Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Todd Swain, Andy Schenkel, and Randy Schenkel, 1985
Page Views: 1,880 total · 15/month
Shared By: Dana Bartlett on Oct 14, 2009
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

1. Climb the face of the pillar to a ledge at its top. It's quicker, easier, and no less (much more! - ed.) pleasant to solo up the right-facing corner on the right side of the pillar. 5.5 or 4th class, respectively, 40 feet.

2. From the right side of the ledge, go up and a bit right to several small, left-facing corners; these are 25 feet or so off the ledge. From the last of these, move over a bulge (crux) then go straight up to the GT ledge. The latest guidebook mentions mentions passing a piton; the only pin on this pitch is within arm's reach while you are standing on the ledge. 5.9, 60 feet.

3. Scramble up and left. Then move straight up the face past a small pod, pass to the left of a large flake and on to the top. 5.6, 100 feet.

Notes on P3 from K Swissto:
  • Deep Lichen (left) and Steep Hikin (right) parallel each other.
  • Deep Lichen is completely clean and there is a strip of clean, white rock. Definitely PG/PG13 depending on your comfort level. Becomes more PG if you carry tricams.
  • Steep Hikin is COVERED in deep lichen and you can't see it/find it anymore.

Location

At the left end of the Arrow wall area, just before the trail goes up and then back down to Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct. Look for a dirty, broken, right-facing corner that is approximately 40 feet high.

Rappel from bolts at the clifftop over Three Doves.

Protection

Small cams

Photos