Type: Trad, 230 ft (70 m), 2 pitches
FA: Bill Ryan, Willie Crowther, 1960
Page Views: 18,654 total · 84/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Mar 7, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

This is a delightful 5.6, almost as nice as Madame G's or High E. The crux is as exciting as any 5.6 in the Gunks.

The first pitch is easy to locate: Use the same access trail as for CCK, just past the Andrew boulder. At the top of the access trail you'll see an obvious crack/corner system leading straight up. This is about 35' left of the huge Erect Direction corner.

P1: Climb up the face just right of an overhang and head for an obvious anchor on some small trees. Then follow the corner up to a bolted belay at the GT Ledge. 5.5, 130'. Alternatively, you can start by climbing the crack behind the flake to the left, at 5.7+R, then continuing up the left-facing corner.

P2: Move right on the GT Ledge about 40' (this is the same as the start of the 2nd pitch of Erect Direction) and climb up, diagonaling left, towards a large roof. Once you reach the base of the overhang, look for a fixed pin to the left and place a nut or two to back it up. Now, the crux: cower left, down and around the corner to a stance. This is all balance - no big jugs to save your ass until it's over. Then up through a nice finger crack to the final corner (easier on the right-hand wall) and the top. 5.6, 100'.

If your second falls at the crux, lowering to the GT Ledge may be your only way to get back onto the rock.

Descent: there is a bolted rappel line fairly close to the south, starting from the chains over No Glow, which will get you to the ground with a single rope.

Protection Suggest change

Standard Gunks rack