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Routes in g. V3 - Middle Earth

Absurdland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Alley Oop T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Badfinger T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Balrog T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beyond the Fringe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Blunderbus T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Bombs Away Dream Baby T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bullfrog T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Cakewalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cheap Thrills T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
City Streets T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Commando Rave T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Country Roads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Dat-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dis-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dry Heaves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Faithful Journey T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Galactic Hitchhikers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Gory Thumb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
J'accuse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Large Hardon Collider T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Middle Earth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Never Never Land T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Never Say Never T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Nevermore T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
On Any Monday T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Raunchy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red's Ruin T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Sente T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Set my bow in the cloud T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c A3+ X
Sheep Thrills T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Snowpatch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Talus of Powder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turdland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
V-3 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wild Horses T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Wisecrack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wonderland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Yenta TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 220 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Art Gran, John Wharton, Bob Chambers, 1956. FA (Direct P3): Art Gran, 1958. FFA (Direct P3): John Turner
Page Views: 14,686 total, 102/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Feb 27, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


152 Opinions

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Description

The third pitch direct variation of this mind-boggling route will have you wondering about Gunks ratings: how can an exposed, overhanging, pumpy hand traverse, with so-so hands and poor feet, only be rated 5.7+? It will feel like 5.9 to the first-time visitor, but the adrenaline rush and pump factor will leave you thrilled when you finish.

To approach, use the new trail for Middle Earth. If you get to the Arrow access trail, at an open area by white rocks, you've gone too far.

At the cliff, head right and look for a smooth face with 3 bolts; this is the route Sente. Thin Slabs starts in a crack 5' right of Sente; Thin Slabs Direct starts in a right-angling crack 10' farther right.

P1 (Direct): Climb the right-angling thin crack with a bouldery start. After the crack peters out, continue up and left towards a big tree with rap slings. 5.7+, 100'.

P1 (original): Climb the crack on the left, up a face past a bolt, and continue up to the big tree. 5.6R, 90'.

P2: Climb an overhang on the right, continue to a ledge, and climb a left-facing corner to another tree with rap slings. 5.5, 60'.

For the Direct finish, move the belay to a tree about 10' to the right, where you'll be in a good spot for the wild third pitch.

P3 (Direct): Climb up a left-facing corner toward the huge roof. Take a deep breath and commit to the exposed, pumpy traverse to the right. Several old pins mark the way - it's a good idea to back them up, even though it's pumpy. Exit right onto the arete (crux), and breathe a sigh of relief. Gather your marbles, and continue up the face to a tree with rap slings. "5.7+" (Gunks sandbag rating), 70'.

P3 (original): If you're not up for the excitement of the Direct finish, you can climb a chimney in a large left-facing corner on the left, and traverse right to the rap tree. 5.5, 60'.

Descent: 3 rappels from trees with slings and rings with one 60m rope.
It's also easy to walk just a bit north (right) to the bolted rappel line at Arrow.

Protection

Standard Rack. Bring some small wired nuts for the first pitch and some Screamers for the old pins on the third pitch.
Jon Po
Mahwah, NJ
 
Jon Po   Mahwah, NJ
 
^^ Son of Easy O and Bonnie's roof are definitely harder routes.. Thank god for the pins on the traverse for the direct finish. Only the second one (out of 3) looked worthy of falling on but it inspired enough confidence to keep going.. this route is all mental Oct 20, 2013
EricBacus
Germantown, NY
  5.8
EricBacus   Germantown, NY
  5.8
Found the direct traverse to be harder than any move on Bonnies Roof or Son of Easy O.
I'd call it an exposed 5.8 and you might want to question taking a weak second up. Oct 2, 2013
Kurtz
 
Kurtz  
 
The big pine on P3 is icky and sappy
and now my rope is sticky and crappy.

-The Bard Aug 23, 2013
BrianRH
Jersey City, NJ
  5.7+
BrianRH   Jersey City, NJ
  5.7+
Reclimbed this last weekend. Do the direct start on pitch 1. Link pitches one and two. Then don't skip the exciting variation for pitch 3. My approach was to get a good cam out a ways from the corner, clip the first 2 of the historic pitons and run for the end rather than wrestle in more cams... Fantastic exposure. Not a super route for your second though if they are a marginal 5.7 climber... Apr 15, 2013
Simon Thompson
New Paltz, NY
  5.8-
Simon Thompson   New Paltz, NY
  5.8-
On the third pitch variation: The individual moves aren't harder than 7+ or 8-, the handholds are huge, and there are decent feet if you look. It is, however, very pumpy to rest and place gear to protect your follower. I'm not really sure about the integrity of the pitons but there are some pretty good cam placements. Great, exciting pitch! Mar 29, 2013
Adam Fernandez
Matawan NJ
  5.8- PG13
Adam Fernandez   Matawan NJ
  5.8- PG13
I did Thin Slabs Direct, with the direct pitch one and finish and it was great. After we repelled down from the top I decided to do Sente P1 as well and found the 5.7 start to be much more inspiring and fun even though its technically easier. Aug 19, 2012
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
  5.8-
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
  5.8-
Did the Sente P1 and 5.7+ traverse finish recently. It's an okay line I suppose. The top pitch traverse was really pumpy for 5.7, so I'm also thinking it's more like a tough 8-ish with a pull-up-to-a-jug move near the arete. Mar 30, 2012
rogerbenton
  5.7+
rogerbenton  
  5.7+
Sente (5.9) followed by the direct third pitch is a money route.
"gather your marbles", indeed! Oct 27, 2011
doligo
  5.6
doligo  
  5.6
5.6 start protects pretty well with small cams, I agree it has some greasy feeling to it though... Oct 14, 2010
micah richard
Litchfield, Connecticut
micah richard   Litchfield, Connecticut
Direct p 1 very nice . locker jams and positive holds, great gear. The 5.6. start is greasy , balancy and somewhat dangerous w/ minimal gear. The 5.7 start seemed easier than the 5.6 in my opinion. Oct 14, 2010
Greg Gawel
Jackson Heights, NY
5.8- PG13
Greg Gawel   Jackson Heights, NY
5.8- PG13
I've never done standard start/finish but direct one will definitely challenge budding 5.7 leader. Apr 30, 2010
Found the 5.7 start to be better on the head than the 5.6 start

Absolutely. Mar 29, 2010
GMBurns
  5.7+ PG13
GMBurns  
  5.7+ PG13
Found the 5.7 start to be better on the head than the 5.6 start Apr 28, 2009
Mr. Malloc
  5.8 PG13
Mr. Malloc  
  5.8 PG13
A 5.7 with the exposure of a 5.11. I gotta go with 5.8 to compromise. Nov 17, 2006