Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct
Avg: 3.1 from 152 votes
Routes in g. V3 - Middle Earth
|Absurdland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Alley Oop T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Badfinger T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|Balrog T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Beyond the Fringe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X|
|Blunderbus T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R|
|Bombs Away Dream Baby T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Bullfrog T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13|
|Cakewalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Cheap Thrills T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13|
|City Streets T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Commando Rave T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|Country Roads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R|
|Dat-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Dis-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Dry Heaves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Faithful Journey T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Galactic Hitchhikers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|Gory Thumb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|J'accuse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Large Hardon Collider T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Middle Earth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Never Never Land T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Never Say Never T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X|
|Nevermore T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|On Any Monday T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Raunchy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Red's Ruin T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c|
|Sente T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Set my bow in the cloud T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c A3+ X|
|Sheep Thrills T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Snake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13|
|Snowpatch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13|
|Talus of Powder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Turdland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|V-3 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Wild Horses T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R|
|Wisecrack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Wonderland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Yenta TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Type:||Trad, 220 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Art Gran, John Wharton, Bob Chambers, 1956. FA (Direct P3): Art Gran, 1958. FFA (Direct P3): John Turner|
|Page Views:||14,686 total, 102/month|
|Shared By:||Ron Olsen on Feb 27, 2006|
DescriptionThe third pitch direct variation of this mind-boggling route will have you wondering about Gunks ratings: how can an exposed, overhanging, pumpy hand traverse, with so-so hands and poor feet, only be rated 5.7+? It will feel like 5.9 to the first-time visitor, but the adrenaline rush and pump factor will leave you thrilled when you finish.
To approach, use the new trail for Middle Earth. If you get to the Arrow access trail, at an open area by white rocks, you've gone too far.
At the cliff, head right and look for a smooth face with 3 bolts; this is the route Sente. Thin Slabs starts in a crack 5' right of Sente; Thin Slabs Direct starts in a right-angling crack 10' farther right.
P1 (Direct): Climb the right-angling thin crack with a bouldery start. After the crack peters out, continue up and left towards a big tree with rap slings. 5.7+, 100'.
P1 (original): Climb the crack on the left, up a face past a bolt, and continue up to the big tree. 5.6R, 90'.
P2: Climb an overhang on the right, continue to a ledge, and climb a left-facing corner to another tree with rap slings. 5.5, 60'.
For the Direct finish, move the belay to a tree about 10' to the right, where you'll be in a good spot for the wild third pitch.
P3 (Direct): Climb up a left-facing corner toward the huge roof. Take a deep breath and commit to the exposed, pumpy traverse to the right. Several old pins mark the way - it's a good idea to back them up, even though it's pumpy. Exit right onto the arete (crux), and breathe a sigh of relief. Gather your marbles, and continue up the face to a tree with rap slings. "5.7+" (Gunks sandbag rating), 70'.
P3 (original): If you're not up for the excitement of the Direct finish, you can climb a chimney in a large left-facing corner on the left, and traverse right to the rap tree. 5.5, 60'.
Descent: 3 rappels from trees with slings and rings with one 60m rope.
It's also easy to walk just a bit north (right) to the bolted rappel line at Arrow.