Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Jason Kahn and Joe Bridges 1987
Page Views: 1,587 total · 12/month
Shared By: Ross Fadely on Jan 11, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route

23 Opinions

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Good climbing with a nice crux and heady section up to it, that seems to always be free!

P1- Climb the short corner to the mini ledge. Step left until directly below a shallow right-facing corner under the roof. Climb this balancy section at 5.7R straight up the the little corner. Surmount the overhang and head slightly right up to a lichened, bulging face, left of the obvious crack.


15 feet up and right from Proctoscope's wide crack, atop a boulder pile just below a left-facing corner with a crack in it.


Standard rack to 2"


Don't stop after P1. You can extend the climb very nicely by finishing on P3 (5.7- PG) of Silhouette. Apr 24, 2008
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Not my favorite climb, nothing great from bottom to top. May 8, 2012
Really good pitch! It has a bit of everything, especially if you stay in the corner at the start and not cheat out onto the face to make it much easier. You start with a tough 5.9 corner with small gear. Then a fun runout 5.7/5/8 face. A well protected stout 5.9 overhang at mid height and then some more fun runout 5.7 before the nice steep finish. What's not to like?

Definitely the 5.9 lead for the solid 5.10 leader. I would not recommend this route to those starting out 5.9. May 9, 2012
I agree with David. Clean, steep, and some very engaging sections of climbing. The run-out section is close enough in difficulty to the difficulty of the crux that you should be a confident 5.9 leader before trying this. Nov 15, 2012
Jon Po
Mahwah, NJ
  5.9+ PG13
Jon Po   Mahwah, NJ
  5.9+ PG13
I thought this was an excellent climb! Great views of the directissima arete and enduroman! Very exciting lead! I wouldn't recommend this to a 5.9 leader though. It has a solid 15 or 20 foot run out about 30 feet up over 5.8ish terrain. Link this with The Traverse of the Clods and you're in for a real adventure!! Apr 17, 2015