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Routes in h. The Arrow Wall - CCK

Amber Waves of Pain T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Andrew T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Android-Moby Dick link-up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Annie Oh! T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arrow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
CCK Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Cold Turkeys T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Crack' N Up T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Deep Lichen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Diana T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Verschneidung (Easy V) T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Erect Direction T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Face to Face T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Feast of Fools T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hans' Puss T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hawkeye T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jim's Gem T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Keep on Struttin' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Last Will Be First, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Limelight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lost and Found T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Man's Quest for Flight T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Moby Dick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Modern Times T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moonlight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
No Glow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nurse's Aid T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Proctor Silex T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Proctoscope T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Quiver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Red Pillar T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Silhouette T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Smilin' the Hard Way T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Steep Hikin' T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Step Lively T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Strolling on Jupiter T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Supper's Ready T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Three Doves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Vultures T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Traverse of the Clods T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Twilight Zone T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c C1
Unholy Wick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Updraft T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wop Stop T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Rich Romano & Russ Raffa - 1977
Page Views: 6,988 total, 49/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Feb 21, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

Nurse's Aid in a nice climb that launches up the wall just left of Feast of Fools. The face below the roof is challenging -- there is a scary section in an orange plaque of rock that is very difficult to protect. From here, step left and continue up and through the massive roof. Considering Gunks grades, I found this roof to be quite reasonable at 5.10c. The pitch stops at the GT Ledge.

The second pitch continues up a left-facing overhanging corner system, but loose rock and lackluster climbing detract from its quality.

Protection

Standard Rack.
SethG  
Lots of potentially loose rock on Pitch 2, and some of it is truly loose. Be careful. But the last part of the pitch is amazing. Once I figured out the move it seemed 10a was fair. Dec 5, 2016
Connor F-M
Lafayette, CO
5.10
Connor F-M   Lafayette, CO
5.10
Absolutely do pitch 2. There is a reason why most of the pictures on here are of that top pitch. I felt like pitches 1 and 2 are pretty similar in difficulty. The R-rated part is very height dependent, in that if you have some height on you the route is PG at worst. Jun 15, 2016
Simon Thompson
New Paltz, NY
  5.10b/c PG13
Simon Thompson   New Paltz, NY
  5.10b/c PG13
I climbed this onsight and without any gear beta... Provided for a pretty intense experience! There is a large band of crap rock below the runout face on the first pitch. When this inevitably falls off the wall I hope nobody is around! I found the left side of the shit band to be the most stable. Used a sideways .4 in the slot a foot above the finger lock to protect the face: three good lobes and one flaring. Roof is mostly big holds with a reachy crux bump off a crimper rail.

Pitch two is a little tricky in terms of route finding. Basically go up some overhanging corner systems above the belay, following some cracks to a rectangular notch with a wedged block. Make an awkward move up into the notch and then move straight up to a stance at the beginning of the traverse. A #3 is ideal and you can bump it out around the corner to protect you and your second. If you have big enough hands/arms you can get bomber jams as you stand up to make the froggy mantle. Really fun climb with good enough gear and rests to be pretty reasonable at the grade. Nov 6, 2014
matthew nauman   cohoes
The 1st pitch seemed easy for a 5.10c but the 2nd pitch seemed much harder then the 1st for me. I don't know how that hand traverse is only 5.10a if the 1st pitch is 5.10c. May 5, 2014
Awesome route from bottom to top. The first pitch is great stuff pulling through the roofs.

The second pitch was my first 5.10a at the Gunks and wow! The technical crux of the pitch for me was 15 feet or so below the hand traverse, but the traverse was definitely the mental crux. A number 2 camalot was the largest piece I had, which still worked but I really would have appreciated a #3. It didn't really have any chalk on the second pitch so I was constantly wondering if I was on route and if there would be holds/pro around the next corner. May 21, 2012
Colin R
Ottawa, ON
  5.10c R
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
  5.10c R
Solid 10c

In spite of being told I could protect the blank face below the roof, I have no idea how you would place any decent gear at the runout section (and believe me I tried). Sure you can get a flared cam with a couple lobes scratching the sides of hold you need to do the move or you can just run it out through the techie face to the jug (why even bother with gear?) - keep your eyes peeled here for hidden crimps just before the jug and hidden feet to your side. DO NOT FORGET to bring purple/grey metolius and/or purple/blue alien (i.e. tiny gear) to protect the traverse just after the techie runout - that was a "Thank God" moment for me and helped me keep my cool to send the route. Apr 29, 2012
stredna
PA
stredna   PA
Don't Read if you dont want just a hint of beta; anyone climbing with a "standard Gunks Rack" can protect the scary part! Jul 23, 2010
Spiro
  5.10c PG13
Spiro  
  5.10c PG13
I have specific gear beta if anyone wants it for the run out section. Jun 19, 2010
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Ok, I seconded this climb and found the transition from the little corner out onto the traverse quite hard. I am short and felt like it was a HUGE reach to get around the nose on the traverse itself. Once there, I felt reasonably secure, as I did the traverse in frog position. I had my hands on the horizontal and my feet on the wall like a frog. Slow moving, but, it worked.

To me, this was the scariest climb I have ever done. I felt like i was going to wing off into space. I knew that if I fell on the traverse, I would never get back on the wall. Sep 13, 2009
I agree, Paul. I think Josh might have traversed off the second pitch a little early, underneath the great crack, without knowing what he was missing. It would be easy to do because it's invisible from below and an unlikely line. I can't imagine anyone would describe that traverse as "lackluster." Aug 6, 2009
paulmadry
  5.10b PG13
paulmadry  
  5.10b PG13
Great 2nd pitch. Do not miss it. Stay on the overhanging cracks 3-5 feet right of the easy corner. Fantastic finish (Blue cam helpful to protect the traverse) Aug 6, 2009