Avg: 1.8 from 9 votes
|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Todd Swain, Andy Schenkel, and Randy Schenkel, 1985|
|Page Views:||1,880 total · 15/month|
|Shared By:||Dana Bartlett on Oct 14, 2009|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
2. From the right side of the ledge, go up and a bit right to several small, left-facing corners; these are 25 feet or so off the ledge. From the last of these, move over a bulge (crux) then go straight up to the GT ledge. The latest guidebook mentions mentions passing a piton; the only pin on this pitch is within arm's reach while you are standing on the ledge. 5.9, 60 feet.
3. Scramble up and left. Then move straight up the face past a small pod, pass to the left of a large flake and on to the top. 5.6, 100 feet.
Notes on P3 from K Swissto:
- Deep Lichen (left) and Steep Hikin (right) parallel each other.
- Deep Lichen is completely clean and there is a strip of clean, white rock. Definitely PG/PG13 depending on your comfort level. Becomes more PG if you carry tricams.
- Steep Hikin is COVERED in deep lichen and you can't see it/find it anymore.