Type: Trad, Aid, 100 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: FA: Art Gran & Phil Jacobus, 1963 FFA: Russ Clune & Jordan Mills, 1993.11.23
Page Views: 4,511 total · 88/month
Shared By: Sprax Lines on Oct 6, 2014
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Russ Clune and Jordan Mill freed the roof-traverse crux at 13b in 1993, 30 years after Art Gran and Phil Jacobus aided it with pitons. Much of the gear is still fixed, or at least it was when I got on it in 2004.* It is also recommended as a good route for practicing clean aid, because it's safe but wildly exposed -- lots of hang time.

That is how I went up it, as a night-time rope solo. Finding the old fixed pieces by headlamp, often with antique 'biners hanging off them, felt like a treasure hunt. Rather than trying to clean it by rappelling and/or down-climbing, I fixed the middle of my rope (70m) at the top, descended the free end, and followed the GTL back to my ground anchor (a tree). Then I partly jugged and partly re-climbed the route, cleaning as I went, and rapped Arrow.

P1: From the GT ledge, climb the face just right of the hollow right-facing corner above P1 of Andrew, or climb inside the corner/chimney until you can traverse out and up left to the first roof section. Look for fixed gear in the crack under the huge roof looming above. Follow that crack left about 25 feet, then switch to a diagonal crack that exits the roof and goes into a small right-facing corner. Stop here to set up a hanging belay (80 feet, 5.13b G, maybe 5.6 R at the start).

P2: Go left to another right-facing corner, pull an overhang moving right, and step up to the top (25 feet, 5.9 PG).

(*YMMV of course.)

Location

Starting from the GT ledge to the right of Andrew P1, the route goes up near the hollow corner, trends left under the prominent roof. then escapes through a left-leaning diagonal crack. Cleaning the route on descent would be difficult. From the top, it's a short walk to the rap anchors on Arrow or Three Doves.

Protection

Mostly small to medium cams. If freeing it, you'll want long runners. If aiding it, you'll want to be comfortable in your stirrups or ladders.
BigA  
A key hold broke in 2009, making the route a letter grade harder. Currently, the fixed gear in the initial crux traverse should not be trusted. And despite what the above description says, there are no fixed pitons on the route, save for the anchor. Oct 7, 2014
C0, really? If C designated clean aid (it does) and otherwise parallels A ratings for (typically) hammered placements, then C0 would, according to the sources I'm familiar with, mean pulling on gear with no need for aiders. That is certainly not the case here. I know it can be easy aid up there when the pieces are all there, but then it would be C1, no? Oct 30, 2014