P1 of Updraft, since most of the rest of Moonlight P1 is fairly easy anyway).

If you only have one #4, consider placing it for the first move into the P1 traverse, then moving it (to reduce ledge-hit + swing-hit potential on the later moves?)

P2 (as gblauer points out) could be a big swing for the leader near the end of the traverse. With a single rope, the exposure might continue for the next thoughtful moves after the P2 traverse -- if the leader refrains from placing pro to avoid exposing the follower to substantial swing. Double-ropes on P2 might help reduce rope drag. Sep 6, 2013
A.wilk Wilk
Olympia, WA
  5.6
A.wilk Wilk   Olympia, WA
  5.6
This is a great climb from the ground up. P1 is one of those long pitches that just keeps giving. Great holds, moves, and gear all the way to the GT ledge. Then P2 starts the real fun. Some easy climbing up to the roof. The incredible traverse to follow. And then when you think you are in the clear you get some more tricky moves all the way to the top. Jun 13, 2013
P2 can totally rival High-E. A totally different climb, but yet similar. The crux is at the point with the most exposure and same level of exposure like High-E. Just a beautiful, classic climb. Only your last piece is terribly far away at the crux. Spicy for sure ...
Even P1 is worth doing on its own - WAY better than P1 of High-E. Good pitch to put a new 5.5 leader on since it's easy to protect Apr 30, 2013
Benjaminadk
San Pedro, California
 
Benjaminadk   San Pedro, California
 
i havent found a spicier 5.6 at the gunks. Not sure how the first pitch is only 5.5. getting started isn't that easy is it??? and the traverse on the second pitch is a boxer checker for sure. i snuck a purple c4 low to back up the pin but it still felt like it was a while before i got something else in. this is a sleeper classic climb. get on it and get scared. Apr 4, 2013
Kurtz
 
Kurtz  
 
Holy Guacamole, Batman! That is a spicy great 5.6! The start of P1 is much tougher than it looks, but P2 is the bomb. The rock looks suspect at first but improves. The pro is there but you have to really look and be creative. Routefinding becomes obvious as you go (Eliminate the impossible; what's left, no matter how scary, is the route). Note that the piton cannot be seen from below. Stepping around the arĂȘte is a real eye-opener. Good feet and I found just enough hands to avoid incontinence. But wait! There's more fun ahead! Nov 6, 2012
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
 
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
 
Damn fun second pitch! Oct 18, 2012
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
I find this a somewhat serious climb for a 5.6. If you blow the traverse on P2, you are looking at an ugly fall back into the corner. The crack is beautiful, though. Jun 20, 2012
doligo
  5.6
doligo  
  5.6
A must do 5.6 in the Gunks. If you think after you clear the traverse, the hardest part is over, you'd be up for some rude awakening. The climb keeps on giving for all 100' of it. Don't forget your pink tricams and stoppers. Exciting lead! Apr 26, 2010
T Roper
DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
 
T Roper   DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
 
we climbed a really wet first pitch of CCK and walked over and did Moonlight P2, next time I'll do first pitch of Erect Direction to get to it. great climb! Oct 30, 2009
GMBurns
  5.7 PG13
GMBurns  
  5.7 PG13
P2 has some of the best climbing I've done in the Gunks. The traverse is well exposed and committing, and so is the face / crack at the top.

I found the first pitch to not be that great, but P2 makes this definitely worth it. Aug 12, 2008
Spiro
 
Spiro  
 
great climb, same level as Madame G and just as much fun. Good beta about staying low thru traverse. Easy route to find while climbing. I would give it 3 stars if I could figure out how. Nov 16, 2007
losbill
  5.6
losbill  
  5.6
Fabulous climb. The P2 business features beautiful rock, nice moves with outstanding exposure and position. I am just not very good at this star thing. In terms of exposure (and feeling exposed) and moves I think Moonlight has it over High E. However I guess it it the truly airy aspect (position) of High E's P3 that gets it the 4th star.

If High E is busy, don't hesitate to do Moonlight. I don't think you will be disappointed. May 30, 2007
Michel
Montreal, Quebec
Michel   Montreal, Quebec
This is such a thought-provoking climb. Thoughts that were provoked: man, how do I start off? Do I follow that arch? Where's the damned piton? Oh crap, I'm slipped, will that piton hold?
In other words, great climb. Mar 5, 2007
Adam Catalano
Albany, New York
 
Adam Catalano   Albany, New York
 
Absolutely a classic climb. Tops High E in my opinion. Stay low through the crux. The crux arete move is a good distance from your last piece, so keep your head about you. Apr 30, 2006