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Routes in h. The Arrow Wall - CCK

Amber Waves of Pain T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Andrew T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Android-Moby Dick link-up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Annie Oh! T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arrow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
CCK Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Cold Turkeys T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Crack' N Up T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Deep Lichen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Diana T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Verschneidung (Easy V) T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Erect Direction T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Face to Face T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Feast of Fools T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hans' Puss T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hawkeye T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jim's Gem T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Keep on Struttin' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Last Will Be First, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Limelight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lost and Found T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Man's Quest for Flight T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Moby Dick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Modern Times T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moonlight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
No Glow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nurse's Aid T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Proctor Silex T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Proctoscope T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Quiver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Red Pillar T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Silhouette T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Smilin' the Hard Way T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Steep Hikin' T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Step Lively T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Strolling on Jupiter T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Supper's Ready T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Three Doves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Vultures T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Three Vultures Direct T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Traverse of the Clods T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Twilight Zone T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c C1
Unholy Wick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Updraft T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wop Stop T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Todd Swain, Andy Schenkel, and Randy Schenkel, 1985
Page Views: 1,360 total, 14/month
Shared By: Dana Bartlett on Oct 14, 2009
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

1. Climb the face of the pillar to a ledge at its top. It's quicker, easier, and no less (much more! - ed.) pleasant to solo up the right-facing corner on the right side of the pillar. 5.5 or 4th class, respectively, 40 feet.

2. From the right side of the ledge, go up and a bit right to several small, left-facing corners; these are 25 feet or so off the ledge. From the last of these, move over a bulge (crux) then go straight up to the GT ledge. The latest guidebook mentions mentions passing a piton; the only pin on this pitch is within arm's reach while you are standing on the ledge. 5.9, 60 feet.

3. Scramble up and left. Then move straight up the face past a small pod, pass to the left of a large flake and on to the top. 5.6, 100 feet.

Notes on P3 from kswissto:
  • Deep Lichen (left) and Steep Hikin (right) parallel each other.
  • Deep Lichen is completely clean and there is a strip of clean, white rock. Definitely PG/PG13 depending on your comfort level. Becomes more PG if you carry tricams.
  • Steep Hikin is COVERED in deep lichen and you can't see it/find it anymore.

Location

At the left end of the Arrow wall area, just before the trail goes up and then back down to Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct. Look for a dirty, broken, right-facing corner that is approximately 40 feet high.

Rappel from bolts at the clifftop over Three Doves.

Protection

Small cams

Photos

Caz Drach
Sugarhouse, UT
Caz Drach   Sugarhouse, UT
5-10-15...There is some lichen but it seems to be cleaner than what others are describing. The pin is solid to use without worry. Protects well at the crux. Great boulder move to finish with an exhilarating exit. Definitely should be climbed more. I did the Red Pillar start to Steep Hikin to Deep Lichen. May 11, 2015
Optimistic
New Paltz
Optimistic   New Paltz
Ha, yes Dana, you know I do carry a passel of small cams! But I must not have tried hard enough in the right spot...that crack seemed too shallow. I'll go back and have another go at it, some good gear there would have completely changed the game. Thanks, David. Nov 1, 2014
Dana Bartlett   CT
 
Regarding the previous comment:

Did you have small cams? I can't imagine you didn't. I have done this route 3-4 times and I always get a decent Metolius blue that is at knee level as the crux is pulled. Oct 31, 2014
Optimistic
New Paltz
Optimistic   New Paltz
Bit of an epic on this one for me!
- First pitch I found to be fairly easy but quite run out, and the climbing very much not worth the risk. I'll use the Red Pillar start next time.
- Williams gives p2 5.9G, but I wasn't able to get gear within about 10 feet of the crux move and so decided to back off after trying to climb through 6 or 7 times. The fall looked pretty safe, but longer than I liked. Have to come back for a rematch on that one!
- Wish I'd seen kswissto's comments on the 3rd pitch! We talked ourselves into believing we were on Steep Hikin', but indeed that p3 is buried very deeply in lichen, and the finish is on Deep Lichen. The crux of that pitch is reasonably well-protected, but there is a roughly 30-foot runout on 5.5ish terrain, tricams or not. Cool pitch though. Oct 29, 2014
kswissto
Boulder, CO
  5.9 PG13
kswissto   Boulder, CO
  5.9 PG13
Do Red Pillar (to the right) if you're not comfortable on Deep Lichen's run-out 5.8 climbing. Oct 13, 2014
BrianRH
Jersey City, NJ
BrianRH   Jersey City, NJ
The top pitch is really very nice and unusual for the area, but I thought it was harder than 5.6. A nice alternate if there are lines on the second pitches nearby. Maybe a decade of Gunks' roofs has ruined my slab climbing, but I found it quite stimulating as a lead with just enough gear to keep it from feeling "r". Oct 8, 2013
chewtoynj   NJ
Climbed this 2 weeks ago. The first pitch is all lichen. But the 2nd pitch is fun with a short, yet challenging little crux. There is a pin out there, but it is nearly impossible to see with all of the lichen. Apr 23, 2010