Avg: 3.6 from 5 votes
|Type:||Trad, Aid, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||FA: Art Gran & Phil Jacobus, 1963 FFA: Russ Clune & Jordan Mills, 1993.11.23|
|Page Views:||8,637 total · 104/month|
|Shared By:||Sprax Lines on Oct 6, 2014|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
That is how I went up it, as a night-time rope solo. Finding the old fixed pieces by headlamp, often with antique 'biners hanging off them, felt like a treasure hunt. Rather than trying to clean it by rappelling and/or down-climbing, I fixed the middle of my rope (70m) at the top, descended the free end, and followed the GTL back to my ground anchor (a tree). Then I partly jugged and partly re-climbed the route, cleaning as I went, and rapped Arrow.
P1: From the GT ledge, climb the face just right of the hollow right-facing corner above P1 of Andrew, or climb inside the corner/chimney until you can traverse out and up left to the first roof section. Look for fixed gear in the crack under the huge roof looming above. Follow that crack left about 25 feet, then switch to a diagonal crack that exits the roof and goes into a small right-facing corner. Stop here to set up a hanging belay (80 feet, 5.13b G, maybe 5.6 R at the start).
P2: Go left to another right-facing corner, pull an overhang moving right, and step up to the top (25 feet, 5.9 PG).
(*YMMV of course.)