Mountain Project Logo

Suggested Page Improvements to Moonlight


Kurtz
Nov 5, 2014
The rappel station on No Glow is a big metal cable attached to some trees. Two ropes are required to reach the ground.

Also, better descriptions of the P1 start options would be helpful:

Easier: climb the face on the flake (right side). 5.5
Harder: follow the big crack behind the flake (left side) 5.7ish
I'm not sure if one can pull the roof onto the flake like the guy in the "Starting Moonlight" pic seems to be doing.

Kurtz
Nov 6, 2014
Hi JSH! One more thing...

The P1 Description now reads "Alternatively, you can start by climbing the crack behind the TREE to the left".

I think you meant "Alternatively, you can start by climbing the crack behind the FLAKE to the left".

I'll try to get a good pic of the start next time I'm out there.

Thanks!
Kurt

A Jesse Jiryu Davis
Sep 15, 2022
Description Suggestion

This is a delightful 5.6, almost as nice as [[Madame G's]]105799697 or [[High E]]105798994. The crux is as exciting as any 5.6 in the Gunks.


The first pitch is easy to locate: Use the same access trail as for [[CCK]]105801065, just past the Andrew boulder. At the top of the access trail you'll see an obvious crack/corner system leading straight up. This is about 35' left of the huge [[105799041]] corner.


P1: Climb up the face just right of an overhang and head for an obvious anchor on some small trees. Then follow the corner up to a bolted belay at the GT Ledge. 5.5, 130'. Alternatively, you can start by climbing the crack behind the flake to the left, at 5.7+R, then continuing up the left-facing corner.


P2: Move right on the GT Ledge about 40' (this is the same as the start of the 2nd pitch of [[105799041]]) and climb up, diagonaling left, towards a large roof. Once you reach the base of the overhang, look for a fixed pin to the left and place a nut or two to back it up. Now, the crux: cower left, down and around the corner to a stance. This is all balance - no big jugs to save your ass until it's over. Then up through a nice finger crack to the final corner (easier on the right-hand wall) and the top. 5.6, 100'.


If your second falls at the crux, lowering to the GT Ledge may be your only way to get back onto the rock.


Descent: there is a bolted rappel line fairly close to the south, starting from the chains over [[No Glow]]105811547, which will get you to the ground with a single rope.

Welcome

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started